37 days into flowering and now this!!Need help figuring it out.

[humble learner]

All these posts and not one focused at the real issue, the NPK values of the plant food. My best guess is not enough N.

Are you screwing them up with "bloom" foods?

tio

It could be not enough N, but if his ph is at 6 his plant isn't going to utilize the nutrient as well as it would if the ph was 5.6.

Thats why I suggest flushing with 5.6 to get the ph down where it should be then see if it's a N defiency.

 

[humble learner]

Tomorrow is the day I normally change out the res( 10 gallons) and give them fresh nutes, I just add 4 gallons of ph'ed water to what was left of the nutes in the res, trying to dilute the nutes till tomorrow.

Did you check your ph in your reservoir before you added the ph'd water?

Did you check the ph in your res after adding the ph'd water?

PH IMO is one of the biggest factors in affecting plant growth ESP in hydro.

 

[Uncle Ben]

I think the General Hydroponics stuff is pretty tame with the NPK values - like 0-5-2 or some such for the flowering mixture (at least the one they sell at the grow shop I usually go to) . . . but FOUR feedings a day seems like it might be a bit over the top . . .

A 0-5-2 will NOT support leaves. Now, if your blending foods (the game GH and the rest play to increase profits rather than selling one complete fertilizer product) then you should know the total NPK ratios of what the plants are seeing.

Nothing else matters in this game except the support and retention of healthy leaves until harvest.

"Tame" is not the issue, proper nutrition is. I use foods like 35-5-10, 30-10-10, 25-10-25. By "normal" standards those would be considered "harsh". But I buy from reputable vendors who offer high quality salts, match the rate and frequency of application with plant requirements regarding rate of growth, size, etc. IOW, if a plant is bulking up rapidly, then it requires more salts. If not like in the young juvenile stage or during late flowering, then you back off.

UB

 

[CanadianBacon]

Amen to that

 

[steelherman]

Did you check your ph in your reservoir before you added the ph'd water?

Did you check the ph in your res after adding the ph'd water?

PH IMO is one of the biggest factors in affecting plant growth ESP in hydro.

I checked it after I add the filtered water and then adjusted the ph to 6.

 

[steelherman]

A 0-5-2 will NOT support leaves. Now, if your blending foods (the game GH and the rest play to increase profits rather than selling one complete fertilizer product) then you should know the total NPK ratios of what the plants are seeing.

Nothing else matters in this game except the support and retention of healthy leaves until harvest.

"Tame" is not the issue, proper nutrition is. I use foods like 35-5-10, 30-10-10, 25-10-25. By "normal" standards those would be considered "harsh". But I buy from reputable vendors who offer high quality salts, match the rate and frequency of application with plant requirements regarding rate of growth, size, etc. IOW, if a plant is bulking up rapidly, then it requires more salts. If not like in the young juvenile stage or during late flowering, then you back off.

UB

UB my total NPK is 7-6-10 a whole lot lower than the stuff you use. You recommend that before I grow again I should reserch the most important side of growing. I admitt that I spent more time reading about l grow room design, systems lights and humidity and ventalation then on nutes. I played it safe and went with what I seen advertised in the sites and mags. Feel free or do me a favor and drop any link you think will help, the last one was great but if you have more then it would be greatly appreciated.
My plants are in the bulking up phase so should I bulk up the (N)? What nute do you recommend? Sorry for my asking so much but you are well respected as a grower so thats why I ask.
Thanks for the advise UB.

 

[humble learner]

A 0-5-2 will NOT support leaves. Now, if your blending foods (the game GH and the rest play to increase profits rather than selling one complete fertilizer product) then you should know the total NPK ratios of what the plants are seeing.

Nothing else matters in this game except the support and retention of healthy leaves until harvest.

"Tame" is not the issue, proper nutrition is. I use foods like 35-5-10, 30-10-10, 25-10-25. By "normal" standards those would be considered "harsh". But I buy from reputable vendors who offer high quality salts, match the rate and frequency of application with plant requirements regarding rate of growth, size, etc. IOW, if a plant is bulking up rapidly, then it requires more salts. If not like in the young juvenile stage or during late flowering, then you back off.

