Can you paint a mylar tent white?

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Here, before wrong information gets passed along, the PAR value of a white tent is ALOT better than a silver mylar tent.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member


Here is a 6 minute video comparing the two in a scientific setting. If everyone has time to watch it, this is why I wanted to paint my tent white and have always used white. It's not about how shiny something is to reflect light that is USEABLE for plants.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
So I hope some of the craziness of this thread can stop lol. Now back to the question, all I wanted to know is if it was possible to paint my diamond mylar tent white. Will the paint have a problem sticking to mylar? Is there a certain kind of paint I should use if I do choose to go this route? That's all I wanted to know :p Thanks
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
Being a retired graffiti writer, I guarantee that ANY flat surface can be painted... trust me ;)

Whether it doesn't start flaking off after drying is an exercise I'm not willing to test in my own tents; let us know how it works.

Personally I believe the idea is completely asinine though.

-spek
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Ok thanks spek9, at least that was an answer :p There have been many major manufacturers that discontinued the use of silver tents because it's pointless, so instead of buying some new ones I just figured it'd be cheaper to paint them? But i suppose I can sell them to an unsuspecting grower and tell them it's the best and use the money to buy the good white ones :p
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
I still don't get the purpose of painting over mylar, but each to their own.

I'd recommend Rustoleum 2x flat white spray paint if you're going to test it. Sticks well to all surfaces (even plastic).

-spek
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Ok awesome spek, I think i'll give it a shot. There's more reasons i've come up with to change it to white than to keep it silver I guess, 1) is white reflects less heat (but not positive is white paint over silver mylar would still produce same results?) so it would keep the tent cooler ( I live in cali and it's hot as hell here)..2) because white is better for plants, and 3) it's just easier to look at, I've been scrogging lately so I'm in there more than usual
 

mofucka

Well-Known Member
before you go painting that. Make sure you prime it with good primer.. And or get some d.t.m. Paint

they've got this new stuff out called breakthrough I think. That stuff will stick to anything. And it will hold up for a long long time
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Thanks! That's the perfect info I was looking for, much appreciated!

I know some people would go against it, but that's just how everything is, some people like black cars and some think black cars are ugly, it's all personal preference, no need to deter people from something they prefer. What I'm trying to do is see if painting it white will help with temps and vision in there, I should have just bought white tents but they are more expensive. So I'm hoping this little experiment will help with what I need it to do, if not at least I tried, but the white is more reflective and better for plants is all. This forum is for help and bouncing ideas off each other, that's why this site is great. But damn, there is so much unneeded comments in most of the threads I read, wish people could refrain, and be helpful instead. Oh well that's life :p end of rant

Glad I got the answer I needed.
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
As the question says, can you paint a grow tent with white spray paint? I'd prefer white to mylar and this question just crossed my mind because I have a silver mylar tent. Not sure if this is a dumb question or not, but would like to know.
I have a buddy with migraines all the time, he tokes for his meds,
he too can't handle the mylar shiny surface so he sprayed it with a can of flat white,

...now he's one happy toker


(use white primer ...lol)
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
That's awesome vostok! Makes me feel better I'm not the only one and that it's possible. That's exactly why I don't like the mylar, gives me damn headaches lol Do you know if he likes it better and if it worked well? @vostok
 

a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
When I painted my trash can I found out that most paints would crack or chip when flexed so I went and got latex paint and it solved the problem.

Also, if you ever have to take the tent down and are folding the painted fabric it might get messy.

Good luck and take pics
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
That's awesome vostok! Makes me feel better I'm not the only one and that it's possible. That's exactly why I don't like the mylar, gives me damn headaches lol Do you know if he likes it better and if it worked well? @vostok
Yep! he's a happy toker
last time I saw him he was trying to sun bath in his tent
...but he was a Chernobyl pilot ...hero
but strange guy
 

WeekendSupervisor

Well-Known Member
But damn, there is so much unneeded comments in most of the threads I read, wish people could refrain, and be helpful instead.
If you want answers without personality and conversation, buy a book. I don't have friends in real life, so I like to shoot the shit here and be a wise ass. Sue me. I like the banter.
edit: I don't mean to sound offensive. I understand that some comments are useless, but to me it's worse when you get wrong or misleading comments. Talk is okay, it's what people do.
 

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
The 2x caps are pretty good I found. Not a fat cap, but could spray pretty wide, but you could cut tight with them as well. Nothing beats a pocket full of proper caps along with Montana cans though ;)

-spek
Anything low flow is awesome. .When I used to bomb I would mostly hit up Walmart and buy rustos or krylon for the outline and shading...and use the Walmart brand 98cent cans for the fill in....unless I was writing on a train or a badly eaten wall...those fucked up walls soak up paint like a sponge...and I rather use the better quality stuff runs less with the proper caps on the steel. .u can make it work with stock caps I always used to.. u just gotta work on rhythm and hand speed when cutting tight with those muthafuckers...If you bring proper caps u won't have to change arm speed when your making thinner lines just the distance!!
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
Anything low flow is awesome. .When I used to bomb I would mostly hit up Walmart and buy rustos or krylon for the outline and shading...and use the Walmart brand 98cent cans for the fill in....unless I was writing on a train or a badly eaten wall...those fucked up walls soak up paint like a sponge...and I rather use the better quality stuff runs less with the proper caps on the steel. .u can make it work with stock caps I always used to.. u just gotta work on rhythm and hand speed when cutting tight with those muthafuckers...If you bring proper caps u won't have to change arm speed when your making thinner lines just the distance!!
Awesome talking with a writer online who you can actually tell by their words they have the experience to back it up.

I primarily did wheatpasting, but I did a lot of writing as well. 95% of the time, I just used stock caps (the newer style) with rusto as I rarely got into the fine detail my friends do, but it was always nice having a range on the side just in case, especially with pieces I planned in advance (most what I did was freestyle).

Some guys I know swear by krylon and it's all they use. I never liked it much. I found it too watery (probably didn't try enough different colours).

Haven't painted in a couple years (not entirely, but you know), but I bench an awful lot still (I know a *lot* of train writers), and explore all the graff areas of my city and any other city I visit often to see what new is up.

-spek
 
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