Root Aphids! What to do?!
- Thread starter Ender87i
- Start date
oldschooltofu
Well-Known Member
MET 52 works. once i started using it, no more soil bugs. i bought another 2# for this next round.
it works best if you mix it into soil first (takes 2 weeks to innoculate)
try a combo of mighty wash and mixing in some met 52 if you are already flowering.
it works best if you mix it into soil first (takes 2 weeks to innoculate)
try a combo of mighty wash and mixing in some met 52 if you are already flowering.
I put some ground cover cloth on top of the container and ran aerated water through. This is like half hydro and half soil. The goal is to keep the soil wet enough that the RA can't breathe but enough O2 in the water for the roots. I also put a bowl on the top with apple cider vinegar to attract them as they wander out. I didn't but it would be a good idea to grease the base of the stalk with tenderfoot or Vaseline to catch the critters as they migrate out of the wet.
BatCave
Well-Known Member
After 3yrs of growing with no bugs 2 weeks ago I found aphids in my veg tent and my hydro shop turned me onto GoGnats which is mostly cedar oil and worked great. Used 5ml per gallon of water and drenched my plants, did a second application 4 days later and haven't seen any since then. Love the cedar smell and its works on aphids, mites, gnats, etc...! Good luck with yours!
BatCave
Well-Known Member
dbkick,
I had reservations about drenching the soil with the GoGnat cerdar oil but luckily didn't see any negative effects afterwards other than being droopy from the drench , no burn or problems I have seen. It did make the water a little milky white. My guy at the hydro shop says he adds a 5ml shot of it to his plants biweekly, more than I am willing to do but says its keeps his indoor garden bug free.
I had reservations about drenching the soil with the GoGnat cerdar oil but luckily didn't see any negative effects afterwards other than being droopy from the drench , no burn or problems I have seen. It did make the water a little milky white. My guy at the hydro shop says he adds a 5ml shot of it to his plants biweekly, more than I am willing to do but says its keeps his indoor garden bug free.
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
My experience is in Coco, with the white very small RAs and flying.
Had success 2 yrs ago with Pyganic EC 1.4, and a little Azamax in flower and Merit 75 in Veg. Also, many bug bombs (pyrethrin in flower, cypermethrin in veg) and a lot of cleaning, quarantine, and so on. RAs were in all stages of growth.
Just got the RAs again a few weeks ago, only found in flower. Treated all Veg plants with Merit 75, using yellow sticky traps and Cypermethrin bombs (Hotshot Bed Bug and Flea) All flower plants with Pyganic EC 1.4 at 30-40ml/gallon, then again 3-4 days later. Then Azamax at 15/ml gallon 3-4 days after. Set off a pyrethrin bug bomb in flower (4 wks from finish) shortly after chasing some flyers out of the coco with the Azamax. Roots were damaged first from the RAs, then the oils. Now feeding every feeding with HnG Root Excel. Hoping that the plant can finish with what it has for roots.
Have not seen an RA since the first Pyganic treatment. Am watching very closely and trying to lay off treating the flowering plants so they can recover and finish up. From the experience a few years ago... you want to hit them hard and keep hitting them even after you are not seeing them anymore, however, you want to make sure you do not kill your roots with the treatments.
Have been hearing about Mighty Wash and want to give it a try soon. If it really works, it sounds like a much better option.
You can apply a similar treatment with hydro. You will want to use your grade 11 on this one and find suitable ml/gallon for hydro. It will be less than coco.
Had success 2 yrs ago with Pyganic EC 1.4, and a little Azamax in flower and Merit 75 in Veg. Also, many bug bombs (pyrethrin in flower, cypermethrin in veg) and a lot of cleaning, quarantine, and so on. RAs were in all stages of growth.
