Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

purplehays1

Well-Known Member
Genetics...Plants don't turn purple. The purple pigment is already in the plant, you just can't see it because the chlorophyll hiding the color. As soon as the plant stops producing chlorophyll you will start to see the underlying colors. You can kind of see the colors as the plant is growing. For example my Pre 98 Bubba Kush is almost black as it grows. It turns a wonderful deep purple at finish. On the other hand my Agent Orange is a light green and turns yellow during the flush. I had a Green Love Potion strain that ended up a beautiful deep red.

Basically to see the colors you have to get rid of the chlorophyll. Obviously you don't want to do this while it's growing! If you grow outdoors your plants will eventually turn on their own due to nutrient lock-out because of the lower temps. Indoors all you have to do is flush your plants.

Back in my collage days one of my favorite labs was the one about plant pigments. We went out and got a bunch of leaves and ground them up. We added water and used a test strip to suck up the mixture. As the water climbed up the paper it left bands of color depending on the weight of the pigments. So you end up with bands of purple, red, yellow and green. Cool shit!
All True

Also some plants will turn purple under stress, most commonly from cold even without the genetics to grow purple buds in more ideal condiutions. You can also use cold to promote the purple color without stress in strains that have the genetics to be purple by feeding them colder water (not below 50 degrees) and providing cold nighttime temperatures. I used to grow GDP and during the summer months my room would be 5-6 degrees warmer than the rest of the year and to have the GDP get the strong colors we would have to manipulate them with higher AC when lights where off (wasn't able to get lights on temps under 80) and cooler water.
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
Are you currently an Oregon Medical Marijuana card holder? Are you battling cancer or taking care of someone who is? PM me...
 
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Have you ever smoked pot that has that smelled like freshly mowed lawn clippings and had a burning after taste? Did it snap, crackle and pop like a bowl of Rice Crispies?

You just smoked pot that wasn't flushed properly.
I know this is an old post, but a while back I bought some weed from my then weed dealer and it was sparking up like when smoking it and crackled too. He said it was normal, but I knew better. Wasn't sure what was causing it, but assumed it was chemicals of some sort. Now I know why. I'm curious how you know when your plants are "flushed" though. What if it takes 3 weeks and you're only doing 2 weeks? Is there a way to test the plant or weed with some type of meter or tester?
 
The only problem I had was with height and plant support. The plants got too tall for my room and there was no easy way to support them. Maybe build a PVC plant support frame?
I was wondering about the 2 totes too. Thanks for answering that. Again, I know this is an old post, but wondering if you tried using a wire or string grid to support them (Low Stress Training)?

So glad I found this tread (8 years later) as I have been pondering all sorts of grow setups.
 
Sorry for my confusion. I've been reading the posts here, but I don't get what the frame with 4x4 posts is for. You grow the babies in the 1 tote, then move to 2 totes for veg. Do you move the pots from there to the frame for flowering? That's what I don't get as I am not sure how the roots would get in the posts. I'm assuming the frame is another way to grow the seedlings and flower? Could someone explain this as I didn't see it described.
 

letdown shifty

Well-Known Member
Hope all is well with the people that visit this Thread. Been busy finishing up my new grow area since moving earlier this year, and thought I would update with some flowering photos that I took last night during night cycle. Flipped these gals to 11/13 on Aug 24th, saw hairs within the first week. Also of Note, i've got room in my flower room for 4 flower units with a scrog size of 7'x4.5' on each. Should have the second unit filled with 6-8 gals in the coming week. yes, i also know that the scrog in pictures is a bit out of control. That is due to the flower room taking longer to complete than i expected, so some plants were much taller than I wanted. Enough words, on with the pics20160916_222250.jpg 20160916_222311.jpg 20160916_222227.jpg 20160916_222324.jpg
 

letdown shifty

Well-Known Member
Stink,
How is it coming on your seeds? When do you think you'll have some available for purchase? really intrigued to get them in one of my grow racks
-Shifty
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
Stink,
How is it coming on your seeds? When do you think you'll have some available for purchase? really intrigued to get them in one of my grow racks
-Shifty
I'm looking at about 6-8 weeks still. I got a small batch last time but not enough to distribute in quanity. I'll be popping the seeds in a few days. I'm super excited for all of them but especially the Pre 98 Bubba Kush mix. Bubba Cookies is what I'm going to call it. The Blackberry Kush and Grape Ape should be very interesting.

