First grow:4wks and yellowing leaves :( please guide me
- Thread starter Brokerj
- Start date
DrFever
New Member
Coco coir (coir fibre, Coir, Coco, Coco fibre) is a product derived from the husks of coconuts. Visually it looks a lot likepeat. Coco, when used properly, represents the best of soil and hydro in a single media. Coco can be extremely forgiving,and growth tends to be very consistant. Coco is pretty damn tolerant of over-and-under-watering. As you will see below Cocohas many amazing properties (and some minor obstacles) making it an ideal medium to grow plants in.Coco is almost a neutral medium, which means that aside from its limited ability to adjust pH to optimum levels, it doesnot bind nutrients and feed them slowly to the plant over time like traditional “soils” do. (This means that Coco has a relativelylow cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to most “soils”. All the nutrients your plant needs to grow must beprovided by you. Coco fiber does, however, create millions of tiny air spaces, which are great for the roots. This is due tothe large surface area of the coir particles. Think of coco as a very porous, open cell sponge; it releases water very quicklyand as it drains out of the bottom of the containers, it pulls in fresh nutrients and oxygen. The medium holds water, oxygen,and nutrients in a perfect ratio for the roots in these tiny spaces. As oxygen plays an all-important role in respiration(roots pumping nutrient up to the plant), the structure of coco coir further promotes root and plant health. This factorshould not be underestimated because healthy roots invariably lead to a healthy plant (and a healthy yield).Coco also has a remarkable capacity to insulate and protect the plant’s root system in hot weather. This means that cococoir isn’t as prone to overheating, due to excessive ambient air temperatures, as many other mediums, making it ideal forwarm climates. Because the root zone is cooler, there is more oxygen availble for the roots to use.Watering with coco is different than with soil. If you grow in soil, it can be much easier to “drown” the plant with too muchwater. Coco on the other hand is so light that there will always be more oxygen left and the plant will have a much hardertime being oxygen straved. You can let the pot become dryer the first week only to stimulate root development. We suggestwatering your medium until fully saturated (with at least 10% ”run-off”
and then letting your plants go from wet to “barelymoist”. Coco can be used differently than this - allowing for multiple waterings a day. A grower must only let Coco gofrom Wet and Fully Saturated to “Moist” (usually a few hours when the lights are on) before watering again. We have hadconsistenly great results off of the former method - Going from Wet - to “Barely moist”.Although Coco, has a very good water - to - air ratio (even trumps Rockwool which also claims to have a 70% water - 30%air holding capacity); however coco offers the unique ability of being cut with a further aerating substance like Perlite.Adding perlite can increase your overall oxygen levels within the root zone immensely. We suggest one 1 cu. ft. bag of Perliteto one bag of 50 Liter
and then letting your plants go from wet to “barelymoist”. Coco can be used differently than this - allowing for multiple waterings a day. A grower must only let Coco gofrom Wet and Fully Saturated to “Moist” (usually a few hours when the lights are on) before watering again. We have hadconsistenly great results off of the former method - Going from Wet - to “Barely moist”.Although Coco, has a very good water - to - air ratio (even trumps Rockwool which also claims to have a 70% water - 30%air holding capacity); however coco offers the unique ability of being cut with a further aerating substance like Perlite.Adding perlite can increase your overall oxygen levels within the root zone immensely. We suggest one 1 cu. ft. bag of Perliteto one bag of 50 Liter
Canna Coco. This will give you roughly a 60% Coco / 40% Perlite mix, which has ideal aeration levelsas well as maintaining an adequate water - holding capacity.Coir holds a considerable amount of water within. It also evenly distributes the water throughout the medium. This is greatfor growers using drip systems becuase you only need one to two drippers to create full saturation throughout the entire container.However, since Coco holds onto water and nutrient within its structure it creates a pH Buffer within the mediumitself. Coco also has a natural tendency (because of its high levels of Potassium contained within) to hold onto to certainsalts. This tendency (which contributes to its mid to low CEC value) tends to make Coco’s buffer rather difficult to bust,thus making it harder to change the pH of the medium. Do not fret though because the Buffer CAN be broken. It just takesflushing copious amount of pH corrected 300 ppm nutrient solution (50% of which should be Cal/Mag) with Final Phase
(Flushing agent mixed in) through the medium before you even start to grow in it. In this way you can ensure that the pHof the solution going into the medium and the pH of the solution coming out of the solutiion match. (An example of thiswould be 6.0 pH going into the medium and 6.0 pH coming out as “run-off”. This is a VERY IMPORTANT concept to graspwhen using Coco - based mediums. We have made an
“info sheet” that deals with this entitled How to do a Proper Flush.
