DIY led grow

[Positivity]

Pos, getting lost chasing threads, referring to my dimming issue, after re downloading data sheets I got the 3 methods and graphs, dah.......... I made sense of it.
It is a 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor used with a 10k pot, graph shows it starting out at 100% and as you turn the pot clockwise it drops down to 10% near 9.5 ohm's.
I thought the Vaux went to third leg, middle to Dim +, and Dim - to 1st leg (also shown as top leg) I do best with solid drawings of things. I will play and figure this out after I get a new soldering Iron,,, what model you use ?

I use this Weller...http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401122588&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

I tried two different cheaper models without the seperate power supply. This one was a night and day difference. I used to have to sit there heating the pad..the solder wouldn't stick to the pad...solder wouldn't melt to remove things...frustrating to say the least. This one is eeeaaasy. Expensive, but it should last a really long time. The cheapos die quick...so your not really saving any money.

 

[churchhaze]

From HPS. I got rid of ,2x400W HPS lamps because of a police scare a half year ago. I'm moving out of this apartment, so I have a blank slate to start with.

Unless the drivers you bought are switch mode, I can't see how you have strings longer than 170V (peak wall voltage in the US). (positivity: "my largest string is 4 cxa 3070 and 12 hyper red...179v")

Without either stepping up the A/C voltage with a transformer or using a boosting switch mode power supply, how can your longest string drop more than 170V without a voltage source that high?

Not trying to heckle here, just making sure I'm not missing something.

I've been playing around with LTSpice simulating my regulator-less plan to see what components would hypothetically light on fire. Trying to get that one simulation that lights my e-house on fire.

Converted? What are you using now?

flowering is a bit slower. Not seeing a increased yield from the longer flowering either..just a little slower growth everyday. The 730 does work nicely

The yield should be similar..got 2.5 off the first plant I pulled. The rest should be similar, maybe a bit more on the bubba if I let her finish.

The cxa 3070 run about 37v. The oslon hyper red run at about 2.6v. So my largest string is 4 cxa 3070 and 12 hyper red...179v. The other string just has 4 cxa 3070..148v.

I don't know about any alternative driving options. I just use the inventronics drivers and they've been making these builds easy and mostly trouble free. No leds have fried from normal use and no drivers have fried out yet. So I just keep using what works for me basically..

 

[Positivity]

From HPS. I got rid of ,2x400W HPS lamps because of a police scare a half year ago. I'm moving out of this apartment, so I have a blank slate to start with.

Unless the drivers you bought are switch mode, I can't see how you have strings longer than 170V (peak wall voltage in the US). (positivity: "my largest string is 4 cxa 3070 and 12 hyper red...179v")

Without either stepping up the A/C voltage with a transformer or using a boosting switch mode power supply, how can your longest string drop more than 170V without a voltage source that high?

Not trying to heckle here, just making sure I'm not missing something.

I've been playing around with LTSpice simulating my regulator-less plan to see what components would hypothetically light on fire. Trying to get that one simulation that lights my e-house on fire.

Important stuff to consider. Glad you brought this up. Not sure how 400w could overload the circuit..I guess like you said..too much volts on a string. Next time lights fire up ill check the outlet wiring and see if it's heating up for starters. Back to the drawing board

Just checked my other light that I've been running. It was 145v on my .700ma driver

 

[Positivity]

After a quick look at the datasheet. It shows specs for both 120vac and 220vac. The allowable voltage range at 1.05a is 190v. I would assume this driver is able to safely operate.

The 450ma version of this exact driver can run up to 445v. So..the driver appears to be made to run this way.

I will look further into it though..

 

[churchhaze]

Trying to drive over 170V with 170V will not cause overloading anyway, it's simply not possible. You can't drop more voltage than the power supply gives. (the voltages across the diodes in the string will add up to 170 in one way or another, assuming the supply voltage is 170). If it's supplying 190V, the string will split that in some way or another..

You don't have to worry about overloading. That can only be caused by too much current draw. It's not like that string will heat up, in fact current may be a lot lower than you designed if that's the case, because too many diodes.

