Some think this is Calcium deficiency

wallywonks

Well-Known Member
My first grow. Everything has went well until mid flower - late flower stages with this yellow/orange/brownish spots and then blotchy.

Pics of leaves from 3 plants.

The first 4 is a WW Auto finishing week 7 of flower.
Large orange blotches in the fan leaves and now a couple of the lower ones are fading from dark green to yellowish green.

The 5th and 6th photos are from a WW Auto thats finishing up week 5 of flower. I think this one is light burn because its mainly yellowish and affecting the sugar leaves at the top 2 inches of the Cola. The Mars Hydro light was 15 in from the top on 100%. I reduced dimmer to 75% and removed the pot stand to give it back 3 in and make it 18" from the led light which is what Mars Hydro says to place for flower.

The next 2 are from a Super Skunk that is starting to get the brownish orange spots/blotches.
It is in week 3-4 of flower. Its similar to how the 1st WW Auto started and then it got crazy brown/orange blotches on almost all the fan leaves.

The buds and cola seem ok. I see no bud rot. The one that is starting week 8 of flower has a few sugar leaves on top of cola with purple on the tips.
The overnight temps are 68F in the grow tent. Im still getting some white pistils on the WW Auto that has the crappy looking fan leaves, The calyxs are still swelling.
Last pic will be the 8 week WW Auto cola.

People have told me here that its Calcium deficiency. I just recently added Dolomite lime, Kelp Meal, Fishbone Meal, Gypsum and 1" layer of EWC, I watered that in 3 days ago. Today all but the 8 wk WW Auto needed watered, I mixed 2 tbsp of blackstrap molasses with 1 gallon water pH'd to 6.7. I watered them with that today, 2 gallons total for 3 plants.

The girls are growing really well they are in 1/3 FFOF and 2/3 FFHF that i added about 2 cups of EWC to before I transplanted them,
They have been top dresses with Dr Earth dry ferts in Veg and in preflower. I hit them up with the liquid 1-1-1 from Dr Earth in veg which actually made a couple claw showing N tox. After watering them vetter the claws all went away.

The 8week WW Auto now has upward clawed tips. I did flush her real good as the pH was 6.1 for the runoff and after 2 flushes she was at 6.45pH.
Thats when the yellowing started 2 days later. The orange blotches I have no idea if its nute burn due to N tox cause the leaves were very dark green or if its nute burn necrosis or Calcium def or just the plant is starting to die because its in late flower.

Just worried as the Super Skunk is showing the same spots starting to show.

Thanks for your feedback
Have a Great Day.
 

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Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
you may be trying to stay organic, but at this point, i'd break down and buy a bottle of cal-mag...anything you dress with isn't going to get into play in time to do anything to those plants. dolomite lime takes months to make a significant difference, and so does gypsum. you need to add more into your soil mix before you use it next time, a lot more.
 

wallywonks

Well-Known Member
you may be trying to stay organic, but at this point, i'd break down and buy a bottle of cal-mag...anything you dress with isn't going to get into play in time to do anything to those plants. dolomite lime takes months to make a significant difference, and so does gypsum. you need to add more into your soil mix before you use it next time, a lot more.
Ok I have a bottle of Cal-Mag since I bought GH hydro line nutes to try out hydro after this organic soil grow.
Ill hit her up with the cal mag when her pot dries up a little more. I did water them with Epsom Salts like 6 weeks ago.
But that just gives Mg and S. So yeah I forgot to add Dolomite lime to the Fox Farm soil when I transplanted them.
I top dressed a few tbsp of Dolomite Lime a couple days after the transplant because I realized I forgot it. But probably not enough.
I made some super soil already and its cooking. It has crab meal, oyster shell flour, shrimp meal, dolomite lime, gypsum, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, fishbone meal, fish meal, neem seed meal, langbeinite. basalt rock dust, azomite, and greensand. So it should be pretty good on the Ca. I also made a lighter mix for autos. Just Kelp meal, neem sead meal, crab meal, basalt rock dust with 2 cups per cu ft of a 1/3 dolomite lime and 2/3 oyster shell flour (supposedly this is called the perfect lime because its like 6:1 ratio Ca to Mg.)
 

inth3shadowz

Well-Known Member
I had the same problem with Dr Earth and not giving calmag. I honestly switched to Dyna Gro Foliage Pro with my FFOF and haven't looked back. Dr Earth smelled up my whole house lol.
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Ok I have a bottle of Cal-Mag since I bought GH hydro line nutes to try out hydro after this organic soil grow.
Ill hit her up with the cal mag when her pot dries up a little more. I did water them with Epsom Salts like 6 weeks ago.
But that just gives Mg and S. So yeah I forgot to add Dolomite lime to the Fox Farm soil when I transplanted them.
I top dressed a few tbsp of Dolomite Lime a couple days after the transplant because I realized I forgot it. But probably not enough.
I made some super soil already and its cooking. It has crab meal, oyster shell flour, shrimp meal, dolomite lime, gypsum, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, fishbone meal, fish meal, neem seed meal, langbeinite. basalt rock dust, azomite, and greensand. So it should be pretty good on the Ca. I also made a lighter mix for autos. Just Kelp meal, neem sead meal, crab meal, basalt rock dust with 2 cups per cu ft of a 1/3 dolomite lime and 2/3 oyster shell flour (supposedly this is called the perfect lime because its like 6:1 ratio Ca to Mg.)
She looks bad enough I'd foliar feed her the CaliMagic then give it in your next feed too.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
My first grow. Everything has went well until mid flower - late flower stages with this yellow/orange/brownish spots and then blotchy.

Pics of leaves from 3 plants.

The first 4 is a WW Auto finishing week 7 of flower.
Large orange blotches in the fan leaves and now a couple of the lower ones are fading from dark green to yellowish green.

