MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

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tree farmer

Well-Known Member
here are some root shots of my new test subjects. first pic is clone roots after six days in HP system and the last 2 pics are 12 day old roots in HP system(cant lift them out anymore as they are entagled already in the biospheres).

the roots are looking alot better than last time i was severly overwatering until the 6th week. im somewhat overmisting yet now to try and keep the roots down low as long as possible. I also have extended the misters down into the chambers level with the bottom of the pots. this is to encourage the roots to fill in under the netpots as much as possible before fluffing out. as you can see in the one pic they are already starting to climb the wall headed for the mist lines so they can hang and suck up the mist like last time. that is a good thing but not to soon cause i dont want to run out of space in the chambers before the finish.

i had the ec level to high to start with and have finally found the level these are happy with. a ridiculous 120ppm .5 scale.

i know i need larger chambers but wanted to do a few more tests to get everything in order so i know how to design the new chambers. theres going to be some root scrog implemented in the new chambers.
 

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sherriberry

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what do the blue balls do, and when you say 6 days, do you mean from cut, or from the first sign of root?

Im trying to figure out where to put my 50psi misters (50psi pump, 80psi misters from the drip store)

trying to figure out where the best place to have them spray into the tub would be...

Down from the lid (im worried light will heat up lines and nutes tho)

Or in from the sides jsut below the lid.

Or... better ideas????

any other tricks or secrets are welcome too.

Thanks.
 
T

tree farmer

Well-Known Member
sherriberry said:
what do the blue balls do, and when you say 6 days, do you mean from cut, or from the first sign of root?

Im trying to figure out where to put my 50psi misters (50psi pump, 80psi misters from the drip store)

trying to figure out where the best place to have them spray into the tub would be...

Down from the lid (im worried light will heat up lines and nutes tho)

Or in from the sides jsut below the lid.

Or... better ideas????

any other tricks or secrets are welcome too.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
the blue balls are an experiment to see if they will help keep the roots somewhat lifted off the chamber floor. i usually use silk screen but wanted to try something different. i also am trying them in the netpots instead of hydroton. i hate the hydroton rinse bullshit and it holds to much water for this application so i thought these might work. so far i like what i see in the netpot and i feel they are doing some good so far on the chamber floor. they are weighted so they are almost as heavy as hydroton but have the benefit of not holding water like hydroton. they kinda lock themselves together and give pretty good support.

the clones were rooted in a faux aero cloner. i wrapped those roots around the bottom of the 10 inch netpot and stuck them into the hp pods. none of the faux aero roots grew once in the HP system. they just layed in the bottom of the netpots and new white HP roots developed off the aero cloner roots. that is what you see 6 and 12 days in the HP system. clones were under floros in the faux aero cloner for weeks in 65 degree suspended state with no nutes hardly while i got things ready.

on commercial HP aero systems they have the misters on the side just below the lid. top down works also but from what ive gathered so far you have to keep a good gap between the mister and the net pot cause the roots will fluff out towards the mister and if the mister is to close the roots will quickly stop the dispersion of the mist. also have them so you can get to them easily to replace and check if plugged. im thinking in my new pods to have the misters top down but have them on some type of rail so i can move them outward as the roots fluff out from the netpots.

my nute solution res is outside the room and stays at 67 degrees and the chamber pods stay at 69 degrees without any type of cooling. room stays at 77 degrees. cover the containers in insulation and white panda. keep your feed lines under the white panda plastic and it should stay pretty close to whatever the res temp is as long as you keep the feed lines going to the containers small and keep the solution going thru them without to much dwell time in the lines.
 
T

tree farmer

Well-Known Member
well i finally got my new timers. now ill have seperate timers for night and day mist cycles and be able to go to 1 sec on times with the new nozzels. i have had one of these timers for over 6 yrs using it on and off through the yrs for various aero projects and never had a failure. very versatile and can go down to .5 sec. if need be. Each knob is adjustable for seconds, minutes and hours so you can get any cycle imaginable. Also will work with any voltage from 24VAC-240VAC and up to 24VDC. $80.

Found some Dyna gro pro foliage that fatman and Uncle ben recommend so going to give it atry and see if it kicks butt. looks like it will work with the misters, not thick at all.
 

