LED Without LEDs -My First T5 Grow

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I wonder if any of the divergent results that are being reported have to do with light height.

The type of combination that okthanks 2 is talking about has bulbs with more complete spectrums, as opposed to the aquarium mixes that have some narrow spectrum bulbs. I believe we've concluded that with the aquarium bulbs its better to keep the lights a bit higher than usual to allow the spectrums to blend. Putting narrow-spectrum bulbs close to the canopy should result in poor growth. Similar issues have come up in the LED community in terms of distance to canopy and spectrum mixing. Putting your LEDs too close doesn't work well.

How high off the canopy have you been putting your lights okthanks2 and RedOctober?

Anybody thinks this might be a factor in what we're hearing lately?
Possibly, I've always have mine 12 inches away for the purpose of spectrum blend. I have not had any issues.

Nute lock can stop growth.

nute lock symptoms - purple stalk, curling leaves, zero growth.

Fimming will slow growth a lot , but for only a week.

High temps and humidity can slow growth to a crawl or even stop growth completely.

High temp symptoms - edges of leaves will flare up then leaves will eventually curl upward and brown and turn crispy.
 

okthanks2

Active Member
I wonder if any of the divergent results that are being reported have to do with light height.

The type of combination that okthanks 2 is talking about has bulbs with more complete spectrums, as opposed to the aquarium mixes that have some narrow spectrum bulbs. I believe we've concluded that with the aquarium bulbs its better to keep the lights a bit higher than usual to allow the spectrums to blend. Putting narrow-spectrum bulbs close to the canopy should result in poor growth. Similar issues have come up in the LED community in terms of distance to canopy and spectrum mixing. Putting your LEDs too close doesn't work well.

How high off the canopy have you been putting your lights okthanks2 and RedOctober?

Anybody thinks this might be a factor in what we're hearing lately?
Been keeping the lights 14" from the canopy.

NOTICE: READ HERE: NOTICE: READ HERE: NOTICE: READ HERE: So if you miss this post it is not my problem anymore! LMFAO

NEXT:

Just checked in after running the comparison between T5 combinations after 2 days. (as a reminder to those that don't read good: LOL

In room #1. 8 bulb fixture with 4 of the 6500K $2 bulbs, 2 Redsuns, 2 ATI Procolor.

In room #2. 8 bulb fixture with 4 of the ATI procolor, 2 Redsuns, 1 ATI blue plus, 1 UVL Super actinic. AND NO 6500K BULBS! YAY!

BOTH ROOMS ARE ON 24 HOUR LIGHT CYCLE. TEMP 75 F, RH 50%

Room #1 is growing like crazy compared to room #2. Height from canopy is the same. Same everything else. Gonna give it another 8 days as promised and report back (with photos for those of you that don't know how to use the search feature.) Room #2 is still having stunted growth issues after round 3 of this same trial. I'm seeing some new growth so I would say that it is safe to give it more time and see if there is a change. Compared to room #1, however, it has it beat like a rusty bent nail.
HYPOTHESIS:
This test will show that the addition of 6500K bulbs will have extremely better results than the addition of the blue plus and super actinic bulbs. It will also show that adding to full spectrum lighting aka(5500K to 6700K) the UVL Red Sun or ATI ProColor or Zoo Med Flora Sun, or Aqueon Flora Max, or Aquamedic Plant Grow, etc. is the best choice for super growth.

NOTE:
For all the people in here that have been bad mouthing me for using 6500K bulbs, when you finally see that the $2 bulbs work better than the $17 dollar blue or actinic bulbs, are you still going to be bad mouthing me? Or maybe Hyroot will try to convince me that I have a nutrient problem/temp problem/whatever else, keeping in mind that everything is EXACTLY THE SAME IN BOTH ROOMS OTHER THAN THE LIGHT. I really STILL don't get it. I'm trying to find a cheaper way to do this by getting rid of useless bulbs and keeping the ones that actually are doing the job and still use the RED specific bulbs. Taking 1 useless bulb out and replacing it with 1 cheapo bulb would save some cash in the long run right? Ultimately we all want fast, vigorous healthy growth with a high yield and low heat/energy consumption right? Or do the people that have a problem with the 6500K bulbs only want to use expensive pretty color bulbs in their grow and not worry about anything else? God forbid that a 6500K bulb is in the mix, since they pretty much represent the same color of the sun on a cloudy day. Hey, I really like the color of the light that the Blue Plus, Fiji Purple, Super Actinic puts out, but if they aren't doing anything useful, then why have them in there? Why waste the money? Why put more mercury in the landfill?