The 5th and 6th photos are from a WW Auto thats finishing up week 5 of flower. I think this one is light burn because its mainly yellowish and affecting the sugar leaves at the top 2 inches of the Cola. The Mars Hydro light was 15 in from the top on 100%. I reduced dimmer to 75% and removed the pot stand to give it back 3 in and make it 18" from the led light which is what Mars Hydro says to place for flower.

The next 2 are from a Super Skunk that is starting to get the brownish orange spots/blotches.
It is in week 3-4 of flower. Its similar to how the 1st WW Auto started and then it got crazy brown/orange blotches on almost all the fan leaves.

The buds and cola seem ok. I see no bud rot. The one that is starting week 8 of flower has a few sugar leaves on top of cola with purple on the tips.
The overnight temps are 68F in the grow tent. Im still getting some white pistils on the WW Auto that has the crappy looking fan leaves, The calyxs are still swelling.
Last pic will be the 8 week WW Auto cola.

People have told me here that its Calcium deficiency. I just recently added Dolomite lime, Kelp Meal, Fishbone Meal, Gypsum and 1" layer of EWC, I watered that in 3 days ago. Today all but the 8 wk WW Auto needed watered, I mixed 2 tbsp of blackstrap molasses with 1 gallon water pH'd to 6.7. I watered them with that today, 2 gallons total for 3 plants.

The girls are growing really well they are in 1/3 FFOF and 2/3 FFHF that i added about 2 cups of EWC to before I transplanted them,
They have been top dresses with Dr Earth dry ferts in Veg and in preflower. I hit them up with the liquid 1-1-1 from Dr Earth in veg which actually made a couple claw showing N tox. After watering them vetter the claws all went away.

The 8week WW Auto now has upward clawed tips. I did flush her real good as the pH was 6.1 for the runoff and after 2 flushes she was at 6.45pH.
Thats when the yellowing started 2 days later. The orange blotches I have no idea if its nute burn due to N tox cause the leaves were very dark green or if its nute burn necrosis or Calcium def or just the plant is starting to die because its in late flower.

Just worried as the Super Skunk is showing the same spots starting to show.

Thanks for your feedback
Have a Great Day.
Sounds like you're loving them to death.
 

wallywonks

Well-Known Member
I used my soil pH probe and 2 of the plants were just under 6. I flushed them today and the pH is slightly above 6 now. My tap water pH is around 8 and I was pHing it to 6 5. I'm going to pH it to 7 from now on. I'll keep an eye on the pH with the meter now. The one skunk plant I topped that has shown very nice flowering had a pH of 6.4.

That other WW Auto with severe calcium issues I flushed her last week because her pH was below 6.

I'm going to chalk this up as a pH lockout. Especially since I forgot to buffer the FF soil with Dolomite lime in the beginning.

Lesson learned. Next soil grow should be even better after getting a little experience with issues.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I used my soil pH probe and 2 of the plants were just under 6. I flushed them today and the pH is slightly above 6 now. My tap water pH is around 8 and I was pHing it to 6 5. I'm going to pH it to 7 from now on. I'll keep an eye on the pH with the meter now. The one skunk plant I topped that has shown very nice flowering had a pH of 6.4.

That other WW Auto with severe calcium issues I flushed her last week because her pH was below 6.

I'm going to chalk this up as a pH lockout. Especially since I forgot to buffer the FF soil with Dolomite lime in the beginning.

Lesson learned. Next soil grow should be even better after getting a little experience with issues.
What kinda pH probe do you have?
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Calcitic lime is best for faster soil PH change. Doloimite for long term. Thats why in general its best to use both Calcitic, and Dolomite. Exception is clay soil. Dolomite will cause the soil to become like concrete. Calcitic wont.

Excessive magnesium (contained in dolomite) can be detrimental by (1) causing some clay soils to crust, reducing aeration, (2) releasing soil nitrogen by causing formation of gaseous nitrogen oxides, (3) causing both phosphorus and potassium deficiencies in the soil, (4) causing effects similar to magnesium deficiency, (5) combining with aluminum to form a substance in plants toxic to livestock, (6) long with low calcium, allowing organic matter to form alcohol and formaldehyde when it decays, killing soil bacteria, (7) interfering with plants’ absorption of calcium and potassium, and (8) by taking the place of calcium in plant cells, giving rise to poor quality crops.”

Combining Calcitic, and Dolomite is generally the best combination.

Use 2/3 Calcitic, to 1/3 parts Dolomite.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I used my soil pH probe and 2 of the plants were just under 6. I flushed them today and the pH is slightly above 6 now. My tap water pH is around 8 and I was pHing it to 6 5. I'm going to pH it to 7 from now on. I'll keep an eye on the pH with the meter now. The one skunk plant I topped that has shown very nice flowering had a pH of 6.4.

That other WW Auto with severe calcium issues I flushed her last week because her pH was below 6.

I'm going to chalk this up as a pH lockout. Especially since I forgot to buffer the FF soil with Dolomite lime in the beginning.

Lesson learned. Next soil grow should be even better after getting a little experience with issues.
And why do you think you need to add lime to FF soil?
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Not sure the brand but I have a 2 prong soil probe and a digital pH probe
If it's looks like this it's useless. Well I've heard it's OK for the moisture meter.

 

wallywonks

Well-Known Member
If it's looks like this it's useless. Well I've heard it's OK for the moisture meter.

Looks like the one. The other is digital and I use it to test runoff ph
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
I got a bluelab soil pen and it's garbage in my opnion. stick a regular ph pen in moist-wet medium works better, or water slowly until enough to collect runoff to test has been good to me to.

i have the cheap analog one and i dont think it works.
 
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