For All Cap Ebb and Grow Users

[xceptional]

Does anyone use an airstone in the res? The hydro store I go to has one massive 70psi on continuously. The man swears by it, that growth is improved. I thought the ebb/flow action , the draining in the res along with the hydroton is good enough. I have 1 girl who is droopy so I dug down and the roots look light brown, not serious rot but may be on its way. She is the only one left in this grow. My 2 others were male. The males roots were fine. (they are of course history)

Should I go for the stone/air or would h202 be good enough? Any quick root repair method up your sleeves? Thanks

from my understanding h2o2 does NOT provide oxygen to the root zone it is not in a form they can uptake like oxygen provided by adding a airstone. airstones are cheap so i added one even though i swore against it.

my reason for not wanting to add was was my future intention of running the House Garden line of nutes and they say to not airaite your res with their nutes. went to walmart and picked up a pump and stone for under $30 and it's designed for a 30-60 gal res. works fine and i cant say i noticed any difference.

 

[morrisgreenberg]

for the sake of keeping the water stirred up put one in, in my view, the more O2 in the water the better, roots explode from extra oxy

 

[GreenThumbSucker]

from my understanding h2o2 does NOT provide oxygen to the root zone it is not in a form they can uptake like oxygen provided by adding a airstone. airstones are cheap so i added one even though i swore against it.

my reason for not wanting to add was was my future intention of running the House Garden line of nutes and they say to not airaite your res with their nutes. went to walmart and picked up a pump and stone for under $30 and it's designed for a 30-60 gal res. works fine and i cant say i noticed any difference.

H2O2 is awesome stuff for aeration. Just have to use it sparingly. I did an experiment with it years ago that proved to me that it is used by the roots. I had some plants growing in pisspoor draining potting soil that were taking 5 or 6 days to dry out between waterings. I started adding a teaspoon per gallon of H2O2 to my fertilizer water and they went from using it over 5 days to drying out every 24 hours. I had to water them daily when I added the H2O2.

H2O2 provides oxygen, period. O2 is O2. Hydrogen is merely water with an extra oxygen molecule. The oxygen is unstable in the H2O2 form so it rapidly lets go of the extra oxygen molecule, thus oxygenating your solution.

Look at the Ebb and Grow journal in my tagline to see how I use it. I add one tablespoon to my reservoir every day or two. Keeps it sterile and saturated with oxygen. Oxygen to the roots is what makes hydroponics work better than dirt.

 

[morrisgreenberg]

you know what i used to do when i had potted plants in dirt that were over watered? added 35% peroxide to water and fed, this was the only way to get o2 into the rootzone without having to wait a few days

 

[patlpp]

Thanks guys for all the help. I looked into H2O2 in my area and 35% grade is running $25 1/2 liter. The airstone/pump is too expensive at this time. I am running at extreme small scale at the moment. If I was to get the air pump/stone, I would want it to handle 40 gallons + for future grows.

For the time being, what do you think of me using Dutch Master Zone. It's 25$ for a full liter and it has instructions to repair immediate damage. It's ongoing maintenance doses are 2ml/gal. Like I say, I'm not at the extreme rot point, just mild. Sounds economical if it works.

Additionally, does anyone know the half-life of h2o2 in a reservoir? Would it not dissipate quickly so you would have to dose just before feeding?

 

[morrisgreenberg]

peroxide in water will go 3-4 days before that extra oxygen molecule dissipates, if you got shit going on with your roots bro do not fuck around, go get the hygrozyme, forget everything else, its $45 a qt but worth its weight in gold, your roots may be suffering because you dont have an airstone in there, you can pick up a pump and stone at walmart, hydrostores carry the littles for 11bucks and 6 for the stone. from a gentleman on another thread talking about hygrozyme he said and he is correct that water that is not aerated will allow anerobic bacteria to flourish(this is pythium, brown root rot) good bacterias flourish in highly oxygenated environments like myccorhizae(aerobic)...dude get the pump and hygrozyme, forget peroxide that shit kills any microbes in your nutrients if you use organic or semi organic products. use peroxide for cleaning your system between runs

 

[boxing119]

i put pics up of my lighting and exhaust and what's going on. i'm pretty sure im doing it all okay, i just may need to add a portable a/c for the extra degrees that it wont drop, the tent temp stays around 82,83 with the house being at a cool 60 degrees, if you notice anything that might help please let me know...

 

[morrisgreenberg]

ok boxing, i saw the pix, i see you have a fan on the end of the lights and they have the open end, what i dont see is where is your fresh air coming in from? you need to have intake air come in at the bottom of the room on one end, the other end at the top should have the extraction. is that fan sucking hot air out from the lights? i know you have a nice tent i know that shit has ports at the bottoms on both sides to let in fresh air just unzip one or 2 till the negative pressure dissipates, you always want just a touch of pressure but not somuch where the tents is gonna suck itself in. when you are ready the way you are stup now all you have to do is attatch a carbon filter on the open end of lights and all hot stinky humid air is evacuated, i prefer to turn it around with fan taking room air out thru the filter and then push that air thru the lights and out the room, not as efficient but i dont like mechanical things getting hot like that

 

[smokingrubber]

i prefer to turn it around with fan taking room air out thru the filter and then push that air thru the lights and out the room, not as efficient but i dont like mechanical things getting hot like that

I can understand the fear of getting things hot, but even if the air were 100 degrees, the fan is all metal. In actuallity the air isn't 100 degrees and the fan never gets very warm at all. Unless you need to cool a dozen lights, a good metal inline fan will handle the job either way you install it.

