Another Cree CXA3070 DIY Thread

majins

Well-Known Member
Sorry for thread high jacking but, Whats the normal wattage from the wall each 3070 should be pulling.
So far gotten 1 put together and is only pulling 25-35W where I was expecting 45-55W since its running 34V at 1.75A
T junction temp 30C.

Thermal compound spread using the dot method then sliding cob around to spread it out and remove any air.
Then used some high temp glue on the 2 corners to insure it doesnt slip off.


Has active cooling but hasnt even needed to turn on since temps are a lot less then I was expecting.
 

draz

Well-Known Member
Sorry for thread high jacking but, Whats the normal wattage from the wall each 3070 should be pulling.
So far gotten 1 put together and is only pulling 25-35W where I was expecting 45-55W since its running 34V at 1.75A
T junction temp 30C.

Thermal compound spread using the dot method then sliding cob around to spread it out and remove any air.
Then used some high temp glue on the 2 corners to insure it doesnt slip off.


Has active cooling but hasnt even needed to turn on since temps are a lot less then I was expecting.
Something definitely not right. Do you have a multimeter to check the current(& voltage)? Should draw ~65W+ depending on the efficiency of the driver.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
@majins

are you sure the driver is using that much current? You should pulling right around 37.5-38volts @1.75 amps...:peace:

if you don't have a multimeter either, a lux meter could take measurements not approximate but good educated guess of its output....
 

majins

Well-Known Member
AC voltage 230V
AC current 1.15A
DC Current at LED (in series) 1.5amp
Voltage at LED (parallel) 32V

Mean Well LPC60-1750 driver
CREE CXA30700N00Z430F

Had about half a hour run time so far. Max temp 37C then fan kicked in and back down to 32C
Im wondering if the kill-a-watt is wrong then. It is about 4 years old lol.

Iv got another one to put together so ill see what that does but iv ran out of time today to do it.

Light meter I have doesn't say what scale it has and its just a budget garden one. But at about 1 foot away its got a reading of 8000
My 900W (600W on kill-a-watt) led has a reading of 19,800 at 1 foot away. And outside in the sun it just goes off the scale which maxes out at 20,000

Going off the current kill-a-watt reading its pulling 27W so that would work out at .84amps which is basically half 1.75 which is what the drivers ment to be rated at.
 
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Abiqua

Well-Known Member
AC voltage 230V
AC current 1.15A
DC Current at LED (in series) 1.5amp
Voltage at LED (parallel) 32V

Mean Well LPC60-1750 driver
CREE CXA30700N00Z430F

Had about half a hour run time so far. Max temp 37C then fan kicked in and back down to 32C
Im wondering if the kill-a-watt is wrong then. It is about 4 years old lol.

Iv got another one to put together so ill see what that does but iv ran out of time today to do it.

Light meter I have doesn't say what scale it has and its just a budget garden one. But at about 1 foot away its got a reading of 8000
My 900W (600W on kill-a-watt) led has a reading of 19,800 at 1 foot away. And outside in the sun it just goes off the scale which maxes out at 20,000

Going off the current kill-a-watt reading its pulling 27W so that would work out at .84amps which is basically half 1.75 which is what the drivers ment to be rated at.

Im guessing that is dragging down the current to match voltage??? That driver is rated for 34v @ 1750, which isn't that great of a match for the 3070.....unless there is internal pot you can adjust....

The 3070 wants at least 37.5 volts, my chart only goes up to 1.4 amps....with a quick look in think the 3070 is 37.2 volts @ 1.4 amps, so even higher is required for 1.75 amps....

Efficiency.jpg
 

majins

Well-Known Member
Opened it up and there is no pot to adjust anything inside it.
Just a solid block of silicon.



I guess ill just have to live with the high efficiency of under driving it if there is no problem with that.
Bit annoying tho since was recommended this driver over PM by a few people on here when asking about what driver to get.
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
Opened it up and there is no pot to adjust anything inside it.
Just a solid block of silicon.



