Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)
- Thread starter homebrewer
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homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Just keep doing what you're doing. Be patient. You'll be in for a real treat at the end.
mr.smileyface
Well-Known Member
Check your room before your food. HB isnt trying to advertise Dyna grow. he is explaining that a your plants need a complete nutrient solution. Not a fancy brand name.
If you spend the extra money on juice you should have got the full line up. This is where advanced nutes jews you. Every other two part i know of, are more complete than there two parts. Ussualy a good grower will get the same yield out of a room no matter what the juice is.
Hb is just giving advice towards feeding your plants what they need. Not what the store owner wants to sell you.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Your signature implies that you have 3 grows under your belt so odds are, the plant food you're using isn't killing your plants, inexperience is. Dynagro is quite concentrated so if you were hurting your plants with AN, DynaGro isn't going to fare any better when misused. Mastering when and how much to feed and water is something that takes a while to master. Stick with it but in the mean time, move to a cheaper nutrient
.Nitrogen is what drives the green colour in a plant. Extremely dark green, almost black and glossy leaves generally indicate too much nitrogen. Leaves will curl down and in, like a Rams horn, as it gets worse.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
The glossy look in this case is from spider mite sprays like neem and azamax. But you're right about the dark green
.smokeweeda
Member
so i had a quick question about the dyna grow line.. i've been using it along with "snow storm ultra" and "crystal burst" from humboldt's own..do u ya think im better off trying to add bennies (like great white?) or just try em and see if it works? i saw one of your post that said adding supplements my cause more problems then it will help anything, do u think that's the case with these? any help would be awesome..
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Forget that junk from humboldt and master the simplicity of growing before adding supplements. Hardly any of them are worth the money and none of them will make a difference like feeding at proper levels in with good NPK ratios.
smokeweeda
Member
thanks def. appreciate the input.. suckered into snake oils, at least i have some cool bottles right? haha
to mr smiley face. lets keep your personal prejudices out of this forum. there is enough hatrid and ignorance in this world. this is an awesome thread and very informative. "This is where advanced nutes jews you" is not appreciated. not all jews are money hungry greedy people. Im not even sure BIG MIKE of advaced nutrients is even jewish so lets keep comments that have nothing to do with this thread out of it.....home brew thank you so much for sharing your experiences with us. they are highly appreciated....
mr.smileyface
Well-Known Member
I wasnt using it in a rasict way. Im sure HB can speak for him self. Im not trying to flood this thread. Do you work for advanced or something? Brand names dont mean anything. You think dyna grow is gonna fix all your problems? Wtf can u add to make people learn? Im trying to give my two cents on this site. If you read my thread..
Hb good thread by the way. Advanced nutrients is a greedy hype. Maybe if they put there products together instead of with water they would have a solid base.
cleverpiggy
Well-Known Member
Holy political correctness Batman.
hornedfrog2000
Well-Known Member
subbed......
Actually, I have about 12 grows under my belt. I started by babysitting a friend's grow from start to end for about 6 runs and it was great. My last run with him yielded about 2.3 lbs/light. It was when I went on my own that everything fell apart. I looked for the nutes the original recipe called for and couldn't find it, so I took the shop owner's suggestion and went with AN; it costed me a fortune and I didn't know what I was doing wrong because weird deficiencies showed up all the time and I contributed it to temperature/humidity/etc. At the time I didn't know about NPK and all that other good stuff. It was only recently when I yielded 0.5lb/light that I started studying up on everything. Now, I'm taking it to the molecular level past the big 3 (N P & K) and I'm thinking about going to grad school for Agronomy.Your signature implies that you have 3 grows under your belt so odds are, the plant food you're using isn't killing your plants, inexperience is. Dynagro is quite concentrated so if you were hurting your plants with AN, DynaGro isn't going to fare any better when misused. Mastering when and how much to feed and water is something that takes a while to master. Stick with it but in the mean time, move to a cheaper nutrient
I'm actually really upset with this shop owner because he suggested a bunch of stuff that ruined about 3 harvests. Either way, it's my fault and I take responsibility. The thing that still bothers me is the range of differing opinions out there (NPK ratios and whatnot). The only thing consistent are the reviews for dyna-gro, and the only downside for Dyna-grow is the ammoniacal nitrogen, which breaks down over time and lowers Ph (but only a concern with recirculating reservoirs). Anyhow, thanks for documenting your grow. I've been following your past journals and it's been very informative. I'm actually on the same day schedule as you so it's a good comparison to see what my grow SHOULD look like at day so-n-so. Your's is much bigger and better lol. But I know why. My girls are too close to the lights and I started using dynaBLOOM at week 3 with no dynaGROW at all...
