DIY E-Nail

budbro18

budbro18

Well-Known Member
torturekiller420 said:
My next build will have a separate switch for the coil. When you say "convert" a power switch to work. What all does that entail?
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I meant convert one of your nails to work with your coil. hahaha. Sorry for the confusion.

But yeah if you have the infiniti style you should get a flat coil because then you wont have to buy anything where as the 16/20mm round coils only really fit certain ones.


You should throw up a picture of all the nails you have if you want me to help figure out if any will work for sure. If you have a few odds are one will work haha.
 
torturekiller420

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Ive got my coil and Ti figured out actually. I'm a huge glass collector and work with glass myself, that much i do have figured out atleast lol. I have an OG nail on my hascastle enail, and an OG Highly Educated on my auber 2nd gen unit. For this unit thoe i went with a 20mm coil and will be getting either Joel Halen or PukinBeagle quartz for this set-up. I just cant decide what kind of rig to purchase to put this on. Iv really wanted a slime Toro FrothxFroth, butttt my cat broke my Steve Sizelove and after talking to him, i might get a custom rig to go with this enail also.
 
L

losinc

New Member
Howdy Folks,

I'm trying to tune my Auber 1512a

Current Parameters
0001 Menu

AH1- 800

AL1 - 900

AH2 - 300

AL2 - 300

Menu 0036

P - 10.4

I - 0030

D - 007

Souf - 0.2

oT - 002

Filt - 00

Menu 0089

int = Y

outy - 2

atdu - 010

psb - 0

rd - 0


Everything seems fine. Gets up to temp in 2mins or so.
I just notice it over shoots and eventually settles.
Please let me know if my numbers are to aggressive.

Thanks
 
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torturekiller420

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Well. still no issues(knocks on wood). I have put both my other units away and have been using strictly this one. Im going to have some company over tonight to help me put her through the test. When i get some time and am feeling patient, im going to go through and program all those settings posted on here. At the moment however, Auto-tune will work just fine. Im amazed with myself to be quite honest, this product looks and functions great. And i made it! I have a ton of ideas for next one. I cant wait!
10884654_691686104283186_351020385_n.jpg
 
budbro18

budbro18

Well-Known Member
torturekiller420 said:
Well. still no issues(knocks on wood). I have put both my other units away and have been using strictly this one. Im going to have some company over tonight to help me put her through the test. When i get some time and am feeling patient, im going to go through and program all those settings posted on here. At the moment however, Auto-tune will work just fine. Im amazed with myself to be quite honest, this product looks and functions great. And i made it! I have a ton of ideas for next one. I cant wait!
View attachment 3321602
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After all my experimentation ive noticed that the coils are all slightly different and not all settings will work with all coils. Auto tune seems to be the best because it constantly monitors the set temp and actual temp and changing conditions. Its nice because some times were in really cold basements and other times were in warm ass houses and i feel like with the autotune it helps it not be under/over powered due to the ambient temp pulling heat from it or allowing heat to build up faster than it is programmed to run.

It probably also helps your SSR last longer. Dont hold me to this but i wouldnt doubt that it more accurately adjusts the on/off cycle and could lead to longer SSR life due to possibly balancing the on/off cycle better and not going to fast on and off and performing a ton of cycles or going to slow and having to do hard pushing cycles.

Just my 2 cents and for anyone using auber/auber style pids should run in autotune.
 
budbro18

budbro18

Well-Known Member
torturekiller420 said:
Well. still no issues(knocks on wood). I have put both my other units away and have been using strictly this one. Im going to have some company over tonight to help me put her through the test. When i get some time and am feeling patient, im going to go through and program all those settings posted on here. At the moment however, Auto-tune will work just fine. Im amazed with myself to be quite honest, this product looks and functions great. And i made it! I have a ton of ideas for next one. I cant wait!
View attachment 3321602
Click to expand...

Im also about to start messin with different boxes and shit. Im gonna mount this one in a case i found at harbor freight for like 10 bucks. Should be able to fit my piece and the enail in there no problem for a nice little enail on the go. Also, gonna be gettin a generic pelican case to do it to as well for the more rugged adventures.

Been wantin to mess with making a DC/battery powered one but i dont have the money for all the lipos and end up messin one or 2 of them up anyway. But some day ill start one of those threads for an all in one pelican battery enail with solar panel on the top of the pelican and room to store your piece, dabber, concentrates, etc...
 
torturekiller420

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Thats EXACTLY what i need for camping. If you come up with something and need a tester, let me know. Id even be happy to cover the cost of materiasl for one to test. Ive got a peli enail in mind myself, but just one to hold my rig and such, nothing special, just not $1000 from d-nail. I would also like to build a double enail. (2coils, 2 PID's, 4 switches, 1 power cord) Im going to need to do some research with that one. I wish i had 5 of everything right now, i could be a happy builder for a couple weekends!
 
budbro18

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Yeah the SSR creates little heat. Thats why i always recommended using the 25a vs smaller 6-8a ones.

All i did was raise mine up with small bolts in each of the holes and used epoxy to connect those to the housing giving it about 1/4-3/8" of breathing space. Never really gets warm even after hours and hours of running. The thickness of my project boxes wall is much thinner so that may help as well.

All in all though it really barely gets even warm. Ive taken it off and felt inside the box too
 
Fadedawg

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
losinc said:
The pid makes more heat than the ssr. The ssr is running at like 10% of what it is rated for.
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Ostensibly what it is rated for with a heat sink.

I would recommend at least a block of aluminum under it. We've taken out 40 amp SSRs at small fractions of their ratings, but inadequate heat dissipation. They all worked, just didn't last as long.
 
budbro18

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Fadedawg said:
Ostensibly what it is rated for with a heat sink.

I would recommend at least a block of aluminum under it. We've taken out 40 amp SSRs at small fractions of their ratings, but inadequate heat dissipation. They all worked, just didn't last as long.
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Yeah SSRs are some tricky lil guys. One can last damn near forever in some shitty conditions and others fail in prime conditions.

One reason it was probably never mentioned was because the first DIY enails were made using all metal housings so they had built in heat sinking if you will.

I remember reading somewhere that a typical SSR can handle about 6 amps or so without any need of heatsinking. And up to like 10 by just having the bottom plate exposed. Not sure where i heard that. possibly the auber website.

But either way it wouldnt hurt to heat sink. Just for my set up i couldnt fit the traditional SSR heatsink in my box so i was fiddling around with some scrap stainless to make a little "bench" if you will to raise it off the bottom. But i just ended up going with the bolt heads through the screw holes in the SSR which raised it about 1/4"-3/8" off the bottom. Never really hits even 100 according to my IR thermometer.
 
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