Aussie High Lights – we're official

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
I don’t want cheap coloured boards. I know how to order from China vendors. I want what I was getting, a quality board at a decent price even if I need to put in a little work to get them that cheap. Gla accomplishes that for me, they weren’t the cheapest board but Hit the sweet spot of quality/cost/work for me.

Personally I could see the old board design being a good budget option than having options for the new boards as plug & play, diy kit, board only etc. catering for more people’s budgets and tastes. As for the time spent on answering diy questions? For legal reasons at the top of print in the biggest boldest lettering “THIS PRODUCT MUST BE ASSEMBLED BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN”, any emails asking assembly questions reply with something similar but polite and pointing people to the plug and play boards.
If you don't think there is any difference between our UV boards and Cutter or HLG or any other 2700-3500K diode, then we still have 14x High Red boards in stock as well as 4x UV boards.

If want them that much, put your money where your mouth is.

And it's not in our nature to fob people off with a warning at the top of the site (which isn't true anyway – you don't need to be an electrician to play with 48V, as it comes under SELV regulations).

I'm sorry, but if people need help we will help them. Our customer service is second-to-none and we pride ourselves very much on it. We are (were) growers and we want to help other growers – that is one of our main motivations for doing this. We are not some big faceless corporation that wants to take your money and not deal with your real-world propblems.
 
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Aussieaceae

Well-Known Member
A single 220W will fill that area. Here it is hanging in a 750mm x 600mm tent. The lights were turned down for the photo and you obviously wouldn't have the driver inside the tent, but it is a nice fit. We are waiting on LED Teknik to produce some IES files for us so that we can start electronic PAR mapping, but the footprint of the new boards is similar to the old boards and the new LEDs produce 20% more light so we have a fair idea already of what the PAR maps will look like.

View attachment 4740281


Here is a PAR map of the old boards in a 750mm x 600mm (2.5'x2') at 400mm hang height (16"). You can add 20% to those PPFD readings for the new lights, and if you hang them a bit higher at 500mm (20") you will have a more even spread. The 2:1 shape of the boards suits a 900mm x 600mm tent.

View attachment 4740285

The 340W side-by-side (square) kits are really suited to a 90cm x 90cm up to 1m x 1m area.
Then 220w it will be. Appreciate the help. Thanks.
 

reza92

Well-Known Member
If you don't think there is any difference between our UV boards and Cutter or HLG or any other 2700-3500K diode, then we still have 14x High Red boards in stock as well as 4x UV boards.

If want them that much, put your money where your mouth is.

And it's not in our nature to fob people off with a warning at the top of the site (which isn't true anyway – you don't need to be an electrician to play with 48V, as it comes under SELV regulations).

I'm sorry, but if people need help we will help them. Our customer service is second-to-none and we pride ourselves very much on it. We are (were) growers and we want to help other growers – that is one of our main motivations for doing this. We are not some big faceless corporation that wants to take your money and not deal with your real-world propblems.
You only have bare board left or I already would have.

If you get any trade ins with heat sinks I’d be interested
 

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
You only have bare board left or I already would have.

If you get any trade ins with heat sinks I’d be interested
We have plenty of the new heatsinks in stock. Same price. The only issue is you would need to drill a few 3mm holes. Other than that, they're 34mm longer, slightly heavier, and will work slightly better than the old heatsinks due to the increase in size and weight. I'm going to put them up on the site later.

As soon as we start getting trade-in boards, there will be a "Clearance" section on the site to sell them. You might also want to PM me before you make up your mind on the new boards, as no-one said we wouldn't be selling them on their own and they are probably not as expensive as you think.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
Said like someone who doesn’t understand physics at all. Energy in = energy out. Both light and heat are energy. So if they’re producing the same heat and consuming the same power they’re producing the same amount of light, spectrum might be different but the energy is the same.
I'm pretty sure a 150w hid still outputs the same heat as a 150w led or 150w halogen or incandescent.. it is the efficiency of the light that allows you to run less wattage which means less heat. In addition the direction the heat is emitted is different with LEDs

I was surprised when I learned this too, be nice though that is a bit rude the way you are talking IMO, especially when you are wrong. You need to do a little homework on this I think. Btu`s per watt of electricity is constant , the efficiency of the light produced is what changes look it up
 

farmingfisherman

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure a 150w hid still outputs the same heat as a 150w led or 150w halogen or incandescent.. it is the efficiency of the light that allows you to run less wattage which means less heat. In addition the direction the heat is emitted is different with LEDs

I was surprised when I learned this too, be nice though that is a bit rude the way you are talking IMO, especially when you are wrong. You need to do a little homework on this I think. Btu`s per watt of electricity is constant , the efficiency of the light produced is what changes look it up
I thought the whole idea of LED vs HPS/MH is that the led's have the ability to be spread out more thereby minimizing hotspots over the over the canopy and being able to dim down without losing spectrum..
 

reza92

Well-Known Member
We have plenty of the new heatsinks in stock. Same price. The only issue is you would need to drill a few 3mm holes. Other than that, they're 34mm longer, slightly heavier, and will work slightly better than the old heatsinks due to the increase in size and weight. I'm going to put them up on the site later.

As soon as we start getting trade-in boards, there will be a "Clearance" section on the site to sell them. You might also want to PM me before you make up your mind on the new boards, as no-one said we wouldn't be selling them on their own and they are probably not as expensive as you think.
How close to the $275 per board/heatsink are the new boards and do you supply the connector so I can crimp my own cables or will I need to source it?

Otherwise I’ll take 2 UV boards and heatsinks and I’ll pm you in the morning to organise payment/delivery.
 

