...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
SLITLOS said:
Bicit, I have never used the Non-Fluted taps, or ever seen them, I worked sheet metal fab shop, they
may have used them in the machine/engine shop, but that was another world unto it self.
I just bought a small can of WD-40 to spray down the tools I'm having to buy doing this DYI, gave my
2 rollaway tool boxes and tool to my son when I left the US. Having to buy new toys to make things.
SLITLOS
Click to expand...
Not the cheapest example. Just an example of what I prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/Dormer-Powdered-Forming-Bottoming-Chamfer/dp/B004J4VUIO/ref=sr_1_5/186-8246648-4197548?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1439675250&sr=1-5&refinements=p_thread_type-vebin:Metric
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
SLITLOS said:
In aircraft aluminum drilling in the shop, we used WD-40 as a lube or paraffin(canning wax).
Don't forget to start with a "starting tap", there is also taper and bottoming taps, sometimes you have
to use two taps to do the job right. Besides backing up when you feel pressure as "Rahz" said, you
may need to back the tap OUT to clean the chips out.
They aren't cheap, but they do make tap extractors, and for big $$$ parts from blueprints, you can't
drill and tap a new hole.
SLITLOS
Click to expand...
Paraffin wax sounds like an excellent idea. I was using propylene glycol perceiving it to be less cleanup than oil. I ended up buying some drill oil and after some thought I tried pouring a small amount in a shot glass. Application is a simple as dipping the tip of the tap into the oil 1/8-1/16 of an inch, hardly anything to clean.
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
Paraffin wax sounds like an excellent idea. I was using propylene glycol perceiving it to be less cleanup than oil. I ended up buying some drill oil and after some thought I tried pouring a small amount in a shot glass. Application is a simple as dipping the tip of the tap into the oil 1/8-1/16 of an inch, hardly anything to clean.
Click to expand...
I do the exact same thing, a little bit of "Tap Magic" for aluminum in a shot glass goes a very long way. also has a nice distinctive fragrance, almost pavlovian

With the right lube its so easy to tap holes by hand for mounting leds.

even my gal agrees :lol: that a little bit of lube goes a long way.
 
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Sxott

Sxott

Well-Known Member
I use some stuff called Relton A9. Its made for aluminum. Only bought it because it was on the counter when I was buying my 4/40 screws. Done about 80 holes now with same drill and tap. Most holes, I dont even have to back it off to clear the chips. (even on 3/8' base)
I used the canned compressed air (the kind for cpus,keyboards...) to clean holes before putting screws through them. Paper towel behind hole to catch garbage.

Thats how I skin my cat
 
S

SLITLOS

Well-Known Member
captainmorgan said:
Old timers used Kerosene for a lubricant on Aluminum,that's what I use.
Click to expand...
I'm a SFO-47 model, but they say "there's no fool like an old fool", safety rules about flammables
around aircraft is utmost, just like wearing safety glasses while drilling/sanding, you only have
one pair, safety first! This how I was taught when I started as an apprintice in 67 from the old school.
It's easy to pick up a can and point the spray tube at the hole and put where it's needed, nothing to
spill, no cans or barrels to mess with. The only kerosine we used was in the aircrafts tanks.
How many of you have a fire extingusher near your work and grow areas??
SLITLOS
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
My signature seems appropriate... :P

I think someone on here mentioned using polypropylene glycol in the past. Non flammable and water soluble.
 
rosswaa

rosswaa

Well-Known Member
Have up trying to tap the screw heads kept snapping off. I managed to make the frame and tap that fine though -_-
Here's what I ended up with











Works great. Turned a stool upside down to hang the lights from and test



Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app
 
captainmorgan

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
SLITLOS said:
How is this related to drilling and tapping aluminum and removing broken taps?
Grow Up
SLITLOS
Click to expand...
A little touchy are we? As a old fool that should have a fire extinguisher when I use my kerosene I just wanted to point out that you like spray lubricants and may want to keep your extinguisher handy too. Loosen up a little,I was just kidding around and I'm not having a stroke over your comments.
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
I use no lube at all for most small holes. Only broke two taps due to improperly drilled holes before I got my press.
 
rosswaa

rosswaa

Well-Known Member
Just received 2 new taps and they're easy as hell now. They're spiral tap things

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
bottom as in bottoming taps...too
just a little :joint: friendly reminder


People need to remember that the drilling depth is about 4-5 mm....screw depth maybe only reaches 2-3mm deep [from flush] in the best case scenario...

Get the tap to turn 2-3 turns and back out...Should be enough...for M3....:peace:
 
G

Gundy315

Active Member
Hello everyone! This is my first post on RIU, but I've been lurking for quite a while. I've been planning a DIY Vero fixture and I'm seeking some feedback on my plan before I start firing off orders.

My grow space (shallow closet) dimensions are 6'(w) x 2'(d) x 8' (h). Realistic canopy dimensions are roughly 5.8'x1.8'... so, let's say 10.5 sq. ft. (or ~1 sq. meter) with 4 plants (5, max). I'll be using the space for both veg & flower. The plan is to run a single "beam" of COBs mounted to Arctic 11 coolers, using aluminum angle or square bar as a rail system.

The setup:
4 x Vero 29 V2 3000K (80 CRI); powered by 1x Inventronics EUC-320S210DT @ 2.1A (dimmable); wired in series.
3 x Vero 18 4000K (80 CRI); powered by 1x Meanwell HLG-120H-C1400B @ 1.4A (dimmable); wired in series.
- I would alternate the COBs, so the string (left-to-right) would be: V29-V18-V29-V18-V29-V18-V29 (spaced at ~10" on center)
- I prefer to minimize the number of drivers for simplicity's sake (and to control cost of the build).

I would have power to each driver on a switch, so I can run the V18 4000Ks for veg, then bring in the V29 3000Ks for flower (running both V18s and V29s), then maybe just the V29s for the last 2 weeks of flower.

Here is my math (this could be way off...):
V29 v2: 37.5Vf x 2.1A = 78.75W x 4 COBs = 315W x 39.64% eff = 128.4 PAR W
V18 v2: 29.83Vf x 1.4A = 41.76W x 3 COBs = 125.29W x 37.94% eff = 47.5 PAR W

So... 440W draw (plus fan power), and ~176 PAR W. Of course those are max numbers, and I would probably dim it down a bit to boost efficiency.

Questions:
1) Does this look like a viable plan?
2) Any errors in my math?
3) Are my spectrum/CRI choices ideal? (should I maybe run 5000K V18s?)
4a) Will a single line of Veros provide ample coverage over the ~2' depth of the space?
4b) Should I run lenses on the COBs? 90-deg or narrower? Or, just run them as is?
5) any comments, suggestions or guidance will be welcomed.

Thanks!
 
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