Just got the RAs again a few weeks ago, only found in flower. Treated all Veg plants with Merit 75, using yellow sticky traps and Cypermethrin bombs (Hotshot Bed Bug and Flea) All flower plants with Pyganic EC 1.4 at 30-40ml/gallon, then again 3-4 days later. Then Azamax at 15/ml gallon 3-4 days after. Set off a pyrethrin bug bomb in flower (4 wks from finish) shortly after chasing some flyers out of the coco with the Azamax. Roots were damaged first from the RAs, then the oils. Now feeding every feeding with HnG Root Excel. Hoping that the plant can finish with what it has for roots.
Have not seen an RA since the first Pyganic treatment. Am watching very closely and trying to lay off treating the flowering plants so they can recover and finish up. From the experience a few years ago... you want to hit them hard and keep hitting them even after you are not seeing them anymore, however, you want to make sure you do not kill your roots with the treatments.
Have been hearing about Mighty Wash and want to give it a try soon. If it really works, it sounds like a much better option.
You can apply a similar treatment with hydro. You will want to use your grade 11 on this one and find suitable ml/gallon for hydro. It will be less than coco.
trouble27
Active Member
Man these little bastards are driving me nuts thought I had a mag deficiency for a while which I thought was odd cause I've never had any probe in veg even with large plants I'm thinking that I got them this spring during last rain storm I had some ant invaders into 1 of my veg rooms didn't think much of it put down ant bait trap and left it at that they went on there way didn't see them for about a month then the ants came back after waterings thought they just liked the hng line of nuts lol my mistake turned out ants farm aphids like we farm cattle moving them around making them safe spreading from 1plant to the next so started out with sns that just irritated them they crawled out of the medium could see hundreds of them scurrying around so I threw some balls of masking tape on top the coco and trapped a lot of em also hitem with some don't bug me when they were running around worked pretty good made me feel better to murder some ra fucks did this every few days for bout week and half then got some Azamax mixed highest recommended dose per gal think was 1ounce per gal root drenched them all think all it did was fuck up my root zone as the plants took a nose dive couple days after I have moved on to ortho max at 1.5 ounces per gal did my research and wanted to try something non systemic I hate pesticides but cannot afford to loose my gardens if this doesn't work gonna hunt down a local farmer and get the best ag chem I can . I will let ya know how the ortho max goes it contains bifinefrin and does not translocate through the plant but still not something I wanted to do something i had to do good luck man I feel ur pain along with too many others good luck with ur war. Mine are brown with what looks like a hard shell body .
physiologia
Member
I have a wicked case of root aphids
1 gallon containers in coco, hand water
so far I've done this
60 mL per gallon Bayer Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable, 0.235% imidacloprid two times in veg spaced 5 days apart
while transplanting into one gallons I sprayed to roots with a pyrethrin spray can
120 mL per gallon Bayer Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable 3 times in the first two weeks of flower
60 mL per gallon SNS 203 twice over 1 week
60 ml per gallon Azamax twice over a week
I bought Pyganic EC 1.4 for $ 90 USD a quart
8 mL a gallon was a recommendation
no effect at all what so ever
I still have root aphids - hundreds of them in every container
I just tried an experiment
I drew up a volume of Pyganic (Pycrap as far as I'm concerned) in a dropper and dropped the concentrate directly on individual root aphids I could see crawling around the surface
no effect at all
If you have root aphids you will loose
empty your room and start over, save yourself the heartbreak
If you have root aphids - you are fucked. There's nothing more to say, it's that simple.
I'm sorry.
The thing that's weird though with my situation is that the plants look and smell great. If I can keep this up and maintain until the end (I'm halfway)
I'm pulling grade A, top shelf.
trouble27
Active Member
I just did an experiment myself with ortho max bug b gone I had some cuttings in glass of water for about 3 days covered with foil so I checked them earlier they had aphids all stages of growth so I took a cutting out got my nute mix with the ortho in it filled a shot glass and dunked the stem in it instantly paralyzing and killing all but the more developed little bastards with thicker skin dunked again then dead had to mix almost 2x rec dose I noticed it doesn't have same effect on fliers when I water they come flying out the cocoa and I hit em with the don't bug me and it kills em . Anyone getting ready to try Azamax should test on 1plant first mine did not like at all think this did more damage than the aphids at this point just my opinion .
physiologia
Member
thanks trouble27, I'll look into Ortho.
