It does. It's the hlg-185-c1050 B modelJust to make sure. Your driver has the external dim wires correct?
Usually yes. There will be a different port that will have A on it instead of V and the omega sign@SupraSPL @Getgrowingson , Do I need to change the port that the red or black leads are in on the meter?
@SupraSPL thanks for the tip, you and @Getgrowingson support has propelled me headlong into learning all of this and I am truly thankful for that.Also beware the alligator clips, they can short to heatsink, short to each other and can cause intermittent connection while testing. I have had to resort to custom made leads with wrapped slide connectors for testing current to try and get a solid safe connection that will maintain the circuit if moved during testing.
DMM??Right about the DMM, that set of terminals has an internal fuse rated at 10 amps.
Thank you!Right about the DMM, that set of terminals has an internal fuse rated at 10 amps. I was going to suggest cardboard for temporary insulation but it looks like you have it under control.
I'll solder the damned things then. I'm actually pretty good with a gun.. If it's the holders I'll be pissed! I've drilled and tapped ten of those fuckers!Flip it! Seriously AL your good to go. Red in the 10 ADC, Black in COM. Wires are correct. I've missed a big section of action but I'm blamin' those COB holders. I just never trusted that design. We'll see.
Well?
I didn't mean to distract you AL. There is a way to check your connections with the DMM but let's see what your amperage is first. And since Sup is online I'd do it soon .I'll solder the damned things then. I'm actually pretty good with a gun.. If it's the holders I'll be pissed! I've drilled and tapped ten of those fuckers!
I can't get the lights to turn on or the meter to read with the meter inline.. I assume that DMM = Multimeter?I didn't mean to distract you AL. There is a way to check your connections with the DMM but let's see what your amperage is first. And since Sup is online I'd do it soon .