THESE ARE THE BULBS THAT I AM REFERRING TO AS "AQUARIUM BULBS." THEY ARE BULBS THAT ARE MEANT TO GO INTO AQUARIUMS TO POP COLORS AND MAKE THE FISH AND CORALS LOOK PRETTY. THEY REALLY HAVE LITTLE OTHER FUNCTION. I AM LISTING THE BULBS SO THERE IS NO MORE CONFUSION AND SO THAT NO ONE CAN ACCUSE ME OF CONTRADICTING MYSELF ANYMORE(hyroot). THE BULBS ARE AS FOLLOWS: UVL SUPER ACTINIC, UVL 454, ATI BLUE PLUS, UVL 75/25, KZ FIJI PURPLE. PRETTY MUCH ANY BULB THAT IS ACTINIC/BLUE ONLY.

The last trial run that failed was a mix of 4 Fiji Purple, 2 Redsun, 1 UVL 75/25, 1 Blue Plus. Growth came to a hault leaving the plant real weird looking while the plants with the same nutrient regimen under the "other lights" blasted off into outer space.

PEOPLE, I purchased these bulbs to do some experimenting and contribute. I'm doing EXACTLY that. When I say "don't waste your money on useless bulbs," I'm trying to warn people of useless bulbs so they do not waste money and they end up dumping a bunch of wasted mercury into the landfill for no reason. For some reason a few of you, (don't even care to mention, you know who you are) act like I'm complaining about spending $800 on light sticks when really I'm trying to explain that I OWN A SHIT TON OF EXPENSIVE ASS AQUARIUM LIGHTS TO EXPERIMENT WITH. If you choose not to believe me or choose to discredit my results, there is nothing I can do or say to help you. This information is not intended for you, it is intended for the people who want to buy the right lights for the job. I have been a gardener for 40+ years, I know my shit. I have been growing all kinds of fruits and veggies and medicines under all kinds of lighting for the majority of those 40 years. Just because I haven't posted on THIS forum, or don't have 1,000,000 posts doesn't make inexperienced at what I do. I really can't stand morons who base a persons knowledge and status on how many posts you make. Also, I could really CARE LESS about WHO started this thread, or who has the most posts, or who posts the most photos, all that shit REALLY makes little difference. What matters is the accuracy of information, the willingness to contribute, and still have the least amount possible of disruptions from adolescent behavior. Speaking of which, I am sure following this post there will still be those who only read the last line of people's posts, automatically assuming they know what the whole post is about and post some moronic judgemental b.s. about how "I don't have enough posts, your humidity is high, your nutes are low, blah blah blah. Does anyone realize that there are about 1,000,000 other people that read these forums without even owning an account? Think about those people right? They are as important as everyone here and the validity of the information is important. So when I say, RED LIGHT CAUSES STRETCHING, do your research before jumping all over me telling me I'm wrong and calling me names and shit like that. It really isn't necessary.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Been keeping the lights 14" from the canopy. NOTICE: READ HERE: NOTICE: READ HERE: NOTICE: READ HERE: So if you miss this post it is not my problem anymore! LMFAONEXT:Just checked in after running the comparison between T5 combinations after 2 days. (as a reminder to those that don't read good: LOLIn room #1. 8 bulb fixture with 4 of the 6500K $2 bulbs, 2 Redsuns, 2 ATI Procolor.In room #2. 8 bulb fixture with 4 of the ATI procolor, 2 Redsuns, 1 ATI blue plus, 1 UVL Super actinic. AND NO 6500K BULBS! YAY!BOTH ROOMS ARE ON 24 HOUR LIGHT CYCLE. TEMP 75 F, RH 50%Room #1 is growing like crazy compared to room #2. Height from canopy is the same. Same everything else. Gonna give it another 8 days as promised and report back (with photos for those of you that don't know how to use the search feature.) Room #2 is still having stunted growth issues after round 3 of this same trial. I'm seeing some new growth so I would say that it is safe to give it more time and see if there is a change. Compared to room #1, however, it has it beat like a rusty bent nail.HYPOTHESIS:This test will show that the addition of 6500K bulbs will have better results than the addition of the blue plus and super actinic bulbs.NOTE:For all the people in here that have been bad mouthing me for using 6500K bulbs, when you finally see that the $2 bulbs work better than the $17 dollar blue or actinic bulbs, are you still going to be bad mouthing me? I really STILL don't get it. I'm trying to find a cheaper way to do this by getting rid of useless bulbs and keeping the ones that actually are doing the job and still use the RED specific bulbs. Ultimately we all want fast, vigorous healthy growth with a high yield and low heat/energy consumption right? Or do the people that have a problem with the 6500K bulbs only want to use expensive pretty color bulbs in their grow and not worry about anything else? God forbid that a 6500K bulb is in the mix, since they pretty much represent the same color of the sun on a cloudy day.

