Best ways to increae yield. Tell us your secrets!!

[gladstoned]

As suggested by longroot on another thread.

I am glad that most of you are here and thanks for debating the shit out of this topic. Lets start a new thread on ways we've found to increase yield. That should be a good one.

oh ya. Plus rep for anyone that helps me double my yield. lol.

 

[Timmahh]

larger buckets support more room for root growth. more root growth ability the larger the plant mass that can be gown/supported.

altering feedings a bit thru bloom can have some effect.
but overall, healthy roots, happy girls, proper lighting and feeding schedules.

 

[cheeswreck]

larger buckets support more room for root growth. more root growth ability the larger the plant mass that can be gown/supported.

altering feedings a bit thru bloom can have some effect.
but overall, healthy roots, happy girls, proper lighting and feeding schedules.

wow glad this should triple your yield

 

[gladstoned]

Actually yes - that is good info.

 

[lampworker]

Use a variety of micro life. I use three different innoculants and will be introducing another soon. All bought at a local grow shop, they should all be pretty readily available I would think. At transplant I cover the bottom and sides the of the transplant hole with Plant Success granules. Once a week I make a mix of Great White Shark, Myco Madness and some molasses in a five gallon bucket and bubble it over night to really grow the number of micro life. I am going to try to run the "Bountea" compost tea soon aswell. I added these things one by one over time and at each point that I did, yield and quality all went up enough to notice. I am all organic now and am putting out better yields than when I was juicing them with synthetics and boosters and everything else turbo charged. My understanding is that synthetics kill micro life but I became a believer while still using the synthetics. You probably know all I am saying here but I have learned not to assume. I hope this helps. If you dont already use these things, they arent expensive and worth the money. I like to keep things simple but in this case it pays to not be penny wise and dollar stupid.

 

[blissfest]

Actually yes - that is good info.

Not really, larger buckets dont mean shit if they are not packed with roots. The idea is to have the right sized plant in the right bucket where it is almost root bound. I have done 1/2 lb. plants in 3 gal. smart pots, the roots were packed tight as hell.

feed EVERY watering, LOTS of light.

PM me and I'll tell you a kick ass feed sched.

 

[gladstoned]

I would like that schedule for sure, but I do respectfully disagree about the buckets. Subcool has gone into great detail about the benefits of transplanting early when there is no possibility of plant getting root bound. And working up to a 7 gal nursery pot. You may be right, I am learning more than teaching, but I took note to transplant early into big pot. MORE ROOT = MORE FRUIT is what I roll with.
https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/360147-transplanting.html

 

[Dirtydubbin13]

CO2 IN DA GROWWW ROOM!!!! Advanced Nutrientss

 

[Pimpernickel]

Use a screen, get a light meter and use it to help you set your plant height through it.

 

[st0wandgrow]

I would like that schedule for sure, but I do respectfully disagree about the buckets. Subcool has gone into great detail about the benefits of transplanting early when there is no possibility of plant getting root bound. And working up to a 7 gal nursery pot. You may be right, I am learning more than teaching, but I took note to transplant early into big pot. MORE ROOT = MORE FRUIT is what I roll with.
https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/360147-transplanting.html

I think the bigger buckets are relative to how long you will veg the plant before 12/12. It stands to reason that the longer the plant veg's, the bigger it will get, thus having a larger root mass ..... which usually equates to a bigger yield.

Glad, I used to focus on how much I could yield from a plant. Now I understand that your yield is based upon lumens and space. Whether you stick one huge plant in a given area, or 6 smaller ones, your yield should be substantially similar. Aside from supplementing with Co2, and perhaps adding some additional lighting, most of the stuff you can/will do will make a negligible difference. Topping, training, transplanting, gimmicky nutrients *might* help a bit, but to me the juice isn't worth the squeeze most times.

Get to know your plants, give them plenty of sunshine, Co2, and a dialed in grow, and you'll reach close to the plants full potential each and every time.

 

[st0wandgrow]

Glad, if you're interested in maximizing your output for a given area, take a look at some old threads by a former member named "Hobbes". He came up with a method of training his plants called the "crop circle of buds" (CCOB). I use a modified version of what he does with my tomato cages.

He has some old grow journals and what not where he goes through his process in pretty good detail. But again, his method will require a longer veg time by virtue of having to top and train the plant ..... so you have to determine if it's worth it. In a 12 month period, if you could get one more rotation in to your garden by not vegging for so long, would that make up for the lost yield with the smaller plants?

I only use his method on my Kali Mist because I find it's a great way to control the canopy of a lanky sativa like KM.

 

[gladstoned]

That is precisely scenario I am researching. Getting my veg times and techniques worked out. And to make matters worse I am popping a bunch of seeds looking for the keepers.

 

[bob harris]

I've never concentrated on yield...just healthy happy plants, and the yield comes with that. But root mass, mycrohaze, and micro bugs in the soil are in my opinion the best thing you can have. I grow in 7 gal pots...at harvest they are root full..the entire soil mass will pull right out of the pot by the cut off stem...

 

[gladstoned]

I use the myco. What micro bugs?

 

[bob harris]

I use the myco. What micro bugs?

God, I don't know them by name..but the natural bacteria that is in poop to eat it and break it down. You'll get it from guano, chicken poop, any natural fert. The problem is that organic and hydro differ in what will stay alive in the medium...hydro system in many cases feed the plant directly..just a root ball with nute rich water keeping them wet and aerated. In organic you never feed the plant..you feed the soil, let the micro beasties break down the ferts, and the micro beasties feed the plant.

Now organics will never give you the yeild potential that hydro does (in the same time frame) but it will give you..well organic meds.

 

[gladstoned]

God, I don't know them by name..but the natural bacteria that is in poop to eat it and break it down. You'll get it from guano, chicken poop, any natural fert. The problem is that organic and hydro differ in what will stay alive in the medium...hydro system in many cases feed the plant directly..just a root ball with nute rich water keeping them wet and aerated. In organic you never feed the plant..you feed the soil, let the micro beasties break down the ferts, and the micro beasties feed the plant.

Now organics will never give you the yeild potential that hydro does (in the same time frame) but it will give you..well organic meds.

OK, so they are included in the living soil or actually the living part of the living soil. lol

 

[bob harris]

OK, so they are included in the living soil or actually the living part of the living soil. lol

Yes..that's as good a way as any to describe the concept. But if your medium isn't living soil...say just hydroton pellets, the theory won't work.

 

[SoilFarming]

I think molasses has added to my yield this time using 1 tbs a gallon.
I started adding it in the 4th week of flowering and it seems the girls packed on some extra bud weight overnight.

 

[axionjaxson]

WAIT TIL THEY ARE DONE.dude out

 

[bob harris]

I think molasses has added to my yield this time using 1 tbs a gallon.
I started adding it in the 4th week of flowering and it seems the girls packed on some extra bud weight overnight.

Absolutely. Molasses, at least in organics, feeds the micro beasties, not the plant directly. But it encouroges the micro beasties to go into overdrive and process the remaining nutrients in the soil, so the plant can use them.