JavaCo
Well-Known Member
Yeah Fuck 420 they went threw my journal and edited it, took a bunch of stuff out. So they can kiss my ass Fuck that web site. I hope all their servers fry and go up in smoke.
Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
I don't know if it was pure luck or what but RIU was the first marijuana centered forum site that I joined.. and it's the only one that I prefer after visiting the others.
My only rant about RIU would be the recent advertisements, which are becoming a little excessive as a whole. Back on one of those other sites, I had an ad pop up that offered women sharing news... while naked! Lol, we need more of those kind of ads here at RIU, lol, and less seed ads.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I will start a new thread and try some seeds in this micro greenhouse.
Thanks everyone.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Have you replaced those hanger wires with something more suitable? Just seems a bit odd that the whole thing is so much effort just to mcguiver a hanger. You could make something really nice with 1/16" stainless cable and some aluminum ferrules.
Or even just using rope.
tick tack toe
Well-Known Member
Here is mine
4 x cree CXB 3070 AD 3000k with a HLC - 185 - 1400
I still need to work how close I can have them to these plants.
4 x cree CXB 3070 AD 3000k with a HLC - 185 - 1400
I still need to work how close I can have them to these plants.
I'm planning to buy 4 CXB3070 3000k 80CRI AD that I'll use on a small 1m2 box to do a prototype - depending on the results I will replace completely all the HPS lights I own.
If I find that 4 CXB are not powerful enough for 1m2, I'll add a 240W LED panel.
I have one big question. A lot of people don't put any lenses on their leds, even when using them for a small surface. Is there any reason for that?
For instance, KingBrite's leds lenses have a 97% transmittance. Is it not better to add a lens, so all the light goes directly to the canopy instead of bouncing all over the place?
The design I have in mind is using a CXB centered in a 0.5x0.5 square to cover 1m2 (and maybe puting the 240W LED panel at the center).
I did some maths. If I'm not wrong, in my setting, the best option is to use 60 degree lenses.
I'm also going to buy 80 lenses because I fear that 60 degree lenses won't homogeneously spread the light.
KB-HB100-60
KB-HB100-80
Any suggestions/advice/experiences with lenses and COB leds?
If I find that 4 CXB are not powerful enough for 1m2, I'll add a 240W LED panel.
I have one big question. A lot of people don't put any lenses on their leds, even when using them for a small surface. Is there any reason for that?
For instance, KingBrite's leds lenses have a 97% transmittance. Is it not better to add a lens, so all the light goes directly to the canopy instead of bouncing all over the place?
The design I have in mind is using a CXB centered in a 0.5x0.5 square to cover 1m2 (and maybe puting the 240W LED panel at the center).
I did some maths. If I'm not wrong, in my setting, the best option is to use 60 degree lenses.
I'm also going to buy 80 lenses because I fear that 60 degree lenses won't homogeneously spread the light.
KB-HB100-60
KB-HB100-80
Any suggestions/advice/experiences with lenses and COB leds?
Wow, that's a lot. Hopefully my next order will look like that. Could I ask you what drivers you're going to use?
REALSTYLES
Well-Known Member
Meanwell HLG-185H-C700A. & version B on one of the panelsI'm planning to buy 4 CXB3070 3000k 80CRI AD that I'll use on a small 1m2 box to do a prototype - depending on the results I will replace completely all the HPS lights I own.
If I find that 4 CXB are not powerful enough for 1m2, I'll add a 240W LED panel.
I have one big question. A lot of people don't put any lenses on their leds, even when using them for a small surface. Is there any reason for that?
For instance, KingBrite's leds lenses have a 97% transmittance. Is it not better to add a lens, so all the light goes directly to the canopy instead of bouncing all over the place?
The design I have in mind is using a CXB centered in a 0.5x0.5 square to cover 1m2 (and maybe puting the 240W LED panel at the center).
I did some maths. If I'm not wrong, in my setting, the best option is to use 60 degree lenses.
I'm also going to buy 80 lenses because I fear that 60 degree lenses won't homogeneously spread the light.
KB-HB100-60
KB-HB100-80
Any suggestions/advice/experiences with lenses and COB leds?
Wow, that's a lot. Hopefully my next order will look like that. Could I ask you what drivers you're going to use?
the dopest
Well-Known Member
I think four will be cutting it close, five would be perfect with one centered and the four on corners between the center and corner of the box. jmo
tick tack toe
Well-Known Member
I agree. While doing my research in which cobs to get, I found that for me with 4 CXB 3070 AD cobs in my 80cm square tent it would give me just the right amount of PAR per something ..... look, I researched while high and forgot the names. But It came out just under 14 PAR something. Where 14 to 16 is the best range.
In a nutshell, for 1m2 tent look into 5 lights.