24 hour lighting screws up the photo period if they dont get any dark.

You must be dillusional. No one has bad mouthed you for using 6500k. A bunch of people on here use them. The only badmouthing towards you was in rebutall to your shit talking to everyone else. Quit trying to start an argument.

WHAT AN EGO ON THIS GUY.
 

Undercover Cop

Active Member
exactly, no one has a prob with any bulb you use, and we appreciate your input and experience. Its the defensive/aggressive attitude. like I said along time ago when you called me a fucking teenager (I notice you deleted a bunch of posts where you were slinging insults around) Just chill ok, dont be defensive. everyone is welcome. It all started when you jumped in and told everyone to stick with HID cuz plants dont like low intensity light, on a thread where alot have used HID and are looking for an alternative for whatever reasons. Thats why some became defensive towards your attack on T5's (this is where we've been calling home for awhile now). Lets all reset and proceed with the presentation of ideas, peacefully :)
th_meatwad2.jpg
 

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
I wonder if any of the divergent results that are being reported have to do with light height. The type of combination that okthanks 2 is talking about has bulbs with more complete spectrums, as opposed to the aquarium mixes that have some narrow spectrum bulbs. I believe we've concluded that with the aquarium bulbs its better to keep the lights a bit higher than usual to allow the spectrums to blend. Putting narrow-spectrum bulbs close to the canopy should result in poor growth. Similar issues have come up in the LED community in terms of distance to canopy and spectrum mixing. Putting your LEDs too close doesn't work well. How high off the canopy have you been putting your lights okthanks2 and RedOctober? Anybody thinks this might be a factor in what we're hearing lately?
Mine have been fairly close ~2-4 inches or so. I swapped out the Super Actinic for a Flora Sun. So now I have 3 Flora Suns and 1 Coral Sun. I was getting that twisted/deformed leaf phenomenon which could be from the lights being too close or it could be a nutrient issue. The water temps have gotten rather high into the 70's which may be causing some nutrient deficiencies and slowing growth as well. The T5 does raise the temps in the room into the 80's and I don't have any real good way of cooling it, so the plants sometimes have to negotiate high rez temps.
 

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
RedOctober, the reason growth has stopped is because these bulbs do not work for some strains. Seems as though some strains prefer the RED over any blue at all. Try the 2 Flora Suns and 2 6500K for a week and see what happens, I'm sure you will be shitless with surprise. red causes stretching, blue causes tight internodes
Do they sell those 6500K's @ Petco or Home Depot? Or would I have to order them online?
Do they have to be Spectralux? Because think Home Depot has some 6500K T5's (could be 5000K though), but I have no idea what the brand is or the spectrum. I would assume that like every other bulb, not all 6500's are created equal.
 

Undercover Cop

Active Member
Deleted posts? What? Dick turd #2. Enough with the lies. Please don't respond to anymore of my posts. You pretty much only come in at the end of someone else's insult to add more insults. That is very adolescent behavior. I really don't care how old you are, but please do not talk to me or about me anymore. Anyone else have any other crap to say? Keep it to yourself.
Yes, between posts 2009 and 2010 you posted about 8 times where you insulted myself, prof and hyroot mixed with other generally negative comments. This is why in post 2013 Hyroot comments on you calling others teenagers... and you continue still, calling others dickturds and liars when everyone else knows otherwise... can we please stop
 