Another issue (touched on above) a grower should be aware of when using Coco - based mediums is that Coco naturally hasa good amount of Potasium in it which when released into the medium competes with some nutrients (such as Calcium,Magnesium, Manganese, and Sulfur), therefore we will want to
FLUSH the medium on a regualr (weekly or bi-weekly) basisor water with very low ppms / EC values. When Flushing make sure to Flush with 300 ppms of solution made up of Cal/Mag+ Nutrient. When Flushing, we also suggest collecting and testing the “run-off” to make sure that the ppms have gone down
to almost nothing, and that your pH coming out of the bottom of the containers matches the pH being fed to the plants
Flo Grow
Well-Known Member
Again, it's not a PH flux, but flushing from overwatering.
Soil PH stays stable after a while as long as the nutes are PH'd in the same range.
Read your own attachment there.
"yelowing is cause by only 2 things really 1 is over watering 2 is ph fluctuations" - You just contradicted yourself !!
A lot more goes into it.
This attachment isn't meant for cannabis either.
Cold temps (15 - 20 degrees less than lights on temp) cause leaves to purple, blue, red, orange and yellow.
Bud that won't change color (i.e. purple) in a normal grow environment, will everytime cold temps are introduced like I stated above.
Concerning the 3rd paragraph, 3rd sentence :
I don't give inadequate food, and the only leaves that yellow and die are my Coteyledons like they are supposed too, AND when I flush (inadequate feeding).
Flo Grow
Well-Known Member
5.8 - 6.5
I use Bio-Bizz Coco and it's already PH'd at 6.2
Flo Grow
Well-Known Member
​We agree on that ! lol
Hi guys, just looked at plants and for quick update they both look fine after there transplant,1 is slightly droopy but the other is ok... Hopefully this will eventually fix my yellowing. I take it you both talk about p meaning potassium? I wasn't aware it stores up so maybe once a week a nice flush is needed? Sometimes u can see what sort of looks like salt residue on some coco particles just looks a bit White and salty you know? All this advice is really helping me thanks guys... Even if it doesn't survive I know more for the next grow and can start fresh more confident if worst comes to worst
hammer6913
Well-Known Member
hey broker j, i would still try the seabird guano. once they get into veg then u can switch to bat guano.. good luck. hope this helps ya..
Hi hammer, thanks for coming back to the post.... I could only find one kind of guano, it was bat which wasnt ideal at 4n and 10p but nevertheless it will give some extra potentially needed nitrogen with the perlite mix apparently. So let's hope it works... I am going to feed it small amount over the next few days to see if it makes any noticeable difference...if it doesn't I will move on to nutes and see if that helps I suppose. One step at a time I suppose! 
Clonex
Well-Known Member
Hi broker , shit man i was thinking about your plants when i was working with mine lol that aint fookin right ? keep us updated mate
Clonex
Well-Known Member
Blue cheese deffo normally stay short and squat with big indica leaves , i grow alot of BB's stuff.
Clonex it's not really droopy but it does look upsetcif you know what I mean? I take it by your response I should be concerned.... And yes, clearly any poovis now acceptable.... If I'm stoned, and I can't be bothered to go downstairs.... You never know.lol.
Sensi could you post your pics on here please mate?
Sensi could you post your pics on here please mate?
