Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Or a Wye?
IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!
- Thread starter SnotBoogie
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PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
So what is the point of having two exhaust ducts again if you end up to one inline fan?
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
maybe the light doubles as a magic carpet? you just sit on it and flip the switch and the turbos blow fire out those exhaust holes,betta hang on fo yo life bro's lol
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
More air flowing through the fixture and over both rows of Cobs. ..I really have to explain this?So what is the point of having two exhaust ducts again if you end up to one inline fan?
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Yeah, because one duct and fan couldn't accomplish this right?
Like in every other air cooled hood/fixture.......whatever ,i guess I'm stupid then
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
go on...why don't you include the model #'s for said items...I doubt the drivers are worth a shit, but to each their own.
Big smo
Well-Known Member
So many haters, it's ok you all can keep the Mars hydros, I'm pretty confident there aren't many lights out there as good as these. Not to mention the reply time from the owner and the 5 year warranty. No light can compete with this.
TimoteoPT
Member
Some food for some minds:
"Great question. CREE have the best white lighting solutions available right now due to their high performance royal blue chips, remote phosphor patents and manufacturing techniques. Many of the smaller companies in the industry have started producing full white LED grow lights because of:
From our research, producing an LED grow light with just generic white LED's provides similar yields to that of most good quality HPS. High quality deep red LED like the CREE XPE or Lumileds Rebel which can produce light between 650-660nm at over 40%+ efficiency will have a much higher quantum yield per photon, less reflection and is what drives 80%+ of the growth/photosynthesis seen under any XXXX fixture we have produced so far. Monochromatic emitters like deep red are the only ones that can offer energy/yield efficiency advantages of HPS and until new developments in phosphors, blue chips or the stability of quantum dots our lights will most probably include high ratio of quality 650-660nm LED's.
Now that said the important question we faced when designing the XXXXX was whether to use blue or white supplementary LED's. From testing 460nm royal blue LED's produce the most desired results when observing a plants bio physical and bio chemical reactions to light like phototropism or the optimization of Chlorophyll A absorption by increased absorption at Chlorophyll B. Apart from those functions Royal blue really contributes very little to the growth of the plant where a white light spectrum can drive growth and photon absorption at Chlorophyll A and B. However regardless of the white LED's spectrum the efficiency of the emitter can never be as efficient as the Royal Blue LED chip alone due to the remote phosphor. So in short if we choose Royal blue we could use a lower ratio of them and a higher ration of deep red and this would be the most efficient for photosynthesis. Alternatively you can use a slightly higher ratio of white LED's in combination with a proportionally lower number of deep red. Both methods will grow plants at very similar rate per watt with the Deep red/ royal blue being the most efficient.
The big factor for XXXXX using more white LED's over Royal blue is the so that the user has the ability to safely inspect and work in the same area when he lights are turned on with out damaging their eyes. For this we look at the international electronic community standard IEC62471 and the reports companies like CREE produce http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...p/XLamp Application Notes/XLamp_EyeSafety.pdf. These show that shorter higher energy wavelengths like royal blue are the highest risk for eye safety. This is why on the XXXX we decided to go with a Deep red/far red/ royal blue/ white spectrum substituting some deep red and and most of the blue LED's for white LED's. On the new systems we will be going with Deep red/Far Red/White. The white LEDs have a custom binning but still the overall spectrum is not the most efficient we could build but it is the safest and easiest to work with. That said the new lights are still using the best quality LED's and new optical technology unique toXXX I think there will be very few products on the market in the next few years that will come close to them efficiency wise."
"Great question. CREE have the best white lighting solutions available right now due to their high performance royal blue chips, remote phosphor patents and manufacturing techniques. Many of the smaller companies in the industry have started producing full white LED grow lights because of:
- the improvements in white LED's
- simplicity of the bill of material
- the fact it produces a working light which makes it easier to inspect the plants
- there is a range of larger power density emitters which provide a lower cost per watt solution
From our research, producing an LED grow light with just generic white LED's provides similar yields to that of most good quality HPS. High quality deep red LED like the CREE XPE or Lumileds Rebel which can produce light between 650-660nm at over 40%+ efficiency will have a much higher quantum yield per photon, less reflection and is what drives 80%+ of the growth/photosynthesis seen under any XXXX fixture we have produced so far. Monochromatic emitters like deep red are the only ones that can offer energy/yield efficiency advantages of HPS and until new developments in phosphors, blue chips or the stability of quantum dots our lights will most probably include high ratio of quality 650-660nm LED's.
