CXB3590 1500W

yoda954 said:
Hi

I like to know if it is possible to put a interuptor instead of potentiometer 100 ohm driver "HLG-185H-C Series 1400" to put my panel vegetative way ???
example:
interuptor on mode 1 = max power of 1400 amperes panel
interuptor on Mode 2 = medium power 700 amps or less
how can do to put a interuptor to do this or should I get another driver?

thank you a lot
have a good day
Click to expand...
Sure. Something like this:
sch.jpg
 
SupraSPL said:
For comparison, here are some decent yielding ladies in the same space @ ~6weeks All super stinky

TH Seeds - Critical HOG
View attachment 3553163

TGA - Ace of Spades
View attachment 3553164

G13 Labs - Sour Jack
View attachment 3553166
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Very nice I'm doing a critical hog at the moment its 1 of the strongest strains I ever smoked really enjoyed it. I wanted to try the sour jack Aswell but it was discontinued when I tried to buy it. How long will you let the hog flower for??
 
Ya I was bummed that G13 discontinued the Sour Jack and I loved their Durban Poison as well but lost the cutting and it is discontinued.

The HOG pictured is at ~6 weeks, it looks like it will be finished at 7-7.5 weeks in these cool temps but at ~80F it finishes ~8.5 weeks. This one has a strong skunk / meat / red wine smell, popular smoke and cooperative plant.
DSC09038b Critical Hog 6 weeks.jpg
 
Do you count from the day you flip to 12/12 or do you wait a week. Reason I ask is cause I never count the 1st week. I usually let the hog go for 10 weeks including the 1st week that I don't count my temps are 80f
 
Sorry to keep on but I haven't seen any1 do the hog b4, if u harvest at 7/7.5 weeks do u get the maximum potential (yield/potency). Would u mind if I showed u my hog tonight it's at the last day of week 3 so 21 days just so u could give me your opinion
 
For sure man post it up.

When I harvest it I make sure the pistils are all dead and the plant has stopped drinking as much. Then I let it get at least 12 hours of darkness before the chop. I will def post up some macros before the harvest so we can analyze/compare.

I have noticed that some of the bigger yielders are more prone to foxtailing and high bud temps can exacerbate that in some cases, making for a very slow finish. Luckily this lady is not prone to that but it is not a huge yielder either.

Here is the same cut at 54 days, when it was cold last February so low canopy temps for this one also 75-78F
img_0011b-jpg.3352517
 
lol its shots like these^ thank make me wish i knew what i was doing with leds.
on the market for a new light and all i can say is can i have yours?
lmao but really.
im a complete novice when it comes to leds.
im looking to get a light going like yours.
any help?
much appreciated!!!
Thanks you!

Stay Up!:leaf:
 
SupraSPL said:
Most recent batch gave me the best numbers I have been able to manage so far, 1.47 gpw in 56 days. COBs were running at 20-25W ea, 55-65% efficiency. A mixture of CXB3070 3K AD, CXB3590 3K CB and CXB3590 3500K CD. Max intensity was ~ 700 PPFD averaged

I put DIY reflectors on the COBs that are on the edge of the canopy. ROLS soil mix that was mostly no -till. I did use a lot of EWC during transplant and I watered in a bubbled few nutrient teas during flowering. Canopy temps were 75-78F. CO2 ranged from 400-900 PPM.

I was amazed how fast they finished and I assume that is due to the lower canopy temps now that summer has passed. I figure 60 days is an average mark for how fast most hybrids can finish. So if it finishes faster, I consider it a bonus to gpw and if it finishes slower I consider that a penalty to gpw because I want to move the next batch of ladies into that flowering space as soon as possible.

So if the numbers are adjusted with the 60 day mark in mind, some of my previous best looks a lot lower because of higher temps and makes the 56 day finish looks even better:
1.34 gpw in 70 days = 1.15 gpw in 60 days
1.47 gpw in 56 days = 1.58 gpw in 60 days

Huge difference in productivity when I look at it that way. Also worth mentioning the quality of the 56 days batch was much higher than the 70day batch, also due to lower canopy temperature I assume.
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That's awesome man and very interesting!
 
@SupraSPL

Hello Sir,
im since some days new member of this forum, i wanted to say BIG THANKS to you(SupraSPL) and to REALSTYLES.
I did build my own LED light in the optic from REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL and with that config from u SupraSPL
@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)

The light work since one week without any problems :) and the best thing is my new light is always so cool it never got hot :O
Again big thanks guys, u both made it able that i could build my own light without any knowledge about LEDS or even ELECTRIC :D

Sorry for my bad english, but it isnt my 1st language
 
@SupraSPL 1234.jpg 12344.jpg 12344555.jpg

Hello Sir,
i noticed that u have a lot of knowledge about Led, my knowledge is really bad:/ in compare to urs.
i would like to show ur some datas about a W-peak Horticulture LED(COB), it would be nice if u can tell me if it is worth to buy some of this COBS in future.
i hope this informations are enough on the 3 pictures to make an opinon.
 
