bassman999
Well-Known Member
I hear a lot of talk about UV bulbs as of late. I have to admit I am intrigued!
As am I. Full spectrum sounds better than narrow spectrum. That's why I always thought that using a MH and HPS together would be better than either alone. Adding UVB to that would be even better.I hear a lot of talk about UV bulbs as of late. I have to admit I am intrigued!
North40 - Thanks for the info. I will do some research on Sunpulse bulbs.Hey looking good there Berkman. I really like that stadium style scrog you got going on, I was thinking for trying something like that myself. I'll have to keep an eye on this....
Don't know if you guys have heard of Sunpulse bulbs but they have a line of lamps for digi's that are full spectrum. I did a run back in '10 with 4x600 sunpulse bulbs and used the 3k bulb and the 10k. The 3k is the red spec more like hps and the 10k is the super uv last 2 weeks of flowering for trich production lamp. the 3k I used from start to the last 2 weeks. they worked great vegged like normal and flowering was normal like a 600w hps, nice buds, dense but not big. then I used the 10k for the final 10 days and saw no measurable difference than if I had just left the 3k in. Well what I learned later was the glass from my air cooled hoods was killing the uv light from my 10k's. Moral of the story if you want full potential or any for that matter from your uv lights don't put glass in front of them. Also if your interested in trying a full spectrum grow to mimic nature, Sunpulse offers the other kelvins for the full spectrum in various wattages from 100 to 1k. Check out the side of the box for a better picture of the spectrum with different k bulbs.....View attachment 2281971 read more about it on the sunpulse site too...
stay up
-north40
ps all the lamps are mh they just get the right spectrum going on somehow, so my 3k "red spec" lams where white like any other mh. They work in all digi ballasts not sure if they work in coil or mag mh ballasts though....
pps Now I don't use them i personally get better results using a 600w mh Ushio opti blue for veg and a 1k opti red for flowering.
Is it worth it?ding ding ding. i cant remember i looked it up once. something like a couple hundy with the cordage needed for three bulbs.
Yeah i'm using a reptiglo uvb 26 watt 10.0 cfl that i found on amazon fo' cheap... there are also uvb bulbs that you can find at petco for $40.00 there the tube style .. which i could see mounting to a hood possiblY???? one on each side.. I run my bulb during the full 12/12... i also began "tanning" her a week before flower to get her used to the bulb before flower... i think the hairs on my girl are going crazy... the way i see it .. uvb exits in nature and the better we replicate nature the better the result..As am I. Full spectrum sounds better than narrow spectrum. That's why I always thought that using a MH and HPS together would be better than either alone. Adding UVB to that would be even better.
Interesting, thx for the info.Yeah i'm using a reptiglo uvb 26 watt 10.0 cfl that i found on amazon fo' cheap... there are also uvb bulbs that you can find at petco for $40.00 there the tube style .. which i could see mounting to a hood possiblY???? one on each side.. I run my bulb during the full 12/12... i also began "tanning" her a week before flower to get her used to the bulb before flower... i think the hairs on my girl are going crazy... the way i see it .. uvb exits in nature and the better we replicate nature the better the result..
http://youtu.be/lfiI78uN3Ks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfiI78uN3Ks
200 - 280 nm | UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to cannabis plants because it is highly toxic. |
280 - 315 nm | Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes cannabis plants colors to fade. |
315 - 380 nm | Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to cannabis plant growth. |
380 - 400 nm | Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range. |
400 - 520 nm | This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth) |
520 - 610 nm | This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments. |
610 - 720 nm | This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding) |
720 - 1000 nm | There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat. |
genious??? really?its 0 cfm loss either way genious. lol.
A 2 minute pause sounds too long to me but I don't know shit because I have never used one before. I think a 10 second delay is a little more reasonable but still too long in my opinion. The light should be moving most of the time and only pause at the ends because the plants at the ends only get hit once where everything else gets hit in one direction and then again in the other. Going on this thinking, I would set the pause at the ends to twice the time it takes to hit the end and reverse. 2 or 3 seconds seems about right.Being the miserly cheap ass that I am, I would let the light sit a minute or 2 at each end. It will also increase the life of the motor. A 2 minute travel with a 2 min delay would theoretically double the life. Throw it on a kill-a-watt if you have one to see what it costs to run.