In my setup I found the meanwell unit to be the same size as the heatsinks so if I wanted more cobs it is easy to move the driver over and add another. Another reason I went with a 2amp 12volt supply so I could add more fans. Here is a picture showing on the side. I can add more lights in the middle if I ever need more.
alesh
Well-Known Member
Never used any lens, just came here to say that transmittance is something completely different from efficiency. No wonder that KB don't state efficiency of their lenses and reflectors anywhere.I'm planning to buy 4 CXB3070 3000k 80CRI AD that I'll use on a small 1m2 box to do a prototype - depending on the results I will replace completely all the HPS lights I own.
If I find that 4 CXB are not powerful enough for 1m2, I'll add a 240W LED panel.
I have one big question. A lot of people don't put any lenses on their leds, even when using them for a small surface. Is there any reason for that?
For instance, KingBrite's leds lenses have a 97% transmittance. Is it not better to add a lens, so all the light goes directly to the canopy instead of bouncing all over the place?
The design I have in mind is using a CXB centered in a 0.5x0.5 square to cover 1m2 (and maybe puting the 240W LED panel at the center).
I did some maths. If I'm not wrong, in my setting, the best option is to use 60 degree lenses.
I'm also going to buy 80 lenses because I fear that 60 degree lenses won't homogeneously spread the light.
KB-HB100-60
KB-HB100-80
Any suggestions/advice/experiences with lenses and COB leds?
Wow, that's a lot. Hopefully my next order will look like that. Could I ask you what drivers you're going to use?
The second graph looks like a very nice, though. It'd give you a very even distribution of light.
My first light, CXB3070 @ 1400 mA ~ 200w
Here is us plugging it in for the first time: http://gfycat.com/OccasionalBadCaiman
Here is my second light, went cheap on this one. Vero 29 @ 1500mA ~100w
I was thinking aboit doing a veg light like this but adding some royal blue xte.
I just finished three of these for my 5x5 tent.
Each one has:
2 x cxb3590 3000k 72v
- powered by HLG-120H-C1050A
1 x cxb3590 3000k 36v
- powered by HLN-80H-42A
3 x Cpu cooler fans
- powered by LPV-20-12
AC inlets and outlets.
All cobs mounted on Alpine Arctic 64 Plus cpu coolers with Ideal holders and then fixed using cpu cooler motherboard brackets inside of a vinyl fence post (vinyl post idea borrowed from @SomeGuy if I'm not mistaken).
They use about 250w each for a total of 750.
Each one has:
2 x cxb3590 3000k 72v
- powered by HLG-120H-C1050A
1 x cxb3590 3000k 36v
- powered by HLN-80H-42A
3 x Cpu cooler fans
- powered by LPV-20-12
AC inlets and outlets.
All cobs mounted on Alpine Arctic 64 Plus cpu coolers with Ideal holders and then fixed using cpu cooler motherboard brackets inside of a vinyl fence post (vinyl post idea borrowed from @SomeGuy if I'm not mistaken).
They use about 250w each for a total of 750.
Attachments
Vinyl fence post from Lowes http://m.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-Arborley-White-Vinyl-Fence-Post-Common-96-in-Actual-96-in/4009495
Used chop saw and dremel tool to cut it up.
Again I got the fence post idea from @SomeGuy. I simply liked the look better than the fully exposed look.
This excercise kinda freed my mind a little as wacky as that may sound.
Btw, I also got a nice amount of helpful info from @SupraSPL and a couple others.
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SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
Nice going man.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
My own humble DIY COB LED grow light ..
Well ..
Not something fancy ,but it does it's job ,pretty well I should say ...
Cheers.
Well ..
Not something fancy ,but it does it's job ,pretty well I should say ...
Cheers.
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Meinolf
Well-Known Member
I thought the same initially, but I had doubts about the thermal performance. I tried covering the Alpine11 with another reflector/candle bowl, so the air that is blown down through is sucked upwards again. After a few minutes it already got way warmer than the other heatsinks. Covering everything up in a linear tube will also hinder warm air exiting, won't it? Good thing is, there is no warm airflow towards the plants.
However, your fixture is looking good indeed!
I'm not sure I fully understand what you are describing with the alpine 11...
So far thermal performance doesn't seem to be a problem. Admittedly, I have not run them 12 hours continuous yet, but I have large openings directly above each cpu fan and I can feel air flowing out of the top. Heat sink fins are oriented in parallel in relation to the bar itself. I have fans I can add to the ends to help if it turns out that I need them. So far the heatsinks barely raise in temp at all. We shall see what happens.
On a related note, I had installed ksd9700 35c inline temperature switches (pic included) and attached one to each heatsink. The trouble with these switches is that they have a stated margin of error +- 5 degrees, which causes some of them to shut off too early. I removed them but I may try again at some point because I like the idea.
Attachments
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
@JJ43 I really like the idea of using a material that is readily available and easy to work with. I was just brainstorming an idea based on your clever use of the vinyl fence post material.
Imagine NO FANs on top of each of the alpine11s, instead we have a fan on either side of a sealed channel. One fan pushing and one fan pulling, much like an air cooled HPS setup. One could even decide to duct the hot air out of the room all together. If the heat sinks were all oriented the correct direction, i dont see why this wouldnt work, assuming the openings for the COBs were largely sealed.
