Leaf issues with pictures. My most problematic grow.

I

iruleyou1

Well-Known Member
I am running a EBB and Flow bucket system with hydroton fed by the same 55 Gallon reservoir so all plants receive the same nutrients. Plants and mid week 6 of flower. I will be giving them one more res change of nutes and then flushing up to 2 weeks as needed.

This grow has by far been the most problematic. I have really good calibrated blu-labs meters PH around 5.8 and have been taking readings and using the same ratios of nutes as last grow. The only thing different is different strains and time of year being cooler. I know strains matter and that's where I think the problem is. My new stuff probably need different nutrients.

I am growing 2 Royal Queen Seeds Green Gelato & 2 Royal Queen Seeds Purple Queen (purple kush).

I would like to note the symptoms in pictures 2 and 3 have plagued me the entire grow. I originally thought it was a cal mag issue. I run 4ml of general Hydroponics Cali-Mag in Veg & 2ml in flower since I use RO water. I actually ran 6ml week 3 of veg to see if it resolved the issue.

The first picture now looks like a phosphorus deficiency to me and being week 6 of flower the plants just started putting on weight fast.

What do you all think? I look at the deficiency charts and they all look the same to me:)

This plant is one of the Green Gelato plants and up until last week was by far my best plant and had hardly any bad symptoms. Now it looks the worst in just days. I was thinking as flowering kicked into overdrive I have a phosphorous deficiency.
IMG_2484.JPG
This was the weaker Green Gelato Plant and now looks like the better one. Pissed I don't have clones of this one now. You can see the same speckling on the leaves which lead me to thinking cal-mag issues entire grow. IMG_2485.JPG
Plant in back. This is my stronger Purple Queen (Purple Kush) and it has the same symptoms as Picture 2 I would like to note I saw this in veg and not just in flower.
IMG_2486.JPG
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
I'd probably want pH to be a little higher. That spotting might be due to micro nute def. Usually leaf tip yellowing is due to over fert, but not sure if that's what's the case as you haven't given your ppm level. Are the nutrients on timed cycle?
 
I

iruleyou1

Well-Known Member
I'm running the general hydroponics flora using this schedule https://www.growweedeasy.com/general-hydroponics-flora-trio-guide. I follow their recirculating schedule to the T & not the general hydroponics one at the bottom of the page. MY PPMs have been stable at 750 for past 3 days since res change with the water level dropping. My PH is pretty stable as well. PH usually raises first day 5.4 and stabilizes around 5.8 so I don't PH up since that always caused it to go too high. I will PH down if the starting PH is too high as when my veg nutes are weaker.

I do a full res change every 7 days & I flood 3 times a day once 30 minutes after lights on and once 30 - hour before lights out.

I add calimagic as I am transferring water from from my 55 gal ro storage barrel. Once the water level is full I add the Micro. I continue adding nutes with a re-circulation pump on & air stones.

I shut the re-circulation pump off the next morning to not heat the water up too much. This is a pump I leave in the bottom of the barrel with a length of tube on it that I connect with a coupler for draining out the door.


Nutes added this week from my notes for 53 gallons of water. I add them in the order below always making sure to add Calimagic first and then Micro. I don't think the rest matter as much based on my reading but this is the order I add them in with a few minutes between. When I use Flora Grow it goes between Micro and Bloom.

Flora Trio
Flower Week 6
calimagic 128ml
Micro 256ml
Bloom 384ml
kool bloom powder = ¼ cup plus 1 tsp or 13 tsp
floralicious 53ml
Hydroguard 106ml

Note: I use cool bloom liquid 106ml or 2ml a gallon weeks 2 - 5 instead of powder. The rest of my ratios are based on the URL above.

I can't really check the current roots because they are in a scrog net now but I never had root problems before in this system after 5 grows. The roots were bright white after transferring from my veg tent in the same system. I use smart ports in my ebb and flow bucket system so I can move them into the flower tent easy.
 
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5BY5LEC

5BY5LEC

Well-Known Member
I would ditch the floralicious and koolbloom.
Use some grow too.
Always use like 200ppm calmag with ro.
Go back to week 6 on that chart and run that. You only need Calmag, GH and Hydroguard.
 
I

iruleyou1

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
I don't have much to tell you but I looked at the GH site for koolbloom and it says to use the powder in late flower. At week 6, you're too early. You might be making a mistake there, if I understand you right.
https://generalhydroponics.com/koolbloom/
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This is week 6 of flower and only one more week before I start flush. Not week 6 of entire grow. Still too early?

5BY5LEC said:
I would ditch the floralicious and koolbloom.
Use some grow too.
Always use like 200ppm calmag with ro.
Go back to week 6 on that chart and run that. You only need Calmag, GH and Hydroguard.
Click to expand...
I have to check my PPMs next res change after just adding the calimag to see what I am reading. Only thing I would like to add is last grow with same stuff doing white widow and og kush I had none of these issues.