Now that said the important question we faced when designing the XXXXX was whether to use blue or white supplementary LED's. From testing 460nm royal blue LED's produce the most desired results when observing a plants bio physical and bio chemical reactions to light like phototropism or the optimization of Chlorophyll A absorption by increased absorption at Chlorophyll B. Apart from those functions Royal blue really contributes very little to the growth of the plant where a white light spectrum can drive growth and photon absorption at Chlorophyll A and B. However regardless of the white LED's spectrum the efficiency of the emitter can never be as efficient as the Royal Blue LED chip alone due to the remote phosphor. So in short if we choose Royal blue we could use a lower ratio of them and a higher ration of deep red and this would be the most efficient for photosynthesis. Alternatively you can use a slightly higher ratio of white LED's in combination with a proportionally lower number of deep red. Both methods will grow plants at very similar rate per watt with the Deep red/ royal blue being the most efficient.
The big factor for XXXXX using more white LED's over Royal blue is the so that the user has the ability to safely inspect and work in the same area when he lights are turned on with out damaging their eyes. For this we look at the international electronic community standard IEC62471 and the reports companies like CREE produce http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...p/XLamp Application Notes/XLamp_EyeSafety.pdf. These show that shorter higher energy wavelengths like royal blue are the highest risk for eye safety. This is why on the XXXX we decided to go with a Deep red/far red/ royal blue/ white spectrum substituting some deep red and and most of the blue LED's for white LED's. On the new systems we will be going with Deep red/Far Red/White. The white LEDs have a custom binning but still the overall spectrum is not the most efficient we could build but it is the safest and easiest to work with. That said the new lights are still using the best quality LED's and new optical technology unique toXXX I think there will be very few products on the market in the next few years that will come close to them efficiency wise."
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Just answer the question.....what drivers and what diodes with bin #'s. You should be able to cut and paste if they were emailed.
obfuscate to the Mars kid, that shit won't work, just answer the questione'....the drivers not worth a poop, is in my humble opinion only, but change it.....
Did you pay top dollar for diodes that weren't completely identified?
Big smo
Well-Known Member
Look it up if you are so thrilled. There is always one. But since I am always willing to learn which company would you recommend? Go green? That's just foolishJust answer the question.....what drivers and what diodes with bin #'s. You should be able to cut and paste if they were emailed.
obfuscate to the Mars kid, that shit won't work, just answer the questione'....the drivers not worth a poop, is in my humble opinion only, but change it.....
Did you pay top dollar for diodes that weren't completely identified?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
are you retarded? seriously, I question some of the users lately....grow under your unknown diode lamp for a year, then consult us with your "opinion" on how it performs. Thank you, come again.
Still haven't answered the question!!!!!!!!!!! Now I have to look up unknown diodes, how would I go about doing that?
insert username
Well-Known Member
hi all I was thinking of buying 4x cxb3590 db 36v, from our good friends at cutter electronics, and am wondering what driver to buy since they are out of stock on the 250w ones that they have, I have found this hlg-240h-c1400b but idk much about matching drivers with cobs, I would also like to mount these cobs to these heat sinks that is the same one used in the mau5 setup, https://www.cdiweb.com/PortalProductDetail.aspx?ProdId=573584&fmt=1
kachiga
Well-Known Member
I think you are talking about the a are lights? If so I posted a bunch of info just a few pages back.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/if-you-are-new-to-led-and-want-help-choosing-what-to-buy-post-here.633304/page-451#post-12528116
Not sure why all the hate. This thread is for helping there's pick an led that is right for them... No need to put down any light less there are facts that follow =\ Think of the kids!!
For the record I think go green LED's are good. For their price and a banging warrenty and a 180 day return wow. I looked at them among others but I did go with an amare light but only because I felt that would go better with my own set up. I wanted cobs, but something with more then just cobs. It costed a lot more then go green and the others. But in the end it's what I felt suited my needs.
What I posted was my convo with the owner at amare, they have another thread that took the lit apart and such. I been seeing good grows now from them as well so not really unknown light. And yes, seen great things from the other cob companies that I looked at as well.
Just my two cents.
You can email him, they are not on the site. I did post pictures as well here as well as more information. I think they have a pre sale going on as well if you are interested.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/amare-tech-led-pricing-6-26-2015.875400/page-4#post-12528949
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
It looks like Cree xm-l2s to me
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
pffft...for the record I know what diodes are in the Amare and they aren't all listed. Just trying to weed out the spam trolls, having a little fun...I do stay up on specs, been around these parts awhile.
Fuck Ive built more fixtures than most of the trolls have wet dreamed about.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
What's in the amare then? XT-E's?
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ChuckNice
Well-Known Member
It's mostly maui wowie, but its got some labrador in it.
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