Important stuff to consider. Glad you brought this up. Not sure how 400w could overload the circuit..I guess like you said..too much volts on a string. Next time lights fire up ill check the outlet wiring and see if it's heating up for starters. Back to the drawing board

Just checked my other light that I've been running. It was 145v on my .700ma driver

 

[Positivity]

"So, to rephrase your question, how many watts can a circuit deliver before it's overloaded? Most modern residential circuits are 15 or 20 amps, so we're looking at a max load of either (15A x 120V =) 1800 watts or (20A x 120V =) 2400 watts before the breaker trips. The breaker will be labeled either 15 or 20. I'm unfamiliar with old-style fuse-type circuits but I'm guessing they're also around 15 or 20 amps."

In figuring if a appliance will overload a circuit. You multiply the circuit volts and appliance draw. Which gives the watts consumed..etc.
What the driver does to achieve that I'm not sure if I need or want to know.

Hid always left me nervous..hated that feeling. I bet lots of people wouldn't grow if led wasn't an option.

 

[Positivity]

Pretty sure everything runnings as designed...at 1.05a all the numbers add up. Going 204w on a 200w driver I think is okay. I'm well within voltage specs and the wattage rating should be good for an extra 4w...there must be some leeway. I'd only worry if it was running hot..but it runs cool

Next thing I'll be doing is checking voltages and current with a multimeter. 4 or 5 lights in and I haven't used one yet. If you stay within specs, use quality parts, ground the heatsink...it just seems to run right. Just a kill a watt to check the draw..

 

[FranJan]

Thanks for the tip on the Epi 730s in the other thread Pos. Forgot all about them and Steve's. And I def like MrFlux's Tbar. When I finally get off my ass to build my COB array, I'll probably be going with his t-bar design. So how many Epis are you running for how big a space? I'm all about subtracting watts nowadays and I really want to get just enough for coverage. Actually I really should get off my ass and search some of the old threads on this but for some reason I'm less motivated when I'm home .

Also I see a lot of programmable drivers out there. I would love to use what PICO does but it's too expensive for what I'm doing but at the same time I don't want a driver collection sitting around my house because I need a new driver for every new light. What do you think of the programmable stuff like this:
http://www.trcelectronics.com/led-power-supply-programmable.shtml
If they're as efficient as regular CC/CV drivers they gotta be worth it, right? I was just wondering what you think Pos. Thanks.

 

[Positivity]

Thanks for the tip on the Epi 730s in the other thread Pos. Forgot all about them and Steve's. And I def like MrFlux's Tbar. When I finally get off my ass to build my COB array, I'll probably be going with his t-bar design. So how many Epis are you running for how big a space? I'm all about subtracting watts nowadays and I really want to get just enough for coverage. Actually I really should get off my ass and search some of the old threads on this but for some reason I'm less motivated when I'm home .

Also I see a lot of programmable drivers out there. I would love to use what PICO does but it's too expensive for what I'm doing but at the same time I don't want a driver collection sitting around my house because I need a new driver for every new light. What do you think of the programmable stuff like this:
http://www.trcelectronics.com/led-power-supply-programmable.shtml
If they're as efficient as regular CC/CV drivers they gotta be worth it, right? I was just wondering what you think Pos. Thanks.

I used 3 - 10w ledengin on mine. Just reused them from my always on 730 experiment..wanted to hit them hard. They run at 700ma so about 6.5w or something per led. 20w..probably overkill but cool seeing the bright far red sunset.

The epis won't be as strong..run at maybe 700ma 1.5w or so. I'd think 1 every 2 x 2.. Hard to say I've never used that particular one.

You could buy one big ledengin or multiple small epis.....1 ledengin 10w would probably cover a big area. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LED-Engin/LZ4-40R300/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y1kHJl487Qqny72oCEIKzh8=

Or maybe the 6w version, probably run cooler, although I haven't had a problem with my 10w on a strip...http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LED-Engin/LZ4-40R308-0000/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y4xInUYYMTeMFYpCs9DqLFs=

5w version...http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LED-Engin/LZ1-10R300/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y1kHJl487Qqnen/qilV6DPA=

The commercial "flower initiator" is only 10w and says coverage for a 8' x 8'....http://growlightsource.com/the-flower-initiator-10-watt-ip65-indoor-outdoor-grow-light/led-grow-lights/

Haven't read up on the new drivers yet. I have seen some that are incorporating wifi into the drivers. I'm waiting for those..but not until what I have give out

 

[stardustsailor]

I use this Weller...http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401122588&sr=8-1&keywords=weller soldering iron

I tried two different cheaper models without the seperate power supply. This one was a night and day difference. I used to have to sit there heating the pad..the solder wouldn't stick to the pad...solder wouldn't melt to remove things...frustrating to say the least. This one is eeeaaasy. Expensive, but it should last a really long time. The cheapos die quick...so your not really saving any money.