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fatman7574

fatman7574

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Cool. A lot easier than the programming of the timers I use. Takes an few minutes just to make a simple adjustment to my Omron timers. They do have memory and auto reset and a broader range of cycle times but that is not really needed. Pretty digital display and about 3 times the retail cost. I would definitely not use the Omrons if I had to pay retail for them. I might have to get a link to your timers as the Omrons are hard to get through ebay for a price less than $75 commonly.

I hope the fertilizer works well for you. As long as you keep your roots mass from growing to fast and causing a phosphorus shortage the Dyna- grow Foliage-Pro should work well. If you see any signs of a phosphorus shoratge just add a little monoPotassium Phosphate to the mix. It can not be used to make exaplosives so ought to be readily available. If you see a blooming supplemental fertilizer that shows only phosphorus and potash as ingrediants it is MonoPottasium Phosphate. It is strong as it is 21% Phospahte and 25% Pottasium so you definetly want to use a conductivity meter whem adding it. I would not raise your overall ppm with the more than 1/6 of your original overall ppm. That should incrase your phosphorus by 42% and your Potash by 25%.
 
clydefrog

clydefrog

Well-Known Member
tree farmer said:
Found some Dyna gro pro foliage that fatman and Uncle ben recommend so going to give it atry and see if it kicks butt. looks like it will work with the misters, not thick at all.
Click to expand...
that's interesting. the dyna grow my local shop mixes up on site is 7-9-5...i don't think they have this particular mixture.
 
T

tree farmer

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
Cool. A lot easier than the programming of the timers I use. Takes an few minutes just to make a simple adjustment to my Omron timers. They do have memory and auto reset and a broader range of cycle times but that is not really needed. Pretty digital display and about 3 times the retail cost. I would definitely not use the Omrons if I had to pay retail for them. I might have to get a link to your timers as the Omrons are hard to get through ebay for a price less than $75 commonly.

I hope the fertilizer works well for you. As long as you keep your roots mass from growing to fast and causing a phosphorus shortage the Dyna- grow Foliage-Pro should work well. If you see any signs of a phosphorus shoratge just add a little monoPotassium Phosphate to the mix. It can not be used to make exaplosives so ought to be readily available. If you see a blooming supplemental fertilizer that shows only phosphorus and potash as ingrediants it is MonoPottasium Phosphate. It is strong as it is 21% Phospahte and 25% Pottasium so you definetly want to use a conductivity meter whem adding it. I would not raise your overall ppm with the more than 1/6 of your original overall ppm. That should incrase your phosphorus by 42% and your Potash by 25%.
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fatman
ill keep an eye out for lack of phosphorus and pick some up just in case.

im trying to figure some way to use the runoff ppm as a guide to tell me when to up the input ppm. Is there some rough figure or do you have a hunch as to what the difference from input to runoff ppm should be. right now going in at 120ppm and coming out 90ppm. not alot of difference yet ,but what difference do you think would be an indication to up the input ppm. thanks.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
tree farmer said:
yea thats all i could find locally also 7-9-5. had to have them order it for me.
Click to expand...
The 7-9-5 is more of a early spring formulation that assures ample phosphorus for large amounts of root growth. Are you sure your looking at the right name brand? There is Dyna-Gro(w) that sells Foliage-Pro ("Foliage-Pro 9-3-6: Used to improve the health of indoor plants."), and they also sell "Liquid Grow 7-9-5: This provides all of the nutrition that your plant will need to thrive. It is especially helpful for gardeners that have rocky soil." It is intended for soil growing so I imagine a good portion of its nitrogen is ammonical.

:spew:While this higher level of ammonical nitrogen will be taken up well by the plants during early root development it will not be readily available to the plants again until the last few weeks of budding when the buds are thick and the foilage is thick so lighting is more diffuse and lower intnsity to the majority of the leaf surfaces. Ammonical nitrogen is a positive charge ion, and phosphorus is a neg charged ion so they do not compete with each other. Nitrate is a negative charge ion so it competes with phosphorus.
:o Ooops probably more than you wanted to know.

