Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

letitgrow77

Well-Known Member
Any ideas on why one of my plants hasn't shown sex yet while her 2 sisters started showing after the first week of flowering??! They are 54 days old and into the 3rd week of flowering! Any ideas??!
 

jjfoo

Active Member
If i had an EC meter i would say what my EC is. Im measuring a ppm of total dissolved solids.

I dont know the conversion i guess. how can a ppm be converted ?

There should be only one amount for a parts per million.
Are you calculating the ppm based on ppm of your water and how much nutes you add by volume? I assumed you where using a probe and sticking it in the water.

My question is how are you getting the ppm? I've always measured EC. My meter has PPM display but it is just the EC times a factor. It isn't actual PPM.
 

DocBud

Member
Hey UB!

What can I say, you've made a believer out of me. I'm using the following, in Fox Farms Ocean Forrest soil, with about 40% perlite:


Please comment and make suggestions. It seems to work very well, but if I can do better, I will.

Osmocote Plus

GUARANTEED ANALYSIS 15-9-12
TOTAL NITROGEN (N)**. 15.00%
8.00% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
7.00% Nitrate Nitrogen
AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5)**. 9.00%
SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O)**. 12.00%
CALCIUM (Ca)** . 1.90%
MAGNESIUM (Mg)** . 1.40%
0.70% Water Soluble Magnesium
SULFUR (S)** . 4.00%
1.00% Combined Sulfur
BORON (B)**. 0.02%
COPPER (Cu). 0.05%
0.05% Water Soluble Copper
IRON (Fe)**. 0.45%
0.42% Water Soluble Iron
0.03% Chelated Iron
MANGANESE (Mn)**. 0.06%
0.06% Water Soluble Manganese
MOLYBDENUM (Mo)**. 0.02%
ZINC (Zn) . 0.05%
0.019% Water Soluble Zinc**
Derived from: Polymer-coated: ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate,
calcium phosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium
sulfate, sodium borate, iron phosphate, iron EDTA, manganese sulfate,
sodium molybdate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate and zinc oxide.
** The nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur,
boron, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc sources have been
coated to provide 12.7% coated slow-release nitrogen (N), 7.6%
coated slow-release available phosphate (P205 ), 10.2% coated
slow-release soluble potash (K20), 1.6% coated slow-release
calcium (Ca), 1.2% coated slow-release magnesium (Mg), 3.4%
coated slow-release sulfur (S), 0.017% coated slow-release
boron (B), 0.38% coated slow-release iron (Fe), 0.051% coated
slow-release manganese (Mn), 0.017% coated slow-release
molybdenum (Mo) and 0.016% coated slow-release zinc (Zn).
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hey UB!

What can I say, you've made a believer out of me. I'm using the following, in Fox Farms Ocean Forrest soil, with about 40% perlite:


Please comment and make suggestions. It seems to work very well, but if I can do better, I will.

Osmocote Plus

GUARANTEED ANALYSIS 15-9-12
TOTAL NITROGEN (N)**. 15.00%
8.00% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
7.00% Nitrate Nitrogen
AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5)**. 9.00%
SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O)**. 12.00%
CALCIUM (Ca)** . 1.90%
MAGNESIUM (Mg)** . 1.40%
0.70% Water Soluble Magnesium
SULFUR (S)** . 4.00%
1.00% Combined Sulfur
BORON (B)**. 0.02%
COPPER (Cu). 0.05%
0.05% Water Soluble Copper
IRON (Fe)**. 0.45%
0.42% Water Soluble Iron
0.03% Chelated Iron
MANGANESE (Mn)**. 0.06%
0.06% Water Soluble Manganese
MOLYBDENUM (Mo)**. 0.02%
ZINC (Zn) . 0.05%
0.019% Water Soluble Zinc**
Derived from: Polymer-coated: ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate,
calcium phosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium
sulfate, sodium borate, iron phosphate, iron EDTA, manganese sulfate,
sodium molybdate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate and zinc oxide.
** The nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur,
boron, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc sources have been
coated to provide 12.7% coated slow-release nitrogen (N), 7.6%
coated slow-release available phosphate (P205 ), 10.2% coated
slow-release soluble potash (K20), 1.6% coated slow-release
calcium (Ca), 1.2% coated slow-release magnesium (Mg), 3.4%
coated slow-release sulfur (S), 0.017% coated slow-release
boron (B), 0.38% coated slow-release iron (Fe), 0.051% coated
slow-release manganese (Mn), 0.017% coated slow-release
molybdenum (Mo) and 0.016% coated slow-release zinc (Zn).
Looks good to me!
 
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DocBud

Member
Another question for you, Uncle Ben:

My tap water PH is about 8.3-8.5. The PPM is usually just over 300.

I'm rather taken by these CRF's, namely the Osmocote Plus which I listed above. The nitrogen sources are about equal between nitrate and ammonia.....so I think it's pretty neutral as far as PH goes.....key words: I think.

So, if you were going to mix up a soil to use with the parameters I've given above, what would you put in the mix?

