a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
Look at all that bud though!!!!!!! Someone said your garden looks exactly like that!Almost looks like 1 side is being shaded by more fan leaves than the other
Look at all that bud though!!!!!!! Someone said your garden looks exactly like that!Almost looks like 1 side is being shaded by more fan leaves than the other
I know! Am on it.Why haven't you fixed that dead cob?
So the COB burnt up on you or the driver Shit?I know! Am on it.
Dimmed those Pro-4's down to 50-75 a cob depending on location. Those 2 next to the dead one are at 35w each. Kind've changes the spectrum too.
Still don't get why those fixtures are called "Pro-4" when it's 3 cobs? or is that the 4 COBs in a square that's the pro-4?No, Closer to 2.8. I listed the ratings at different wattages i think.
They are probably close efficiency watt/watt, electricity. After taking uniformity & spectrum into account i would expect up to 30% higher yields and prettier buds. That translates to a 30% gain in gardening efficiency. But maybe not for everyone. Im speaking about myself.
A Par meter is all the sphere i need. Growing using both technologies is also all i need for anything i talk about to be conclusive enough for me. And incase some dont know, i take it pretty seriously.
See this light top left?
That was HLG's Bar-8 contender after spectrum adjustments.
Never went into production. Prob X2 the size of a 550 up to 680w i think. View attachment 4466041
Cob burnt out. Ive hooked the driver up to the other cobs & they worked fine.So the COB burnt up on you or the driver Shit?
Remember, these 3590's were ran @ 100w. Fixture comes in at just over 400w. X4 Cob/Mono arrays would've been cool & more efficient but how to fit x4 w/o being 4' long would be tough. They are already beastly.Still don't get why those fixtures are called "Pro-4" when it's 3 cobs? or is that the 4 COBs in a square that's the pro-4?
Also, what are these blurple boards you've got hanging in front of the Pro-4's?
If its just 1 driver running each fixture and you have + & - dimming leads on your drivers, just order 100K ohm "B",Potentiometers and some 10K Ohm resistors.Cob burnt out. Ive hooked the driver up to the other cobs & they worked fine.
Remember, these 3590's were ran @ 100w. Fixture comes in at just over 400w. X4 Cob/Mono arrays would've been cool & more efficient but how to fit x4 w/o being 4' long would be tough. They are already beastly.
To high of intensity for me, made it tough to grow under them w/ low clearance. Didn't help my defficency issues.
65w a cob is a nice sweet spot on these for me in my space.
Need to buy potimeters for each one but am not sure if they're a certain kind or what? I never did get into DIY like I'd hoped to.
All high powered Grow lights should have a proper dimmer IMO.
The Burples are those Shite XB-Boards. When The Pro-4 was removed for dimming , i put 2 of them up in the mean time. I had no other lights that had soft intensity besides those. They were up for like 2 days.
On the right of those 2 however is one XB hanging above a GGW while the other GGW was under the Elite Proto. Will have to double check the wattage on that but if i remember correctly it was set to 300ish with the 6K Horizon strips added to the middle making that a 400w fixture here & the GGW under it recieved approximately 300w of that directly. The Enhanced Burple GGW had the XB-140 (210w) above it, stay white photons from the sides & 2 of the Pro-4 Cob Arrays (approximately 100w). So that was my kinda personal SBS. There were quite a few differences in structure & color. Stuff i brought up earlier here.
Will be incorporating some XB's to the Right side of the room next run to enhance whites.
Each cob has its own driver & the monos all share one.If its just 1 driver running each fixture and you have + & - dimming leads on your drivers, just order 100K ohm "B",Potentiometers and some 10K Ohm resistors.
Wire the positive, WITH THE RESISTOR, to the middle pole of the 3 and the negative to whichever pole you want to turn towards for 0%.
Do you have dimming leads on your drivers?Each cob has its own driver & the monos all share one.
Maybe i can pm you on this? Am going to order something soon. Thank you!
Idk. Will have to pick this back up next time i open one back up. Will be soon cuz i have to order Pots. & install before next run.Do you have dimming leads on your drivers?
We'll that's what I'm sayin, pots aren't gonna do jack if you don't have leads to solder them to.Idk. Will have to pick this back up next time i open one back up. Will be soon cuz i have to order Pots. & install before next run.
You are absolutely right: There still is no scientific proof that IR equals more yield.You have something other than your personal experience to support the claim that IR equals more yield?
Oh my the blind eye...You are absolutely right: There still is no scientific proof that IR equals more yield.
Where I live they are doing tests with it in greenhouses, and so far no final results. Some plants might benefit from it, others the opposite.
Same thing with UV-lights and the Emerson effect. Most of the claims are anecdotical and wishful thinking.
I disagree that he indicated it as unimportant. He pointed out that IR and UV work synergistically. My money is that a ratio of IR and UV to white light that most closely mimics the sun will be found to work best on plants. Who woulda thought?I am not saying that it does not work (or that it does work)
I am just saying that there are no scientific papers in which there is proof for it.
If there are, please give me a link.
I want to learn about it as well.
Not the video of Dr. Bruce Bugbee.
Because he is co-founder of the company Apagee and has a direct interest in selling more meters.
Previously, he indicated that far red was not important.
But since the new meters can also measure far red, he has suddenly changed his mind.
That makes me suspicious.
What are the best strips out atm?Are you willing to screw a few screws, drill a few holes and connect a few wires?
If you are, just buy 10 gen2 EB bridgelux 2'(560mm)strips, a12-15' of 3/4" angle aluminum and a 600w HLG-600H-** driver and run them all in parallel. This will cost less than $400.
Bang for your buck, build 3 of these in a 4X4,for like $300.What are the best strips out atm?
The consumers that are actually using it, demand or have a need for that Apogee, hence the beginnings of further studies.I former posts he said it was unimportant.
Recently he stars saying that it is important.
About at the same time as Apagee came with a new meter (for consumers) that can also measure FR.
That is what makes me suspicious about what he says.
For the rest I have no clue if it works or not. Can't find any scientific proofs so far.
But maybe I overlooked.
I am sorry, I wasnt trolling I was confused. When I saw 30% more efficient I thought this meant 30% electrically more efficient.Okay, now I really think you're trolling.