Phosphorus is quite often over used in soil formulations as it is the least soluble of the macro nutrients. However, it is las the least lechable so it tends to accumulate in soils with much humus/tilth. I guess thet assumerocky soil holds less phosphorus as it would have less humus. Who Knows.
 
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sherriberry

New Member
so i had a power surge superbowl sunday around 2pm according to my timers... and my bat backup prob ran for about 2 hours. And then i got home at 11pm.

So prob 6 or mroe hours... no water to my plants.

honestly... i cant see how they arent worse, but on my big plants the leaves curled.

The good news is the lights were out too... my normal cycle is on at noon and off at midnight.

but at 2 my lgihts went out.

I didnt turn them back on at 11pm, i just left them off, and turned them on the next morning at noon.

Who knows how much damage was done to roots.

Seems like all growth on all plants is stunned.

But the leaves on a lot of plants remained fine actually.

There are about 20 plants in there.

4 of them are a different strain, more sativa, and tall, and long branches... they suffered bad.

Im a little over a month into budding.

Who knows what my yeild will be :(

It could have been worse tho... if lights wouldnt have tripped, i think all my plants would be dead.

I need an alarm to call my cell if something like this happens again. Good lord.
 
clydefrog

clydefrog

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
Are you sure your looking at the right name brand? There is Dyna-Gro(w) that sells Foliage-Pro ("Foliage-Pro 9-3-6: Used to improve the health of indoor plants."), and they also sell "Liquid Grow 7-9-5:
Click to expand...

yeah, its the same brand. i think DG sells the salt mixture wholesale to shops like mine that i believe mix it on site and slap their own label on it. that way its cheaper than the competitors since you're not paying for the weight/volume of shipping water...I'm going to swing by there today and see what i've been missing out on.
 
T

tree farmer

Well-Known Member
sherriberry said:
so i had a power surge superbowl sunday around 2pm according to my timers... and my bat backup prob ran for about 2 hours. And then i got home at 11pm.

So prob 6 or mroe hours... no water to my plants.

honestly... i cant see how they arent worse, but on my big plants the leaves curled.

The good news is the lights were out too... my normal cycle is on at noon and off at midnight.

but at 2 my lgihts went out.

I didnt turn them back on at 11pm, i just left them off, and turned them on the next morning at noon.

Who knows how much damage was done to roots.

Seems like all growth on all plants is stunned.

But the leaves on a lot of plants remained fine actually.

There are about 20 plants in there.

4 of them are a different strain, more sativa, and tall, and long branches... they suffered bad.

Im a little over a month into budding.

Who knows what my yeild will be :(

It could have been worse tho... if lights wouldnt have tripped, i think all my plants would be dead.

I need an alarm to call my cell if something like this happens again. Good lord.
Click to expand...
thats why i built this backup for my system. this could run a very long time as it only has to run for a minute every couple hours to pump the accumulator up. right now id have to plug it in if power goes out but im going to eventually hook it so that if the pressure in the line drops to a preset limit (meaning the power has failed) it would automatically take over. so right now it is a backup if the main pump fails or the power goes out. i have a remote sensor that tells me the temp when im not there. you can tell just from the temps pretty much anything amiss in the room just from having a temp reading. these types of devices will send you a text or call. called a sensaphone.
 

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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
A back up system is a good safety net to have. With a new build the whole misting system (pump,timer,solenoid) could be designed to run on 12v dc. A 100w solar panel and a deep cycle leisure battery would cover the 4amps a day.
You`d need a lot of panels and invertors to run the lights though :)
 
S

sherriberry

New Member
yeah, i think all youd need is a big battery huh?

anyway,

those blue balls that tree farmer is using...

i think that would be better than hydron the more i think about it.

You can buy those things in different styles and such...

and buy them in bulk over on alibaba.com

for the doubleD 10 plant tree grow with the hydron...

i bet if he used those instead it would work out even better.

Only problem is, kiss those goodbye at the end of a grow, there is no way you can get those blue balls out of a root mass :)

but if you buy them in bulk, they arent that expensive

Great inovation on the blue ball idea buddy
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
You could always compost the roots and pick out the bioballs when its rotted down. Pity the bioballs don`t come in stainless thenyou could incinerate the rootball to get them back.
 
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