Here's what I've done:

Fox Farms Ocean Forest with about 40% perlite.
The FF has peat in it, so I figured that would tend to acidify the soil a bit.

Should I bother with lowering the PH of the water? Should I add some dolomitic lime to the soil?

The plants are growing just fine in this mix....but I'm trying to do an excellent job.....as good as possible.
 

bigsourD

Well-Known Member
Should I bother with lowering the PH of the water?
I wouldn't worry about PH as much in soil since soil tends to buffer the PH. Ph'ed water has temporary effect if any on soil from my experience.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Another question for you, Uncle Ben:

My tap water PH is about 8.3-8.5. The PPM is usually just over 300.

I'm rather taken by these CRF's, namely the Osmocote Plus which I listed above. The nitrogen sources are about equal between nitrate and ammonia.....so I think it's pretty neutral as far as PH goes.....key words: I think.

So, if you were going to mix up a soil to use with the parameters I've given above, what would you put in the mix?

Here's what I've done:

Fox Farms Ocean Forest with about 40% perlite.
The FF has peat in it, so I figured that would tend to acidify the soil a bit.

Should I bother with lowering the PH of the water? Should I add some dolomitic lime to the soil?

The plants are growing just fine in this mix....but I'm trying to do an excellent job.....as good as possible.
I'd add additional peat, some dolomite, etc. BUT, if it aint broke, why do you want to fix it? THAT'S what will get you in trouble, and once in trouble, you're going to be kicking yourself in the seat of your plants forever.

UB
 

DocBud

Member
I'd add additional peat, some dolomite, etc. BUT, if it aint broke, why do you want to fix it? THAT'S what will get you in trouble, and once in trouble, you're going to be kicking yourself in the seat of your plants forever.

UB
I hear ya about "don't fix it if it ain't broke."
So, if you add peat....which lowers PH and Dolomite....which raises it......does that act like a buffer?

My water is over 8.....so do I need the lime?

I am on the hunt for unusual quality....not just a good grow with good yield, etc. I want something special.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I hear ya about "don't fix it if it ain't broke."
So, if you add peat....which lowers PH and Dolomite....which raises it......does that act like a buffer?
A little, not much. Soil is a powerful buffer. The effect of your water on pH will have none or very little impact long term. Take the readings and see for yourself.

I am on the hunt for unusual quality....not just a good grow with good yield, etc. I want something special.
Exactly what I said about my first wife. :D
 

DobermanGuy

Well-Known Member
My water is over 8.....so do I need the lime?
Im curious about this. I am currently using RO due to my high ppm in my tap (near 500). As long as the soil has some amendments (peat, etc.) to dial it down (ph), will the high ph/ppm tap be more than sufficient?

DISREGARD--- I forgot that after the fertilizer is added ph is around 5.5. and i use a bit of tap to bring it up to 6 or so.
 

DobermanGuy

Well-Known Member
UB, do you do a water only in between fertilizing or do you do a lower ratio and fert every watering???

I know there's a few who want to know that...well, i do anyways. Hope you don't care about the quote in my sig (I shortened it). Figured id try to assist in your enlightening of the minds.
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
I hear ya about "don't fix it if it ain't broke."
So, if you add peat....which lowers PH and Dolomite....which raises it......does that act like a buffer?

My water is over 8.....so do I need the lime?

I am on the hunt for unusual quality....not just a good grow with good yield, etc. I want something special.
Doc, like UB said the ph of your water will have very little effect on your soils PH. It is the alkalinity of your water that will affect your soil. If you have a very alkaline water source, then using dolomite could actually increase your soils ph too much. If you have a low alkalinity source of water, then using dolomite would help.

Also from your previous post, equal parts ammoniacal nitrogen, and nitrate nitrogen will not give you a neutral ph. It'll actually tend towards the acidic side. Google ammonification, and nitrification to learn more.
 
Im a new grower and i recently bought halogen lights for my grow room. Is this ok, my plants are growing tall in their first 3 weeks but dont have many leaves below the top. Is this normal?
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Im a new grower and i recently bought halogen lights for my grow room. Is this ok, my plants are growing tall in their first 3 weeks but dont have many leaves below the top. Is this normal?
No, they are not okay. Halogen/Incandescent light bulbs do not grow plants. Get rid of them, and go buy some CFL's if money is an issue(26 true watts or higher). If you can afford the money go out and buy yourself a HID(High Intensity Discharge) set up. A 400w digital setup can be had as low as $150. Maybe a bit lower if you look around.

Also, be careful not to buy incandescent light bulbs that are marketed as "Grow Lamps". Those manufacturers should be punched in the face for selling such bullshit.
 

DobermanGuy

Well-Known Member
Im a new grower and i recently bought halogen lights for my grow room. Is this ok, my plants are growing tall in their first 3 weeks but dont have many leaves below the top. Is this normal?
definately, not to mention you can cook an egg on them... literally. They put out the most heat for such a small light output. Get your money back or put in in the garage.
 
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