Malocan said:
@SupraSPL View attachment 3554079 View attachment 3554080 View attachment 3554081
Hello Sir,
i noticed that u have a lot of knowledge about Led, my knowledge is really bad:/ in compare to urs.
i would like to show ur some datas about a W-peak Horticulture LED(COB), it would be nice if u can tell me if it is worth to buy some of this COBS in future.
i hope this informations are enough on the 3 pictures to make an opinon.
Click to expand...

Hello, glad you put together such an awesome light man i am sure you will be thrilled with the results.

To compare your lamp versus the Horticulture COB mentioned above:

CXB3590 3500K @ 23W = 2.98 umol/s/W
Horticulture COB @ 26W = 1.82 umol/s/W
 
Hi mate sorry I didn't post the pic of critical hog last night once I finished working on the lady's I was due my 12 hours of darkness lol. Here it is now anyway on day 22 of flower image.jpg sorry about the pic it's really poor I know I will be taking better pics. Lol my Christmas tree next to my tree. Does it look about right for 22 days???
 
Hammer of the Gods is popular atm, i seen a lot of guys testing it's potentials
looks great Supra, enjoy the holidaze :wink:
WwW
 
For a 4'x4' space and for bloom; With two panels of CXB3590, 4 COBs on each panel and alternating
3000K 3500K 3000K 3500K, I was thinking of adding a 3rd panel in-between those two which would have all 2700K COBs.

So the layout would look like this above the 4x4 footprint:

3000K 3500K 3000K 3500K

2700K 2700K 2700K 2700K

3500L 3000K 3500K 3000K


Would it be more effective for me to instead, continue to use only the 3000K and 3500K COBs and have three panels alternating these two temperatures only, or should I consider a different option for temperatures at this time, for bloom? It seems like the 2700K is also an important temp for bloom but maybe the benefit is not so much. I have no idea, I've just been reading as much as I can to get it right as possible.

I should add, the existing panels have lenses, I was thinking of not using lenses in the center panel to let the light spread out from the center. The existing COBs are the higher voltage COBs, the 2700 is only available in the 36V designation of CB and CD I think it is.

Thoughts?
 
Megalomando said:
For a 4'x4' space and for bloom; With two panels of CXB3590, 4 COBs on each panel and alternating
3000K 3500K 3000K 3500K, I was thinking of adding a 3rd panel in-between those two which would have all 2700K COBs.

So the layout would look like this above the 4x4 footprint:

3000K 3500K 3000K 3500K

2700K 2700K 2700K 2700K

3500L 3000K 3500K 3000K


Would it be more effective for me to instead, continue to use only the 3000K and 3500K COBs and have three panels alternating these two temperatures only, or should I consider a different option for temperatures at this time, for bloom? It seems like the 2700K is also an important temp for bloom but maybe the benefit is not so much. I have no idea, I've just been reading as much as I can to get it right as possible.

I should add, the existing panels have lenses, I was thinking of not using lenses in the center panel to let the light spread out from the center. The existing COBs are the higher voltage COBs, the 2700 is only available in the 36V designation of CB and CD I think it is.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I have read that 2700 has same phosphor content as the 3000k but just more phosphor so only efficiency loss and no real benifit.
Wait for Supra or someone knowledgeable to chime in.
 
One thing for sure is the different color COBs are obvious. the 5000K for Veg is much brighter than the 3500K and that one is brighter than the 3000K. The 3000K just doesn't seem to have the aggressiveness of the higher temp COBs. I'm guessing the 2700K would appear dimmer but dimmer might be a bad choice of words and they put out the same energy but that's the way the rods & cones in our eyes perceive those wavelength's intensities? No clue.
 
Can i ask something here ?? really intrigued with Cob's but something is on my mind i see everyone is mixing spectrum's to there Diy units
As a 1215 watt Nanolux growers running 4 of them i am looking to add 3 full spectrum lights in-between them which do you honestly think would be better COB or CMH
I been looking at both spectrums it appears CMH has a more rounded spectrum in the lower end as well in the upper end or am stoned lol ..
Either way could someone please be kind of enough to give me your imput ?
been looking at nano CMH plug and play,, Please note i am not looking for efficiency as i do own a gas Guzzling SUV.. but i want a honest opinion what route should i go as in cost and Overall performance how much would it cost to make same units in cob COB present prices
Nano 315 CMH 323 bucks
Nano 630 CMH 550 bucks

How much to make 315 or 630 full spectrum
 
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