okthanks2

Active Member
Do they sell those 6500K's @ Petco or Home Depot? Or would I have to order them online?
Do they have to be Spectralux? Because think Home Depot has some 6500K T5's (could be 5000K though), but I have no idea what the brand is or the spectrum. I would assume that like every other bulb, not all 6500's are created equal.
I've tried about 5 different types of daylight bulbs. They are all pretty close in comparison as far as color goes, but some lack lifespan. So far I've found the Zoo Med Ultra Suns to do a fairly good job but they are quite spendy(about $11). The spectralux's are what came in my Sunblaze and they have worked extremely well for the past year. It is about time to switch them out for new ones though. I am also pretty sure that home depot's T5's are NOT high output. Maybe it's different at the store near you, but here at least they are only normal output T5's. I have done some researching for some other cheaper resources for 6500K bulbs and have found a brand called Plusrite. They are about $2 a bulb if you get them in quantity. I have read reviews that they are pretty descent but haven't tried them yet. Any 6500K will do as long as it doesn't shit out on you early. Keep in mind here that the bulbs that are REALLY doing the most are the PINK bulbs. (FloraSuns, plant grow, floramax, gro-lux, plant and aquarium, procolor, aqua-glo etc.) I wouldn't be surprised if that is all you need for a good harvest. But the only reason I add the 6500K is for vegging for the added blue and green. To try and keep the plants shorter.
 

okthanks2

Active Member
That wasn't the case for me. I kept the bulbs as close as possible >2" off the canopy.
I know I've already asked you, but what bulbs are you using for veg and how many of each? Also, what type of strain are you running? What nutes? Everything is still looking awesome as before. I'm sure if I was still running the NL strain I wouldn't be having any problem whatsoever, since that strain will grow anywhere. The last strains I've been working with are BB and OG and they have been proven to be REAL biatches. I have NEVER seen a plant that refuses to grow under 6500K lights alone. The OG has been about 4 times harder to grow than the BB, but it is sooooo worth every minute. I have read that a lot of people don't have much luck with the OG and only get small flowers (although high quality). I'm actually starting to understand the OG now and get what it wants. Pretty much you can NEVER say NO to OG or you will be ignored for a long time. LOVES being foliar fed, LOVES the Mg, LOVES the RED light, HATES being dry, HATES eating more than necessary, absolutely LOVES the 24 hour light cycle and HATES excessive blue light(seems strange but this strain would NOT grow under a hortilux blue 400w MH no matter how much I begged it to and no matter how little or much it ate!).
 

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
I've tried about 5 different types of daylight bulbs. They are all pretty close in comparison as far as color goes, but some lack lifespan. So far I've found the Zoo Med Ultra Suns to do a fairly good job but they are quite spendy(about $11). The spectralux's are what came in my Sunblaze and they have worked extremely well for the past year. It is about time to switch them out for new ones though. I am also pretty sure that home depot's T5's are NOT high output. Maybe it's different at the store near you, but here at least they are only normal output T5's. I have done some researching for some other cheaper resources for 6500K bulbs and have found a brand called Plusrite. They are about $2 a bulb if you get them in quantity. I have read reviews that they are pretty descent but haven't tried them yet. Any 6500K will do as long as it doesn't shit out on you early. Keep in mind here that the bulbs that are REALLY doing the most are the PINK bulbs. (FloraSuns, plant grow, floramax, gro-lux, plant and aquarium, procolor, aqua-glo etc.) I wouldn't be surprised if that is all you need for a good harvest. But the only reason I add the 6500K is for vegging for the added blue and green. To try and keep the plants shorter.
You're absolutely right, the Home Depot ones aren't HO; I didn't even think about that. I was hoping that I could at least order them from an aquarium store if not buy em locally. I won't order anything from a grow store personally. I could get the Ultra Suns @ Petco though if they are the same as the 6500's. I'm just looking at the two graphs of the Ultra Sun and the spectralux and they look fairly similar. Also you had posted the graph for the GE 6500K on page 145 which looks basically the same as the Ultra Sun. So I guess any one of these would do? Petco is probably the easiest to buy from so I guess the Ultra Sun will be my version of the 6500K. I like that you are doing side by side experiments, and even though intuitively the 6500's red peak is not optimal (610nm), there may be some property about it that creates a synergy with the other bulbs in veg to create growth. I'm going to give it a try. I will start with 2 Flora Suns and 2 Ultra Suns alternating, and maybe bump it up to 3 and 3 if it works.

I am pretty happy with my flower combo of 3 Flora Suns, 2 Coral Waves, 3 Red Suns, but if a 6500K would help there too, I'd swap out a Coral Wave or a Flora Sun. Have you noticed the 6500K having any effect on flower, or just veg?
 