What type of deficiency does it look like I have?

I was thinking Magnesium however it could also be Potassium or Phosphorous. I swear some sites posting pictures of deficiencies are reporting the wrong ones.

Would it be bad to foliar feed the calimagic this late into flower if thats what you think it is?

I am trying to learn.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
No, smartass, not too early. But obviously you're doing something wrong there and I think it's adding too much stuff.
 
shawnery

shawnery

Well-Known Member
I really don't think he was being a smart ass. I just really think he was asking you an honest question.

Maybe I'm wrong but I always choose to see things from a positive perspective.
 
70's natureboy

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
Well, you're a little light on the bloom. I guess their recommendations aren't working perfectly for you. I usually use Lucas formula and haven't experimented with less bloom. Koolbloom is tricky stuff. I try it every couple years and usually get funky results and discontinue it for a while. I'm glad I dont have to use hydroguard because I wouldn't trust using that either. If you used the KISS method with Lucas and cal mag you would probably be better off. It's better to be under-fertilized than over-fertilized. You are in the minority there.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
With just one more week of flowering, to ask if the fert you're giving is too early is just a ridiculous thing. How can it be too early when you plan on only one week left of the grow, then flush, then harvest? I don't see how that could have been an honest question. The grow is almost done.
 
I

iruleyou1

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
With just one more week of flowering, to ask if the fert you're giving is too early is just a ridiculous thing. How can it be too early when you plan on only one week left of the grow, then flush, then harvest? I don't see how that could have been an honest question. The grow is almost done.
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I'm polish too so I like to start with bloom nutes and finish up with veg . That is me joking and being a smartass :). Seriously though I wasn't trying to annoy you. It was more to acknowledge you and get a further reply since I didn't think that was the issue but wasn't 100% sure. I do cut a week out of the actual 10 week program I linked so I was wondering that as well.

One thing that has changed is my res temp may be too cold being in an unheated basement in the North East. I bought an aquarium heater today to rule that out but I have not found anything that says cold res temps cause these symptoms outside of stunted growth. The reason I am so confused is I ran the exact same stuff last grow and yielded ~3lb in my 5x5 tent with LED lights and didn't see anything like this. The only thing that changed is time of year being colder and the strains. I am just trying to learn what deficiencies look like so I can treat them and adjust for different stains.
 
I

iruleyou1

Well-Known Member
70's natureboy said:
Well, you're a little light on the bloom. I guess their recommendations aren't working perfectly for you. I usually use Lucas formula and haven't experimented with less bloom. Koolbloom is tricky stuff. I try it every couple years and usually get funky results and discontinue it for a while. I'm glad I dont have to use hydroguard because I wouldn't trust using that either. If you used the KISS method with Lucas and cal mag you would probably be better off. It's better to be under-fertilized than over-fertilized. You are in the minority there.
Click to expand...
Every grow I have run Hydroguard. I started using it my first grow when I did 5 gallon dwc buckets and it cleared up my slime issues so I swear by it now. I was thinking about doing the General Hydroponics Schedule they list at the bottom of the page next grow and taking it down 20%. Is that the Lucas formula?

shawnery said:
Download this program and read up on it but in the mean time I can help you with it as many have with me.

https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2016/03/the-first-free-hydroponic-nutrient-calculator-program-o.html

Atleast this way you'll know that your nutes aren't the problem. I use koolbloom but only after checking my phosphorus and potassium.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll check this out.
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
that feed schedule your using is a little wishy washy and the nutrients and the way your mixing them is your issue

veg per gallon at full strength
7.5 mls grow
5 mls micro
2.5 mls bloom
2.5 ml calmag
0.5 grams epsom salt (for extra magnesium) - roughly 1/4 tsp per 2 gallons

bloom week 1-6
6 mls grow
3 mls micro
6mls bloom
4mls calmag

late bloom week 6-finish (optional)
0 mls grow
6mls micro
12mls bloom
0mls calmag

change the way you mix your nutes to follow these formulas
dont use the kool bloom powder or liquid at all ever and dont add silica ever or youll throw these formulas off

for a higher or lower EC/PPM mix it the same way with more or less water
for example in early veg the formula above might give you 750ppm, if you wish to use it on small young veg plants mix the veg solution the same way but add more water to reduce the ppm to your desired range of maybe 400ppm or whatever your target is

youll use the same veg formuala for all of veg but youll cut the mix with water to reduce the ppm

you could use the same bloom formula for all of bloom or you could change to the optional late bloom formula if you desire a mix with less N in late bloom
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
hydroguard is fine to use

flourilisious is also fine but personally id not use it only becuase i dont like the way it creates muck in the reservior

please do yourself a favor and dont use that kool bloom powder...

the liquid kool bloom can be useful but you realy dont need it
 
Failmore

Failmore

Well-Known Member

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