UB

Do you use metrop or have you heard of it? Its food values are really high(10-40-20) for grow and 10-20-40 for bloom. its about $250 for the 5 bottle line.

homepage: http://www.metrop.nl/2_uk/1_home_uk.html

change language in upper right hand corner.

 

[steelherman]

Checked it out, now after reading that I will try to keep myy ph at about 5.5, Nutes were the 5 part line , do you know of a line that is a single part?

 

[Uncle Ben]

Do you use metrop or have you heard of it? Its food values are really high(10-40-20) for grow and 10-20-40 for bloom. its about $250 for the 5 bottle line.

homepage: http://www.metrop.nl/2_uk/1_home_uk.html

change language in upper right hand corner.

What a rip. I pay $18 for 25 lbs. of a 20-10-20 with micros delivered to my door, all contained in one bag. What's with this 5 bottle crap?

An as aside, anyone believing a 10-40-20 is a "grow" food needs to go back to skinning potatoes.

UB

 

[Uncle Ben]

UB my total NPK is 7-6-10 a whole lot lower than the stuff you use. You recommend that before I grow again I should reserch the most important side of growing. I admitt that I spent more time reading about l grow room design, systems lights and humidity and ventalation then on nutes.

Your source for info is the problem.

 

[humble learner]

What a rip. I pay $18 for 25 lbs. of a 20-10-20 with micros delivered to my door, all contained in one bag. What's with this 5 bottle crap?

An as aside, anyone believing a 10-40-20 is a "grow" food needs to go back to skinning potatoes.

UB

its called a biological fertilizer try not to be so close minded. organic growers are calling it the new gen of organic fertilizer and so far results for me have been superior.

Biological fertilizers are not chemical based and are generally comprised of materials and extracts derived from natural sources. Generally they are broad spectrum and non-toxic to animals, plants and humans. For example, CB-FVR and CB-RSG contain beneficial microorganisms (BM), a mixed cultured solution with macro and micro nutrients, amino acids, enzymes, proteins, vitamins and minerals. The ingredients are materials and extracts derived from natural sedimentary deposits of organic origin. They are safe for the environment and are non-toxic to animals plants and humans.

 

[rotwiler]

Look up the Lucas method when using gh flora series, works great and I don't use the grow, only micro and bloom. I have been slightly changing it, so now I am using 5 micro/15 bloom and I add 5 kool bloom. When I did use the grow in it I had issues with too much nitrogen.

 

[Uncle Ben]

its called a biological fertilizer try not to be so close minded. organic growers are calling it the new gen of organic fertilizer and so far results for me have been superior.

Biological fertilizers are not chemical based and are generally comprised of materials and extracts derived from natural sources. Generally they are broad spectrum and non-toxic to animals, plants and humans. For example, CB-FVR and CB-RSG contain beneficial microorganisms (BM), a mixed cultured solution with macro and micro nutrients, amino acids, enzymes, proteins, vitamins and minerals. The ingredients are materials and extracts derived from natural sedimentary deposits of organic origin. They are safe for the environment and are non-toxic to animals plants and humans.

"New generation" of just another snake oil. They're a dime a dozen. It's all about the money.

Organics are useless unless they offer chemicals (salts) initially or can be converted into usable salts thru some kind of chemical reactions, microbial activity, i.e. - blood meal.

Botany is all about 16 essential elements for plant growth/health, not some emotionally driven pie-in-the-sky "safety" sales pitch designed to appeal to idealogues with deep pockets.

UB

 

[Uncle Ben]

Look up the Lucas method when using gh flora series, works great and I don't use the grow, only micro and bloom. I have been slightly changing it, so now I am using 5 micro/15 bloom and I add 5 kool bloom. When I did use the grow in it I had issues with too much nitrogen.

I know all about "the Lucas method". I and some others at a forum called ADPC was the one that taught "Lucas" everything he knows about plant culture about 14 years ago. Back then he went by the handle of "newbie", I went by the handle of "Kip". A hydro guy by the name of pH was his mentor and had quite a following at this cannabis growing bulletin board, the precursor to today's Vbulletin coded cannabis forums.

pH was GH pimp, totally closed minded when it came to soil culture. Any one old enough to remember the soil versus hydro wars he (pH) and I used to have can chuckle about it now.