To create a lot of seeds you need a lot of pollen. I thought I could just spray a little on the stems and bam, I'd have male flowers everywhere. Boy was I wrong! I'm learning you need a lot more colloidal silver than I ever imagined. I ended up having to make my own just to be able to afford it. You can make a few thousand dollars worth of Colloidal Silver with less than $20 worth of silver. What I did was buy a couple of pieces of pure 99.99% silver wire. The I soldered the silver to some wires with alligator clips. The clips attach to 5 - 9V batteries connected together in series. I put the wires close together in a jar full of pure distilled water. It doesn't take long before you see a small cloud start coming off of one of the wires. Within a few hours the water will be dark and about 20 ppm. That's a good ratio of silver to water for the plants. It's strong but not so strong as to kill them. No matter what the plants start too look pretty beat up over time. As soon as the plants form a bunch of male flowers stop spraying.

I currently have a bunch of male flowers on my Girl Scout Cookies. I tried feminizing the Pre 98 Bubba Kush but it never took. Right now I have Black Widow, Agent Orange, Pineapple Express, Blue Dream, Blackberry Kush, Green Poison and Grape Ape in the tent ready to get fucked! Male flowers are just starting to open. Before long I'm going to have a full on lesbian transsexual unprotected reverse-gang-bang orgy going on in the tent...

I've learned something interesting. I wasn't spraying the top buds at all but that's where the best male flowers are forming. This tells me that the Colloidal Silver is absorbed into the plant and can travel through the vascular system. I'm wondering if it's possible to water the plant with Colloidal Silver and completely stop all ethylene production and not just near the sprayed areas. I'll have to do some experiments and see what works.
 

letdown shifty

Well-Known Member
@StinkBud Sounds like you're learning the ropes, won't be too much longer and you'll have more seeds than you'll wanna handle. Keep everyone updated on your mad scientist findings, cause I for one enjoy reading about your experiments.
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
My latest article is on the shelves now! It's the November 2016 issue called, "The Brady Bunch". Check out the contents photo, full-page centerfold and a couple of full page photos. I still have a couple of nugs from that Cindy 99 bud in the photo. If anyone wants a rip just let me know and I'll load you one...
 

Bry0n6974

New Member
When the time comes I just pull them up out of the containers and move them into the flower room.

I have 2 - 1000W HPS for a total output of 290,000 lumens. My lights have vented hoods the take the air from one room and vents into the attic. That way my room is totally sealed to keep the CO2 in the room. I use a 440 CFM fan to vent my lights. Lights are run at night to help keep temps down.

I use an A/C unit during the heat of the Summer but don't need it the rest of the year.

I use a complete greenhouse control system with CO2. I keep my CO2 at 1500 PPM during the day cycle.

I keep my humidity below 60% and have a 200 CFM fan that vents into the attic to keep humidity in check.

I'm running 3 separate Aero/NFT systems so I can have 9 weeks flower time and a 3 week perpetual harvest cycle.

I use a cycle timer for the pumps. The timer is set to 1 minute on and 5 minutes off. This allows maximum Oxygen to the roots without letting them dry out.

I made 3 separate Aero/NFT systems using PVC fence posts. The plumbing runs inside and is made from the same 1/2" PVC pipe I use for the cloner. EZ-Clone sprayers between each plant site.

14 plant sites. 396 GPH pump.

The frame is made from 3/4" PVC pipe. 18gal. Rubbermaid container for the reservoir.

Here is my formula for my flower room:

Botanicare Nutrients:
126ml Cal-Mag Plus
150ml Sweet
180ml Liquid Karma
540mlL Pure Bend Pro Bloom

I run 2000 PPM all the way until the flush cycle. Some strains like AK47 can handle over 3000 PPM without burning. Other strains show signs of tip burn at just 1700 PPM. Since I run 10 different strains I set my PPM for a good overall value.

Check out the photos for details on my flower system.