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
How close to the $275 per board/heatsink are the new boards and do you supply the connector so I can crimp my own cables or will I need to source it?

Otherwise I’ll take 2 UV boards and heatsinks and I’ll pm you in the morning to organise payment/delivery.
With 10% GST and the 10% FORUM discount (which cancels out GST), it is very close. As in, identical. And yes, for that you get a non-coated board, plus matching heatsink plus screws plus a matching TE connector plug with 18AWG wires (200mm long). Add $15 for a wate-resistant board. The TE connectors are waterproof.
 

reza92

Well-Known Member
With 10% GST and the 10% FORUM discount (which cancels out GST), it is very close. As in, identical. And yes, for that you get a non-coated board, plus matching heatsink plus screws plus a matching TE connector plug with 18AWG wires (200mm long). Add $15 for a wate-resistant board. The TE connectors are waterproof.
So $275 inc gst for the old (non sale price) vs $275 + gst for the new - forum discount on both? If so that’s a pretty reasonable increase in price. Will you be posting that option on the site or will i need to pm you?
 
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Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
So $275 inc gst for the old (non sale price) vs $275 + gst for the new - forum discount on both? If so that’s a pretty reasonable increase in price. Will you be posting that option on the site or will i need to pm you?
You can PM if you like, or email me at info@growlightsaustralia.com. We've only got a few boards this run to sell as DIY, but once we've got more stock we'll put them up on the website.
 

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure a 150w hid still outputs the same heat as a 150w led or 150w halogen or incandescent.. it is the efficiency of the light that allows you to run less wattage which means less heat. In addition the direction the heat is emitted is different with LEDs

I was surprised when I learned this too, be nice though that is a bit rude the way you are talking IMO, especially when you are wrong. You need to do a little homework on this I think. Btu`s per watt of electricity is constant , the efficiency of the light produced is what changes look it up
Just to set the record straight with my rudimentary understanding of physics, all energy is eventually converted to heat.

150W is 150W and that energy will be released in three forms: convective heat, conductive heat, and radiated heat. Radiated heat takes the form of any electromagnetic wave – including visible light and infrared. Infrared is different to visible light, as it has a frequency that interacts with water molecules that transfers its energy very quickly, but they are still both electromagnetic waves.

That means we feel "hotter" under infrared light because the radiation interacts with our water molecules (similar to a microwave oven) that leads to a fast build-up of energy (heat). Visible light also interacts with our molecules, but most of it is reflected, which means a lot less energy is transferred in the same amount of time. But eventually visible light will be absorbed by each surface it hits and raise its temperature incrementally until all the light is absorbed. Infrared is just absorbed quicker in water.

LEDs emit more radiation in the visible (and PAR) range compared to HIDs. HIDs emit more radiation in the infrared range. LEDs also emit conductive and convective heat, which is released into the atmosphere via anything that touches it, including a heatsink (conductive) and then the air that blows over it (convective). HIDs also emit conductive and convective heat (from the bulb).

Plants absorb light and that energy drives photosynthesis and is stored in the plant. But eventually all that energy is released when the plant dies and the wood composts or burns (exothermic reaction).

What all this means is, 150W of LED will eventually be converted into the same amount of heat as 150W of HID. But HIDs will transfer more heat through infrared radiation that warms the plant's water molecules, whilst LEDs will transfer more photosynthetic energy in the form of PAR that is used for photosynthesis. So a LED will drive more photosynthesis for the same amount of wattage as a HID, and a HID will increase leaf temperatures more than an LED.

The final piece of the puzzle is that any visible light that is not absorbed by the plant will also increase leaf temperatures – that energy is not captured and stored by the plant via photosynthesis, so it starts to vibrate the water molecules in the plant which "heats up". Heat is just a measure of the active state of a molecule, which can be passed on to other molecules. What we fell as "heat" is just a transfer of energy.

A complete and balanced photosynthetic spectrum will drive more photosynthesis with less leaf temperature increase than a narrow spectrum that bombards the plant with high amounts of certain light (blue for example) that cannot be fully absorbed. So even amongst LEDs, a full spectrum will transfer less initial "heat" than a narrow spectrum. That is the simplest explanation I can think of.
 

reza92

Well-Known Member
So true. The laws of physics tell us that 1w = 3.412142 BTU and it makes no difference if it's LED, HPS or a sewing machine.

1w also equals 0.001341022 horsepower, 3600 joules or 859.8452 calories. ;-)
Wait so a 1000w heater produces the same amount of heat as a 1000w led or 1000w hps?

No. Just no. Conservation of Energy mate. Heat and light are both energy. If a light was 100% efficient (which is impossible because physics but that’s another conservation) it would convert all the electrical energy into light and produce no waste energy as heat. If a light is 92% efficient than 92% of the electrical energy is converted to light with the rear lost to waste energy such as heat.

If we change change this to an electrical transformer a transformer that’s 80% vs one that’s 90% efficient both receiving the same input electrical energy the 80% efficient transformer will run hotter and produce less electrical output Than the 90% eff driver for the same input.
 
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reza92

Well-Known Member
1w also equals 0.001341022 horsepower, 3600 joules or 859.8452 calories.
That’s just converting energy units and is technically wrong since watts it’s literally defined as an energy unit over time, or joules per second. 1 watt = 1 joule per second, 1 watt second = 1 joule.
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
Just had a gander at the updates on the web site- fantastic, great info, well laid out, and pricing pretty dam good for an Australian made product with top end specs and spectrum - heaps better than some of the other so called best in market led's out there( according to some blow arse's out there... ) bongsmilie
 
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