Btw, I have a question. Do you use RO water? My tap water is 300 and I remember you said to reach for a PPM of 1400 max. Does that mean I'm shooting for 1700PPM?
burrr
Well-Known Member
Jamesking, On my last try at DWC with dynagro I was having problems.... slime, nute burn etc. For me, it as the hygrozyme that seemed to cause, or intensify my DWC problems. My ph would drop, and I blamed the ammoniacal nitrogen for that, when it was slime and root rot causing the ph to drop.
It sounds like lots of people have problems using hygrozyme.
I have also found that plants are plenty happy on lower level of nutes, even just 500 ppm at peak bloom keeps them happy. I add back water w/ nutes daily. For happy roots in DWC I had to go sterile (dutchmaster gold ZONE) or beneficial bacteria. no more hygrozyme for me.
I also added more air to my buckets, and cool them to under 70 degrees. I finally have a grow that looks like one of Homebrewers.
see my day 28 pics earlier in this thread.
It sounds like lots of people have problems using hygrozyme.
I have also found that plants are plenty happy on lower level of nutes, even just 500 ppm at peak bloom keeps them happy. I add back water w/ nutes daily. For happy roots in DWC I had to go sterile (dutchmaster gold ZONE) or beneficial bacteria. no more hygrozyme for me.
I also added more air to my buckets, and cool them to under 70 degrees. I finally have a grow that looks like one of Homebrewers.
see my day 28 pics earlier in this thread.
Hmmm interesting. I do use hygrozyme. That would explain the murkiness. Guess I'll just do it without the hygrozyme. I'm also using bud candy. What do you think about bud candy?Jamesking, On my last try at DWC with dynagro I was having problems.... slime, nute burn etc. For me, it as the hygrozyme that seemed to cause, or intensify my DWC problems. My ph would drop, and I blamed the ammoniacal nitrogen for that, when it was slime and root rot causing the ph to drop.
It sounds like lots of people have problems using hygrozyme.
I have also found that plants are plenty happy on lower level of nutes, even just 500 ppm at peak bloom keeps them happy. I add back water w/ nutes daily. For happy roots in DWC I had to go sterile (dutchmaster gold ZONE) or beneficial bacteria. no more hygrozyme for me.
I also added more air to my buckets, and cool them to under 70 degrees. I finally have a grow that looks like one of Homebrewers.
see my day 28 pics earlier in this thread.
burrr
Well-Known Member
For now, skip it. Just go with the dynagrow, and the protect. I use about 1ml grow, 7ml bloom, and 5ml protecK per gallon, that is all. than I add my slime control, either Zone or BB. My first few grows I would look at my plants that were getting to much N and think they looked awesome, with giant dark green leaves. I'm running very low nutes, but getting my best results yet.
I also made a choice to grow just one strain at a time, and try to learn what it likes.
I also made a choice to grow just one strain at a time, and try to learn what it likes.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I've never needed to control slime when using ANY nutrient. The only time I had a slime issue is when I was using water from my dehumidifier. Tap water or RO was totally fine, even when adding 'organic' additives from GH.
JameKing - I use RO water now. But when I didn't, my tap water ppm was included in my total ppm (I'd highly recommend against 1400 ppm). So If I'm feeding at 900ppm and my tap water is 200ppm, then I'm adding 700ppm of nutrients. I had great results with tap water at 200ppm btw. I only moved to RO because over the winter, my tap spiked up to low 300's and that's bad for my plants and my beers.
JameKing - I use RO water now. But when I didn't, my tap water ppm was included in my total ppm (I'd highly recommend against 1400 ppm). So If I'm feeding at 900ppm and my tap water is 200ppm, then I'm adding 700ppm of nutrients. I had great results with tap water at 200ppm btw. I only moved to RO because over the winter, my tap spiked up to low 300's and that's bad for my plants and my beers
.I have an off the topic question... what do you think is more important? Phosphorus or potassium for flowering?FWIW, I've never needed to control slime when using ANY nutrient. The only time I had a slime issue is when I was using water from my dehumidifier. Tap water or RO was totally fine, even when adding 'organic' additives from GH.
JameKing - I use RO water now. But when I didn't, my tap water ppm was included in my total ppm (I'd highly recommend against 1400 ppm). So If I'm feeding at 900ppm and my tap water is 200ppm, then I'm adding 700ppm of nutrients. I had great results with tap water at 200ppm btw. I only moved to RO because over the winter, my tap spiked up to low 300's and that's bad for my plants and my beers
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
They're both important but I've had the best results when I'm using a fertilizer that supplies a little more P than K.