MrHowardMarks' experienced grower journal.

SlikWiLL13

Well-Known Member
MHM - yeah like the doc said, be ready to flush. that mix sounds kinda hot to me. i run it like he says except im hydro so i just feed gravity for three days and change the rez.

2 questions - i heard its not necessary/good to use fulvic past wk 3 of flower and superthrive isnt great for flowering either.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Yeah, hey Doc...

I know the fungi and bacteria needs to be established early on, I was just regretting not having the money to use it when I started...

Yeah, I hope I didn't burn the shit outta them... That's odd you need to lower the ppm that much, I wonder why, and have no idea...

This is the most important stage of growth and I want to make sure they have everything they need. I'll be paying close attention for signs of nute burn... But the way they've been eating, I doubt it'll be an issue.

You're scaring me a bit doc, I hope I didn't burn the shit outta them.





BTW, I'll post up some pics tomorrow.


They're starting to chunk up nicely, and you'll be able to see the cola formations. The purpleing blueberries are getting dense and frosty already, and there's still 3 weeks left, everything going to turn out like I expected...

The Super Skunks are really starting to pack it on as well. It's growing similar to the Sensi Stars I grew, the bud formations are almost identical, but the aroma is way different.

Speaking of aroma, the growroom is smelling dank as fuck, the rest of the basement is fine, with the carbon filter, and the ona going...

Yeah Doc, I noticed the Ona loses a bit of scent day by day... I'm only using it this week though, I just got a new roof put on the house, and there are some guys coming to do some plaster repair... So I have to step up the odor control a few notches...


Fucking insurance claim from a wind storm back in September, took until this week to get the work done. There's a decent amount of plaster work to be done to the ceilings, I'd do it myself, but the insurance covered it, and it's a ton of work I'd rather let someone else do...

So the basement is gonna be on lockdown, and reeking of Ona.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Superthrive is just hormones, I don't see any good evidence of not using it, I've never had a problem with it at a drop per gallon dose.

And I've never heard of not using Humic/Fulvic past week 3, I use it throughout the whole cycle, it aides in nutrient uptake...

So, does anyone know what is in Gravity? It says it's just B vitamins and Kelp, but I know better just by looking at it, it looks like oil. And why does it have such a drastic effect on your feeding levels?

It didn't change the PPMs...?


I really hope I didn't fuck myself... It said raise lights and cut the feeding in half...
I figured dropping it down a bit would be good enough since I fed it at a low strength... I'll have to wait a few days to see what happens...
 

SlikWiLL13

Well-Known Member
dont wait for signifigant burn to flush, this stuff likes to hang on by its nails. if you start to see any burn give em a flush of biblical proportions. first time i used the stuff i waited a day after i saw burn to flush, flushed for 4 days w/phed water, and still had burning thru harvest.

good luck, i got my fingers crossed.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Hmmmmm...

I would never have thought it would be that serious...

Hopefully they can handle it...



It also says on the bottle to not use it if your plants are stressed, or not growing well. I'm guessing that might have something to do with excess burn... And I've been using Sensizym, so that might help a bit...


There really isn't that much food in the total feeding of the plants... As in NPK food.

There's probably just 400ppm or so of actual base nutrient, the rest is just supplements and beneficials...



So...



If you were only using a 2 part or organic base, and the soluable nutes... The ppm would've been around 400-500... So I'm hoping that they won't burn, I don't have that much actual food in there compared to the supplements.

And the CalMag supplement might help out a bit along those lines.


I don't think they'll be burned now that I think of it.


If I were to feed at 350ppm it would be pretty much just a flush watering...


I'll tell you all one thing, if it burns them, I'm not going to use it ever again... There's no way I'll change my program that drastically just for harder denser buds.


WTF is Gravity?

Nuclear waste?!?
 

Heads Up

Well-Known Member
-Thanks AfroSamurai (sweet anime) I hope to see if there's any differance.

-Rhollin1-
Well, to explain better...

The Iguana Bloom is the base nutrient, it contains the N-P-K, compariable to Fox Farm- Grow Big, or Earth Juice - Grow, or any other single part organic fertilizer... You can just use this as a complete regiment, all the other ingredients are beneficials.

Mother Earth (Grow/Bloom) - another base nutrient.

AN Humic/Fulvic Acid - Soil buffers, benefical for nutrient uptake.

AN Barricade - it's Potassium Silicate, which aids in nutrient uptake, and cellular growth.

AN Carboload- basic carbs (sugars) that feed the beneficials in the soil, it doesn't really directly get absorbed by the plant.

AN Sensizym - typical enzyme that breaks down organic matter in the soil so the plant can eat it.

AN Tarantula - benefical bacteria, stimulates root growth, eats carboload.

AN Piranha - benefical fungus, stimulates root growth, eats carboload.

AN B52, or Organic B - B vitamins, stimulates growth etc.

AN Sweet Leaf - Molasses mixture.

You don't have to use all of these products to have great results, mainly with organics you are more focused on soil composition. The soil is as alive as the plant, and it is what feeds the plant, not just the NPK that you put into the soil.

This is why with organic soil grown ganja, you'll end up with better tasting weed... IMO

:leaf:
Would worm castings accomplish much of the same? More or less bringing the soil to life, bringing beneficial micro-organizisms and making available the minor nutrients needed by the plants?
 

