Yellow leaves? i did research but i dunno what it is. PLEASE help

CreepyStevie69

CreepyStevie69

Well-Known Member
ok heres the background info...

i just transplanted this into a 3 gallon i think. it was in a clear probably one gal pot. but thats when the problem started.

temp: 78 f
humidity is 68%
i did 2 iron solution foliage sprays. it has iron and calcium and maganeese and something else too i think.

i just flushed them and today was the first time i fed them with fox farm grow big. 1 teaspoon/gallon.

i just dont know what it could be. here are the pics tell me what you think THANK YOU! im worried





it started on the older leaves and now its on the younger ones.

...oh and when i transplanted it i switched from mg organic soil to fox farm ocean forest


EDIT: i meant it started on the younger leaves now its on the older
 
Jeffdogg

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Maybe its a nitrogen problem, If it started on the lower branches/leaves and not on the top its prob something going on in your soil since the bottom branches will get the nutrients before the higher ones up the stalk. What kind of soil did you use? Does it have some kind of time release fertilizer? Still a little new to this so take my word for it just nobody replied yet and thought Nitrogen might be the problem here.

Edit: sorry I didn't see everything you wrote at the bottom. Did you feed it nutes after transplant? Cause that soil got some great stuff in it.
 
CreepyStevie69

CreepyStevie69

Well-Known Member
yeah i flushed it before i transplanted then when i transplanted i gave it one more plain water and an iron spray and then just today i gave it an iron spray and a grow big fert solution.
 
sb101

sb101

Well-Known Member
well it's not a N deficiency if it's going new to young leaves, i would think it might be a little burn? i don't know what the FF soil has in it but the MG coulda burned it and you're still seeing residual from that? has it been getting much worse?
 
CreepyStevie69

CreepyStevie69

Well-Known Member
it was mg organic. there are no ferts in that soil. and ff has nothing but natural stff like bat guano and worm castings and stuff from the ocean. i dont think natural ferts can burn. i think it is getting a little worse... right now i think its on the border of getting worse and getting better depending on what i do to fix it. if its just a burn will it go away with time?
 
Jeffdogg

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
OCEAN FOREST POTTING MIX 1.5 CUBIC FEET This unique potting soil combines the best fertilizers found on land with the finest sea ingredients available. The result is a rich, light, organic potting soil ready to use right from the bag. Ocean Forest Potting mix encourages healthy root growth, disease resistance and leafy foliage. Consists of rich composted forest humus, spaghnum and Norwegian kelp meals - an of course, FOXFARM’s premium earthworm castings. There are even some oyster shells mixed in to ensure a balanced pH. Ocean Forest Potting mix is simply the best soil on the market today. It is 100% organic and natural and grows plants better than any other soil we have ever used. If you are serious about growing the best plants possible you need to be using the best soil available, you need FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest Potting Mix. This soil is VERY popular with our customers. 1 Bag - 1.5 cubic feet Ocean Forest Potting Mix


The ultimate potting soil—everything your plants need, in one bag. Ocean Forest® is a powerhouse blend of premium earthworm castings, bat guano, and Pacific Northwest sea-going fish and crab meal. Composted forest humus, sandy loam, and sphagnum peat moss give Ocean Forest® its light, aerated texture. Start with Ocean Forest® and watch your plants come alive!

Garden tip: Perfect for containers and ready to use right out of the bag. Ocean Forest® is pH adjusted at 6.3 to 6.8 to allow for optimum fertilizer uptake. There’s no need for nitrogen fertilizers at first; instead try an organic blend like FoxFarm Big Bloom™ Liquid Plant Food to encourage strong branching and a sturdy, healthy growth habit.
Click to expand...
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They recommend that you dont even feed it any nutes the first 3 weeks that the plant is in the soil
 
CreepyStevie69

CreepyStevie69

Well-Known Member
dunno ph of soil. those things to test it are like 80 bucks... thats a little bit down on my "to buy" list... the plant is about 3 and a half weeks old and no, no other ferts than what i mentioned.
 
G

greenman3

Well-Known Member
you can actually buy a soil ph tester for about $20 and they also have a paper test strips to test your water and those are only like $5
 
G

greenman3

Well-Known Member
i would just keep a eye on it to and make sure it doesnt get worse. And i would prolly wait about two weeks and then start with some nutes, some thing like10-10-10 and use a very light dosage and work you way up. about a 1/4 of what the nutes say to use. hope this will help good luck!
 
B

Bamstone

Well-Known Member
What is the pH of the water you are using? If it's really high you could be seeing nute lockout. Seems doubtful to me because the plants/soil are not that old.
 
D

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
like this guy ^ i would guess that you're having some pH lockout problems, especially since the plants is still pretty young. since you just transplanted to a larger pot that should help, but not if the pH is a problem from the water that you are using. looks like classic Magnesium deficiency to me...

"Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element


Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.


Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.


Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf."

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buy a digital pH meter. sux, but it can save you a lot of headaches and guess... you can get one for about 65 with shipping and some small bottles of the 7.0 buffer solution from Technika, get the second from the cheapest pH pen, as it compensates for the temperature of the water.
 
N

NoDrama

Well-Known Member
Looks like magnesium def to me, along with some nute burn to boot and maybe a hint of over watering.
 
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