Personally, I like to suck air through the hoods. This way any pin-hole or crack in the hood's seal will only suck in air. Installed the other way, it would be pushing hot air into the tent.

 

[morrisgreenberg]

no no i meant it the other way about pushing air, i run sealed lights i just recently turned them around to suck hot air out rather than push fresh cool air in, i have a closed loop 3x600 per 424fan and it does the job just right in the winter, summer i seal the whole room up no intake fresh air, just c02 and i disconnect the fan/filter from exauhsting and set it to "scrub air". as i have it now i have seperate fans for air cooled hoods and a single 424/filter for sucking out heat/humidty, i have a closed off window with 2 lengths of 6inch ducting taped to the wall so the negative pressure from the fan/filter makes cold winter air come rushing in from those window/ducts, its so strong it feels like theres a fan in those duct. this is what i was trying to explain to boxing, i believe with his setup he can control temps/humidty with one fan just aslong as he has a fresh air port(preferably that 35F air that was originally used to cool the hoods)

 

[boxing119]

so basically just leave a few of the little vent flaps open so it gets the fresh air? and is it awful or detrimental to the plants at all if the temp is 82 in there it feels cool with both fans going?

 

[morrisgreenberg]

82 is fine, over 85 could be an issue, especially when you have water at the bottoms of the pots . at higher temps you may need to make sure water is more available, how often do you flood? the average user goes every 3-4hours. yes open some flaps, if you have air going out you need air going in, also earlier you told me you had air from outside from a window to cool the hoods, you can connect the air from outside via ducting to your flaps and this will probably bring you to the low 70's, regardless of where air flow comes from you need to be able to exchange every drop of air in that room because of poor circulations and stale air will allow mold to thrive, as you r plants get larger it will get more and more humid in there, especially at night during flowering

 

[boxing119]

yeah i noticed that the humidity was almost up to 70 during the dark stage of flowering the first night,i dont have an extra inline fan to bring air in from the window i could run a piece of duct out the tent and set it by the window and maybe the suction is hard enough to bring in fresh air? is that humidity level to high for the dark period?

 

[boxing119]

i'm flooding 4 times a day, i just flipped to flower and im doing from 6-pm to 6-am on and than 6am -6pm off. because it is cooler at night. i ran a peice of duct from the bottom of the tent and set it up against the screen so hopefully it will suck all the air from the window, giving fresh air and cooler temps hopefully

 

[xceptional]

i'm flooding 4 times a day, i just flipped to flower and im doing from 6-pm to 6-am on and than 6am -6pm off. because it is cooler at night. i ran a peice of duct from the bottom of the tent and set it up against the screen so hopefully it will suck all the air from the window, giving fresh air and cooler temps hopefully

if the cooler air you are talking about is in a area of the country with snow i believe that air will add tons of humidity to your room. i may be wrong but you should keep an eye on it.

 

[morrisgreenberg]

you have a timer for your fan i assume, if so just set it to run for 15 minutes every 1.5-2hours, leave are smaller room fans on, 70% is too high especially since theres no bud yet. now since you need to operate the same fan that controls your temps to control humidity, it may bring temps too low during lights off, nothing lower than the mid 50's at worst case scenario you can pick up a room heat for $50 at lowes or HD

 

[Quemado]

I just started my grow on thursday. Put in some fresh Grand Daddy Purple clones The past couple of days I've had to move the plants deep down the pot they were looking weak and soft. The ones that were looking really bad yesterday that I put down lower into the pot are looking much better. I had to help a few more today hopefully everything works out. I'm flooding like 4 times a day they were looking thirsty. I also started with half strength nutes and bumped up to full strength today. There was some descent root growth but I dont think they were getting any water. Just figuring out this system.

 

[boxing119]

what should be my highest precent humidity be? with lights off it tends to stay around 64 or so in the tent which should be good right?

 

[doogleef]

You are in Boulder, right?. RH is not a big concern for us here in Colorado. It's a bit high right now because of the storm coming through but normally it will be about 40. I don't even check it anymore. The low RH around here is a godsend in bloom. Lots of frost.

I recommend H2O2 35% for any root issues. 1-2ml/l of H2O2 about a tsp per gallon of rez every 3-4 days does a beautiful job. You can get h202 in the correct concentrations from chem supply stores if you want to avoid paying dro store prices. IT breaks down to water and oxy in a matter of minutes, not days. You re-apply every few days just to keep the levels up.

 

[boxing119]

whats the coolest i should let my rez temp get its usually right at 67 but it seems to of dropped to about 63 degs is this okay?