Heads Up

Well-Known Member
Oh, and pardon the intrusion. This is back from post three hundred and something. I've been reading through your thread.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
No problem man... It's definately a long thread... You've got three-four weeks left until I harvest, so there's still plenty of time.


Basically worm castings are a really good substitution for a growing medium mixture in place of ordinary topsoil.

It has a NPK ratio of 1-0-0 so yeah, there's a wee bit of nitrogen in it... But not enough to be a main source of food.

There are tons of different medium mixtures. And tons of different ingredients that can be used in a mix... I know a few good ones.

A really cheap basic one is just peat moss and perlite and pulverized lime... For pH. That's what I'm using right now... It's a 50/50 ratio of perlite and peat, and 30 mL (2 tablespoons) of pulverized lime per 5 gallons... Or, a bucket full... Easy measuring cup.


Another really good mix, that can't be easily disposed of because of rockwool bits is this...

1 bale of Promix
4 cu ft (bale) of perlite
2 coco coir cubes
4 cu ft (bale) rockwool bits
40 lbs worm castings

It's a bit expensive, but the soil is pH balanced, and super airy... The only thing is it's hard to dispose of, it doesn't look much like soil, looks like a bunch of rabbit shit kinda...


--- To get back to your question. bongsmilie :joint: ---

No, worm castings alone won't create a bioculture in the soil... You'll need to innoculate them yourself.

Pirahna is a fungal spore, Tarantula is a bacterial culture, both feed on basic carbohydrates, like AN's carboload or basic supermarket items like; molasses, sucanat, raw cane sugar...

The rhizosphere is what's important, it's the fuzzy part of the root, where everything is absorbed... Having a good subculture in the soil will create a better ability to intake nutrients, and stimulate substantial root growth.

At least...



That's what I've been told...



Who know's if any of it's true except scientists, and they could be lying.

But I did notice a huge benefit from using the fungus and bacteria, especially with a completely organic lineup...




The bacteria and fungus further breakdown the nutrients so they are more easily absorbed...





Along with ENZYMES it's a win, win, and your plant's are gonna eat like Kobaiyashi (the hot dog guy)

Enzymes break down nutrients that are too large to be absorbed by the plant, and they also eat at dead roots, and other shit (literally) in the soil. Definately a must have for peak feeding ability.


Alright...




Class dismissed.



It's been awhile since class was in session...


Now, who want's to get the teacher high for extra credit? :mrgreen:


All statements haven't been researched, and are from memory, this whole journal is unresearched babble, all learned from experience
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Dr. Hornby is a badass, all of his products are well worth the costs, and many companies are working an replications of his products...

In my own opinion, buying a replica is a waste of money, even if it works the same as Hornby's products... Because he's doing the painstaking research to create products like Voodoo and Scorpion juice... Yes, they're expensive, but use them exactly following the feeding chart and you'll understand why it's worth the money.


I've been getting tired of people saying how expensive it is, people who've never used the whole line, and have no idea.

For example, my buddy just kieffed his trim leaf on a silkscreen and measured the weights;

For 1 ounce trim leaf, he averaged 8 grams of kief...

THAT... Is impressive.

His trim looks better than any weed I've ever had from anyone who doesn't use the complete AN lineup.

I am noticing a very similar growth pattern with my plants without Hornby's products, but I have a really good gut feeling the resin production won't be nearly up to par with the Hornby beneficials...

And I assure you, I'll be making the investment in the complete line after this harvest.


I made a pretty slow switchover to AN throughout this grow, money was tight, so I tried to keep it as simple as possible, and invested about 150 a week into improvements...


Everything can always be improved upon...


Don't settle for less...
 
Hey sorry to post on your journal.. If you like the guest house, check out my van I posted pics in wackymacks thread.. him and I have kinda have a inside joke together but check out my overly wooded conversion van I did this in high school.. I still have it... I will never sell it.. To many backseat memories...lol you'll like it.. I was going to stain it but never finished

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/149601-real-how-auto-strains-11.html
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Right on I'll give it a look, sucks about the clusterfuck in your room... Was too much spray paint to the brain the culprit?


I've gotten myself accidently high on paint plenty of times, I fucking hate it.


Why in hell would kids huff paint for fun, it sucks ass!
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
I wanted to add that I'm not too worried about burn from the nutes/Gravity...


My friend peaks at 2000 and doesn't burn his plants... Don't know how, but he does, he's the one who uses the expensive rockwool bit mix...

My total feeding was pretty much 200 ppm of AN 2part, 100 ppm of Tiger Bloom, and about 50 ppm Big Bloom... Plus 100 ppm SensiCal... And everything else...

My tap water reads 250-300ish, and my feeding was 950-1000, so my nutrient mix was around 700 ppm... 400 of which were base nutes.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Damn MoG, you were ripping on that guy and had no idea what you were talking about... Tisk tisk...


I further explained autoflowering strains and Cannabis Ruderalis in the thread you linked, where your van is...
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
All the plants enjoyed the watering last night.

None of the tips were pointing down, they were all worshipping the light...

You'll get to see tomorrow.


The new simpson's is about to come on in a bit, and I have shit to do...
 
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