I guess ill just have to live with the high efficiency of under driving it if there is no problem with that.
Bit annoying tho since was recommended this driver over PM by a few people on here when asking about what driver to get.
Seems a better choice for vero 18 as far as voltage requirements. vero 29 and cxa go closer to 40v as you get closer to max output. Hopefully you didn't buy many...
 

majins

Well-Known Member
Just 2X 3070s and 2X drivers. Only really needed it to get some more light into the corners of the tent so no real loss.
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
should be fine then at 30watts. Put a vero18 on it and get less efficiency and more output. :-) Glad it wasn't a huge debacle.
 

happy75

Well-Known Member
Too much 730 during lights on will cause excess stretching but at lights out it's just a trigger for the the plant.You get more plant growth because you speed up the state switch and give the plant more energy to build with. As a rule outdoor starts flowering at 14/10 and indoor is 12/12,that because outdoors the plant gets 730 naturally and indoors there is no 730 at sunset and after. Without 730 the plant takes two hours to switch states,you also need 660nm at lights on to change the state back. Flowering is controlled by the length of darkness,outdoors 14/10,indoors 12/12 plus the two hours to change state because of the lack of 730 at lights out. With the strains that I run it has shortened my flower time by about a week and increased yields by taking in the extra energy when on 13.5/10.5. I've been using it for going on two years and swear by it.
Hi captain. What are you using to generate 660 nm? The 3070 highest bin has almost the same amount of 660 than blue. I read somewhere that it was about 11%. Is that percentage enough 660 nm to switch the state back and lengthen daytime to 13.5 hours?

I am running 70x 3070 AB's @ 850mA, with 2x 10 watts of 730 nm at lights out for 7 minutes. Lightschedule is still 12/12 @ day 35. They are growing fine, but are a bit slow, certainly when I see your plants and some other plants @ 30-35 days. Want to go to 13.5/10.5, but should I use seperate 660 nm before I can lenghten daytime and have you got any clue how many watts?
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Hi captain. What are you using to generate 660 nm? The 3070 highest bin has almost the same amount of 660 than blue. I read somewhere that it was about 11%. Is that percentage enough 660 nm to switch the state back and lengthen daytime to 13.5 hours?

I am running 70x 3070 AB's @ 850mA, with 2x 10 watts of 730 nm at lights out for 7 minutes. Lightschedule is still 12/12 @ day 35. They are growing fine, but are a bit slow, certainly when I see your plants and some other plants @ 30-35 days. Want to go to 13.5/10.5, but should I use seperate 660 nm before I can lenghten daytime and have you got any clue how many watts?
Like the 730 nm trigger the 660 nm required is small,if your using a warm or neutral white you have plenty. The only reason for a separate 660 nm trigger would be if you had a panel made with discrete LED's and the 660 nm range wasn't included.

I usually start the 730 nm trigger 2 weeks into flower and go to 13.5/10.5 then.
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Like the 730 nm trigger the 660 nm required is small,if your using a warm or neutral white you have plenty. The only reason for a separate 660 nm trigger would be if you had a panel made with discrete LED's and the 660 nm range wasn't included.

I usually start the 730 nm trigger 2 weeks into flower and go to 13.5/10.5 then.
Great thread. I have some questions that only experience can answer, hopefully this is a right place to ask.
Can you tell how much faster is flowering against 12/12? Does it affect yield? Did you observe longer than usual flowering with white COBs only?
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Mean Well LPC60-1750 driver
CREE CXA30700N00Z430F

Going off the current kill-a-watt reading its pulling 27W so that would work out at .84amps which is basically half 1.75 which is what the drivers ment to be rated at.
Hey bud, @Abiqua nailed it, the LPC-60-1750 does not match up with the CXA3070 unfortunately. The problem is that the voltage range of the driver maxes out at 34V but the CXA3070 would need 38.5.
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Great thread. I have some questions that only experience can answer, hopefully this is a right place to ask.
Can you tell how much faster is flowering against 12/12? Does it affect yield? Did you observe longer than usual flowering with white COBs only?
Sorry I missed this till now. Going with top bin white COB's doesn't affect flower time but increased my yields dramatically,using 730 nm and increasing the light schedule has seemed to shorten flower times for me as much as a week.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep super cropp her to save the day. You can pinch the stem with your fingernail a few times in the direction you want to fold it. Easier if you have hollow stems but works with solid stems too. Might be easiest to do when they are thirsty, less likely to snap on the opposite side of the bend.
DSC08300a.jpg
DSC08304a.jpg
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I think GG said the same thing he was warned about the stretch but it still surprised him. I do prefer some space between the nugs, less self shading that occurs inside big colas, seems to result in better quality nugs.
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
I think GG said the same thing he was warned about the stretch but it still surprised him. I do prefer some space between the nugs, less self shading that occurs inside big colas, seems to result in better quality nugs.
I think it was me that warned him,thought I had enough but I didn't allow enough for the extra CXA growth.
 
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