Heath Robinson feeding schedule. What's yours? Advanced soil growers answers prefer

Hello you all

I would like only advanced/expert soil growers to reply me, that's a bit rude and demanding but I expect a clear answer from someone who has a solid background in soil grow.I am also sorry for the possible grammar mistakes-limited vocabulary- syntaxic errors you'll may encounter reading my post, I'm not english native speaking.

I already grew a few times (6) so I have little expericence in growing in soil. What I lack now is a wider and more precise understanding of the best fertilizers schedule, the aim being to get the best yields possible.
You may have seen Heath Robinson's vertical SOG hydro grow, where he got over 2.15 gpw

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeropo...e-vertical.html

In this post he explains how he feeds his plants

-"The old nutrient solution should be drained no matter what system you use and new nutrients should be added. The reason for this is the plants use some of the available nutrients and leave others, over time if you don’t replace the nutrients you would have a build up of the salts that the plants aren’t using. Your Ec meter would tell you that the ppm was correct but the nutrient solution would have high levels of the salts that the plants weren’t using so in effect you would starve your plants."

-"Im using Vitalink nutrients.
(Fertilizer A+ next two weeks Fertilizer B+then A again 2 weeks later) for Growing purpose
(Fertilizer A+ next two weeks Fertilizer B+then A again 2 weeks later) for Blooming purpose "

-"I have found that the sufficient zone for marijuana is in the range from an Ec of 1.0 to 1.6 I personally run in at an EC of approx 1.2 and never exceed 1.4"

So that seems pretty revelant to me : plants may get used to a kind of nutrient when use for a too long period of time. So it's better to change quite often the ratio NPK. What do you think about it ?
I don't think I'm gonna use Vitalink as the A+B thing is only available for hydro.

So here are my questions

With a light mix soil + 30% worm castings + 10% bat guano + beneficial bacterias + micorrizhas and other fungies

1)Do I need to use grow fertilizers every time I water plants and then blooming fertilizers each watering too ? I read somewhere that one should give them plain water(pH 6) once every 3 watering, the reste being with nutrients. Is it true ? Is this meant to avoid plants from getting used to these fertilizers and assimilate better the latter ?

2)Do I need to use additives(molasses, carbo hydrates etc..) every time I water plants ? if not what frequency ?

3)If I use a PK booster, do I need to use it every time I water the plants or once every 2-3 watering ? If so, what frequency ?

4)Do you know a good nutrient brand that sells 2 whole different fertilizers for the veg cycle and 2 other ones for the flowering cycle (for soil systems) ?

5)One of the best breeder in the world for Heath Robinson, the owner of Positronics-Bernard Bruining- advices to raise the pH from 6.0 to 7.0 - 7.2 (soil systems) during the flowering cycle. Do you think this advice can be applied to most of easy growing indica strains, or is it the result of a particular way of breeding ?

As you can see, my questions mainly deals with nutrient feeding frequency.
I'm waiting for your answers
Thank you very much in advance.
Have fun
++

forget heath if your going soil he is the hydro man . now you need to google subcools super soil . totally organic mix you make with guano bat castings lime etc etc . i was no expert on soil until i read all of this mans post . once mixed all you do is add water!!!!! produces biggest tightest buds but more importantly it produces FLAVOR that you cant get in hydro

-"The old nutrient solution should be drained no matter what system you use and new nutrients should be added. The reason for this is the plants use some of the available nutrients and leave others, over time if you don’t replace the nutrients you would have a build up of the salts that the plants aren’t using. Your Ec meter would tell you that the ppm was correct but the nutrient solution would have high levels of the salts that the plants weren’t using so in effect you would starve your plants."

Click to expand...

I believe what he means is...

Say you fill your resivoir with nutes of a NPK of 7-7-7 for your veg stage... its well known that in the veg stage your plants use alot a N... so your plants will use all the N in the water and leave the P and K.... so as you check your res for ppm and ph, you notice your ppm is getting low so you adjust with the 7-7-7 fertilizer... only your not adding to an even ratio because your plants have been using almost all N and little P and K, so before you adjusted your water was compromised of say 1-6-6.... adventually if you dont change out your res you are going to have a build up of those salts hes talking abt, the p and k and your going to be all out of wack... so change your res solution often...

Seem like u have a good soil mix started, just ad perlite for aeration(30%), and domilite lime at 1cup per gallon. Organic soil get acidic after bacterias break down organic matters. U also need the added Ca that gets washed away when leaching often along with K. All major brands nuts will work find, I find Botanicare PureBlendPro tastes and has best flavor. I now only use worm tea exclusively for base on both veg and bloom and add my prune juice for the organic PK13/15 substitue. Good ol walmart 100% prune juice has 15% potassium along with high content of phosporous, Mg, and other micro nuts. My worm tea also has a lot of K because I feed my worms a lot of bananas so the potassium that's easiest for plants to absorb. U can emulate nature but not duplicate it. Plants are specifically degigned by nature for nature. How u think those farmer johns grow those monstrous freak of nature veggies. This is why organic is growing like wildfire, literally. 14 yrs of growing since I voted for 215 and 30 yrs of family ag business has taught me that most nut makers in this special market is not honest with their info, especially with the low or no N for bloom, and low P and high N for veg. As u can see, they only tell u part of the truth so they can sell u other parts and also break down the nhk to different ratios to use along with other supplements for more additives. I'm not saying all nuts are scams but a lot of them sure are. Carboload for 20bucks when blackstrap mollass cost 3.50 and the 20 amino acids and b-complex supplements are a few bucks a bottle of 100. Be rest assured these are "food grade", and "pharmaceutical-grade ingredients" as they advertised in their products.

For faster growth and yield, u can drill more holes like 10-15, 1/8" holes along the sides and bottom of a 5gal buc for example for faster aeration so u can push the plant more by giving weaker solution every watering and keep roots from salt damage. A trick known for years by master growers that has recently been marketed. Hats off for them for the brilliant marketing.. By the way, LED's does work and yield superior produce than HID. The yiedl is deffinitely equal or greater in same watt comparison, just not like the 1/4 - 1/3 wattage of HID's. I'm not trying to sell any lights, just making my test experience with most of the major name high-power from 200-900w monsters that will throw 30k+lums at 12inch which makes it bout 60k+ of most peak growth spectrums plants uses. And yes, they do produce donks. lol. Just make sure u research needed spectrums and actual power drawings out of a 3w quality chim from epstar, cree, bridelux, etc.. and u will be impressed with the power and hear savings. With today's top leds, u should be able to match HID at about 1/2 the wattage as long as u keep canopy lest than 15" or less. Perfect for closet or sog or scrog setup. I mentioned no led names so I hope everyone takes this a little easier. The simplicity and efficiency of it alone will sell it but the veg growth is phenomenal. The plants will actual turn the leaves towards the led's instead of HID's out of preference. Flowers are more dense and compact and visually look more attrative with shorter pistils(hairs). I use both hid and leds depending on what I want to do with the temps. HID's also makes room more humid because of extra evaporation from heat.

Sorry was typing too fast got ahead of myself. I meant the 30k+ lums u get at 15" or so from what I remember being told and verified with a light meter, and over 60k at 1inch away from canopy at 700watts with no burns. Try to do that with HID...The temp on the hottest part was 108degrees! I haven't replace my oldest high power which is bout two yrs now with any leds. U should be abled to save bout 1/2 on power which is a lot.