I use this ....' cheapo ' ....of soldering iron ...
Stainless heating element / arm ...
Most common low-power soldering iron ,seen in electronic's benches ...
(My opinion? Best soldering iron ,I personally ever had ...Simple and trully a workhorse)
http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/Mjk4OTUxOTk-/Werkstatt/Loettechnik/Loetgeraete/Loetkolben_Weller_SI_25.html

 

[only1realhigh]

I had lower end 60w that just burnt out on me, than used a cheapo 30w to finish up, but reshaped the tip and no flux to re tint the tip, but my wife unpacked more box's and found my medium priced 40w iron from years back, plus my flux paste, so now I have 30w and my 40w working for me. I will have to use them for now as needed other supplies so I can finish up this project. Thanks so much.....

 

[stardustsailor]

SDS's Soldering Rules:

1) Never use Flux.Not necessary.Almost all solder wires have flux rosin core .

2) Never scratch / sand / file Nickel alloy plating of solder tip.If copper underneath shows,service life left is less than a year.

3) Always clean solder tip with a well wet ( with plain tap water ) papertowel/ cloth .Avoid breathing the vapours.

4) Solder tip is used only to heat up the surfaces to be soldered.
Solder( wire tip) is applied then,until it forms a shinny blob For Lead solder or an 'eggshell' look for Silver solder alloys.

5) Try to avoid breathing solder fumes.
A bleeding ulcer inside your nostrlis will notify you that you had enough solder fumes breathed ,short after a soldering session.( Fumes = Cloride gases and lead oxide ,mainly ... )
http://www.sentryair.com/solder-fumes.htm

 

[only1realhigh]

Well I am glad it was the cheapo that I reshaped the tip on. Years ago we always shaped our tips, let heat up, dip into flux paste, than tint the tip and unplug iron. After all is cooled down, heat back up the iron and clean tip, and you are off soldering again.... and yes this works, and not all solder is flux rosin core....okay none of mine is.
Thanks for the heads up on the new iron tips, been a few to many years for me.

 

[Positivity]

Running smooth. Barely heats up with fans on high..at least the heatsink. That's important for keeping good temps in the area. Really impressed with cxas..

Neutral is much crisper white...warm..warm looks incredible. Didnt think it would end up to be this bright. Yes..white might be enough

Won't be able to use it for a bit but I'll update when I do..

 

[Mohican]

Looks great! The pictures tell the story well

What are the black cylinders on the right side?

 

[Positivity]

Looks great! The pictures tell the story well

What are the black cylinders on the right side?

Thanks Mohican..those are rubber feet I stick with Velcro on the bottom of the heatsink. So I can work on it without taking the reflectors off

 

[Mohican]

Cool - That was one of my guesses! I also thought that they were capacitors of some kind at first glance and then they looked like shot glasses

 

[Bueno Time]

Nice! That baby has got to be cranking out some serious photons.

 

[stardustsailor]

Running smooth. Barely heats up with fans on high..at least the heatsink. That's important for keeping good temps in the area. Really impressed with cxas..

Neutral is much crisper white...warm..warm looks incredible. Didnt think it would end up to be this bright. Yes..white might be enough

Won't be able to use it for a bit but I'll update when I do..
View attachment 3165788 View attachment 3165787 View attachment 3165785 View attachment 3165790 View attachment 3165789

I like a lot the " cafe-racer " of yours !!!
I think that it packs more than enough,to get the job done ..

I myself I'm pretty impressed with the CXA3070 ..
(I do not think ,that I'll be 'moving' towards more powerful chips like 3590 ..
The 3070 are ideal for small scale grow-sites ...)

With the ease and simplicity they're offering ,regarding wiring and installing ..
With their thermal performance and their ability to be kept cool ,relatively easy ..
With their efficiency and astonishing light output ...

Now ...
If their high irradiance ,'makes up ' for the spectrum ...
Then ,they will turn out to be ,the best (and affordable ) option for growing with leds ..

Trully,they are amazing led arrays ..

 

[only1realhigh]

It is getting bright in here, I can not wait to see their production. Positivity it really does look good. Have to use my setup some before I upgrade. Figure I can use the older LED's out on the patio area for light. Okay that is how I will convince the wife so I can get the newer LED's.