Flushing and harvest next...
Can u give me a full list of materials I will need to build this plz stinkbub
 

powerslide

Well-Known Member
@StinkBud I figured I would ask this question here since I got the idea from you so here it is.. I use root riots/rapid rooters to start seedlings in and then once the root pokes through the bottom I tear the starting plug in half and put the seedling in a neoprene collar and into a low pressure aero setup.. So I had a family emergency I was away and at the hospital for a week and the seeds I started had sprouted and had roots coming out the bottom and sides so I tore apart the root riots piece by piece and I'm wondering if the roots are still going to grow since the roots that were shooting off the main root mostly broke off. View attachment 3803640
I'm not stink but It will probably be fine. I would suggest not doing that in the future. Seedling is the most fragile stage. They would be ok with some hydroton and the rooter when you start from seed.
 

letdown shifty

Well-Known Member
@StinkBud So if I managed to work my way to Oregon, what's the probability of seeing a Stinkbud commercial grow up close. I'm really interested in seeing how a World class operation is ran, as things are moving in towards commercial growing in my state. Not the largest of plant counts, but still something i'd like to work towards.
-Shifty
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
@StinkBud So if I managed to work my way to Oregon, what's the probability of seeing a Stinkbud commercial grow up close. I'm really interested in seeing how a World class operation is ran, as things are moving in towards commercial growing in my state. Not the largest of plant counts, but still something i'd like to work towards.
-Shifty
I don't do commercial, only medical. I'm not really interested in setting up a large grow at this time. It costs tens of thousands of dollars that I don't have. The licence fees alone cost close to $5K. You have to have cameras, security alarms, safes and many more expenses that no one ever thinks about. Where I live you can only set up a commercial grow on properties zoned commercial, agriculture or industrial. No home addresses allowed. You can't even have property zoned partial agricultural.

Let me tell you though...if I could find an investor, someone could make a lot of money! All the major growers can't keep up with the demand. Wholesale prices keep going up but they still buy all they can grow. I'm staying medical for now. There are still a few medical dispensaries around that's where I'd rather be anyway.

On another note... I popped all my seeds and now I have Orange Cookies, Pineapple Cookies, Headband Cookies, Trainwreck Cookies, Grape Cookies, Bubba Cookies, Mystery Cookies and Dreamy Cookies. The plan is to back cross with my Girl Scout Cookies and then take those seed and backcross them one more time. This will give me the stable, F3 back cross squared that I'm looking for. The seeds from that batch should be as stable as an F1 cross
 

batrgrower

Well-Known Member
Alright guys, I dare say I'm ready to make a post here and ask some questions. I've read through this whole thread, all 11k something posts. It's quite a read. Looks like a lot of shit went down over the years.

I've also read through both of SS's larger threads.

Couple things that I haven't really been able to decide on, looking for opinions.

Between Stink and SS they do a lot of similar things but some things are quite different. It seems that Stink's setup has the plants closer together with more plants per rail, whereas SS uses further distance apart with fewer plants.

Has anyone been able to decide which way would be better in regards to yield?

Next thing are nutrients. Stink uses 2000ppm nutrient setup and SS states that anything over 1000ppm is a waste.

So I'm looking to start on a design of a build and get some seeds started but trying to plan ahead with the build to determine what's the best way to utilize space and maximize yield.

I hope to get to know everyone around here as it seems you all are really good people.

Thanks everyone.
 

letdown shifty

Well-Known Member
@batrgrower welcome to the club. Lot's of knowledgeable people call this community home, just remember not everything mentioned is fact or even true. You'll learn by both personal experience, and by asking the community for help if you come across something you don't understand from research. Keep an even keel when you may come across someone having a pissy day, and if you ask "how much will i yield?". You will almost certainly receive an answer "bout a pound".
Now, to answer some questions you had as far as which is better system. Each one of their systems I'm sure went thru multiple changes and do-overs to get what is currently being represented in the threads. I recommend taking what you like from the systems, and designing something that will work for you. As ultimately you need to know the ins and out of your system and where something may go wrong. Then be ready to change that as you go, as you'll almost certainly find something you don't like.
PPM varies a lot on which product line you use. When I was running Botanicare Kind product line I followed the nutrient calculator provided by Botanicare. Which put me in the 1800-2000 PPM mid to late flower, and gave me good results. But since then @ttystikk put me on the path of dry nutrients that cost way less and accomplish the same job, but my PPM tops out at 1500-1600 now.
So, to sum it all up. Welcome, Educate, Learn, Listen, Change, Have Fun, rinse & repeat.

-Shifty
 
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