Attachments

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
I'm sure this has been asked a billion times but how do you get your pics to appear in the post "in line" instead of as attachments like UnderCurrent does?
 

okthanks2

Active Member
You're absolutely right, the Home Depot ones aren't HO; I didn't even think about that. I was hoping that I could at least order them from an aquarium store if not buy em locally. I won't order anything from a grow store personally. I could get the Ultra Suns @ Petco though if they are the same as the 6500's. I'm just looking at the two graphs of the Ultra Sun and the spectralux and they look fairly similar. Also you had posted the graph for the GE 6500K on page 145 which looks basically the same as the Ultra Sun. So I guess any one of these would do? Petco is probably the easiest to buy from so I guess the Ultra Sun will be my version of the 6500K. I like that you are doing side by side experiments, and even though intuitively the 6500's red peak is not optimal (610nm), there may be some property about it that creates a synergy with the other bulbs in veg to create growth. I'm going to give it a try. I will start with 2 Flora Suns and 2 Ultra Suns alternating, and maybe bump it up to 3 and 3 if it works.

I am pretty happy with my flower combo of 3 Flora Suns, 2 Coral Waves, 3 Red Suns, but if a 6500K would help there too, I'd swap out a Coral Wave or a Flora Sun. Have you noticed the 6500K having any effect on flower, or just veg?
I've read in MANY reviews that the GE starcoat 6500K bulbs don't last very long. I would try for the Plusrite 6500K brand. They will have the number 865 in the model #. If you can find a bulb with 965 in the model # that would be even better, I'm pretty sure the CRI rating is higher on those.

As far as FLOWER goes, I haven't even gotten to flowering yet with T5's because I flower under 1000w HPS super Horti's. I will be experimenting with the flower stage under T5's eventually after I get the veg figured out. I don't really think you need any 6500K for flower. There is already a nice even mixture of wavelengths in the FloraSuns or any of the plant grow bulbs. I would think that a 50/50 mixture of FloraSuns and RedSuns would produce really well on their own. Then, for the last 2 to 4 weeks, try some blue/UV lighting to see if you can get the buds to swell. I've also heard that some throw in a few 6500K during the final stage instead of the blue/UV for the same reason since they already have the UV and BLUE light phosphors inside. Actually, on second thought, I would take out those Coral Waves and do 4 Flora Sun and 4 Red Sun, then at the last 2-4 weeks replace 1 each of the Flora's and Red's with the 2 Coral Waves. Those Coral Waves are Actinic bulbs with some added Red. I would use those for finishing and NOT the entire flower cycle. Since you've already used the Coral Waves for the entire flower cycle and are familiar with the results, I would try taking them out next time until finishing to compare the results. So for flowering do, 50% Redsun 50% FloraSun, then at the last 2-4 weeks throw the Coral's in there.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I do believe this is a false statement. Got any evidence or research to back this up? Not trying to be a smart ass or anything, just genuinely interested.
I read it in dj shorts book, Growing Acceptionable Cannibis. When I get back home in 2 days. I can site it. Im out of town for work. I'll try see if I can find it online.

If I remember right it said plants produce most of their fiber chlorophyll at night an lack of woul pro long the flowering phase
 

okthanks2

Active Member
Wanted to share this:

Actinic

These tubes emit light only from the blue end of the spectrum and are used in marine setups to supply the blue that is missing from normal aquarium lighting but is required by marine algae, anemones and corals. They are usually only available from specialty aquarium stores and are not cheap. They have little or no application for growing freshwater aquarium plants.
http://aquaria.net/articles/lighting/FAQ/fluorescent/
Since these ocean dwelling photosynthetic creatures live at such a deep level in the water, they have adapted to only using the light available that can penetrate the water at those depths. The only wavelengths that can reach the bottom of the ocean at those depths are the UV, blue, or Actinic type wavelength.

 

okthanks2

Active Member

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
As a guy who current
Y is begging my plants under 4 8 bulb batboys and 2 4 bulb generic T5's I can say you are all probably over thinking it.

I have yet to see growth from anyone like what can be achieved just simply begging und 6500 grow bulbs from Quantum and vegging under ALL Bloom bulbs which are 3000k and also from Quantum. $10 each.

I will be running more experiments as well soon mixing in some Red Suns and Fiji Purples in flower.

Check out this vid. All Bloom Bulbs 3000k. No clue of spectrum but cheap. Also a C02 burner in room and solid growing methods methods using a sealed room.

[video=youtube;gyG_SfvHCHE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyG_SfvHCHE&sns=em[/video]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyG_SfvHCHE&sns=em



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