UB

 

[cowboylogic]

Just asked my girl if she added some super thrive to this last batch of nutes without me knowing,,,,she said she did,but only the amount for what we have.So is that considered bloom food. I have it because I was trying to save another plant I had going but it was to late.

NEVER use superthrive during the trans or flowering stages. Prolongs full maturity forever! Can acutally add weeks to the flower cycle thus bettering the chance of salt buildups and nute issues. Superthrive is great for seedlings and transplant during veg, but thats it.

 

[sedate]

What a rip. I pay $18 for 25 lbs. of a 20-10-20 with micros delivered to my door, all contained in one bag. What's with this 5 bottle crap?

I can't agree more.

Some people I work with use ~$800 worth of fertilizers/soil for a kilo of cured bud.

I've recently gotten into mixing up my own fertilzers from organic base ingredients - blood, bone meal, sea kelp, etc. - but this largely so I don't have to lie when I say "yes it's organic" - but still a kilo of cured medical grade bud generally runs me ~$40 for the entire grow - instead of GH's $40 for two weeks worth of 0-5-2.

I mean wtf. 0 nitrogen. WTF.

 

[Uncle Ben]

I can't agree more.

Some people I work with use ~$800 worth of fertilizers/soil for a kilo of cured bud.

There's a sucker born every minute or as they say, "a fool and his money are soon departed."

I've recently gotten into mixing up my own fertilzers from organic base ingredients - blood, bone meal, sea kelp, etc. - but this largely so I don't have to lie when I say "yes it's organic" - but still a kilo of cured medical grade bud generally runs me ~$40 for the entire grow - instead of GH's $40 for two weeks worth of 0-5-2.

I mean wtf. 0 nitrogen. WTF.

I do the same, by feel, looks, and smell. I don't split hairs. Biggest expense is commercial potting soil and stuff I use to bulk up the total mix or change the final soil structure, like vermiculite and perlite.

Yeah, O nitrogen! Aint it a hoot!

Look guys, if ya gotta have a hydro product, then choose a one-in-all bottle that was designed for proper plant nutrition having 16 essential elements. All you need is two ratios - 9-3-6 and a 3-12-6. Read it and weep: http://www.dyna-gro.com/

UB

 

[cowboylogic]

I can't agree more.

Some people I work with use ~$800 worth of fertilizers/soil for a kilo of cured bud.

I've recently gotten into mixing up my own fertilzers from organic base ingredients - blood, bone meal, sea kelp, etc. - but this largely so I don't have to lie when I say "yes it's organic" - but still a kilo of cured medical grade bud generally runs me ~$40 for the entire grow - instead of GH's $40 for two weeks worth of 0-5-2.

I mean wtf. 0 nitrogen. WTF.

0 nitrogen because it one part of a three part nutrient program. The ole 3-2-1 during veg. Then 1-2-3 during flower. Grow, Micro, Bloom each repectively.

 

[Uncle Ben]

NEVER use superthrive during the trans or flowering stages. Prolongs full maturity forever! Can acutally add weeks to the flower cycle thus bettering the chance of salt buildups and nute issues. Superthrive is great for seedlings and transplant during veg, but thats it.

Superthrive contains Indolebutric acid (sp), a synthetic hormone, and Vitamin B1. It works (some say it doesn't) by synthetically inducing cell division and elongation and is often used as a root stimulator. I know of no scientific basis of it affecting the flowering response which is driven by a hormone called phytochrome.

Regards,
UB

 

[cowboylogic]

There's a sucker born every minute or as they say, "a fool and his money are soon departed."



I do the same, by feel, looks, and smell. I don't split hairs. Biggest expense is commercial potting soil and stuff I use to bulk up the total mix or change the final soil structure, like vermiculite and perlite.

Yeah, O nitrogen! Aint it a hoot!

Look guys, if ya gotta have a hydro product, then choose a one-in-all bottle that was designed for proper plant nutrition having 16 essential elements. All you need is two ratios - 9-3-6 and a 3-12-6. Read it and weep: http://www.dyna-gro.com/

UB

As far as that goes. Good soil to start. FF Tigerbloom, dolomite and greensand. I have grown some very nice buds with just these 4 things. Cant forget rain water. Sometimes less is truely more. We far too often try to out think our plants instead of just paying attention too them.