I'm also going to up the Pyganic 1.4 from 8 mL to 35 mL a gallon
one more thing I should mention
I do not have fliers.
I guess with all the treatments I have not eliminated them,
I've been able to control them.
I'm also going to up the Pyganic 1.4 from 8 mL to 35 mL a gallon
one more thing I should mention
I do not have fliers.
I guess with all the treatments I have not eliminated them,
I've been able to control them.
Ender87i
Well-Known Member
I completely restarted because they destroyed everything..
One of my plants completely croaked, and the rest of them showed really bad deficiency symptoms
as well as drooped a little more than normal, and stopped growing completely, dropping leaves, etc..
It was terrible, at first i thought it was a deficiency and tried everything lol i was going crazy.
But once i learned about root aphids, it was pretty clear thats what was going on. Just horrible.
With my new fresh start, heres what I did:
-Completely clean out my system: buckets, lines, reservoir, etc.
-Vacuum my room, seal any cracks i could find, bomb the room.
-Top the hydroton with perlite, use rockwool covers, and keep their sleeves on.
My final step is the most important in my opinion - by keeping the sleeves on the rockwool, it covers
the sides, and by using rockwool covers, it keeps the top covered. Then, by using a dressing layer of
super-fine perlite, it makes it so the bugs cant access the rockwool or roots as easily as with hydroton alone.
Normally i would have naked rockwool buried in hydroton. But hydroton has TONS of cracks and openings for
the bugs to get through, and easy access to the shallow-buried wet rockwool. But by burying the rockwool cube
deeper, using the sleeves and covers, and topping with perlite, ive had no problems so far. Im crossing my fingers
it stays this way. But i think the key to avoiding them (after restarting) is to simply make sure there is NO moisture
available for them to sense, or find their way to. And by doing all of these things, they probably have no idea the
moist rockwool is even there.
One of my plants completely croaked, and the rest of them showed really bad deficiency symptoms
as well as drooped a little more than normal, and stopped growing completely, dropping leaves, etc..
It was terrible, at first i thought it was a deficiency and tried everything lol i was going crazy.
But once i learned about root aphids, it was pretty clear thats what was going on. Just horrible.
With my new fresh start, heres what I did:
-Completely clean out my system: buckets, lines, reservoir, etc.
-Vacuum my room, seal any cracks i could find, bomb the room.
-Top the hydroton with perlite, use rockwool covers, and keep their sleeves on.
My final step is the most important in my opinion - by keeping the sleeves on the rockwool, it covers
the sides, and by using rockwool covers, it keeps the top covered. Then, by using a dressing layer of
super-fine perlite, it makes it so the bugs cant access the rockwool or roots as easily as with hydroton alone.
Normally i would have naked rockwool buried in hydroton. But hydroton has TONS of cracks and openings for
the bugs to get through, and easy access to the shallow-buried wet rockwool. But by burying the rockwool cube
deeper, using the sleeves and covers, and topping with perlite, ive had no problems so far. Im crossing my fingers
it stays this way. But i think the key to avoiding them (after restarting) is to simply make sure there is NO moisture
available for them to sense, or find their way to. And by doing all of these things, they probably have no idea the
moist rockwool is even there.
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
Whoa, that is some serious bayer treatments for 2nd week of flower. Damn.
Mine came back too. 8/ml of pyganic will not work. 30-40 ml/gal is what works. I applied two treatments, spread by 3 days. Would have done more but the plants/roots needed food and root repair. The root aphids were nowhere to be found for about 10-12 days. I just spotted one in the coco. It took a long time to find it, but it is there. I believe a flyer or two escaped the bombs and treatments.
So, picking up more Pyganic... treating again at 40/ml gal, two times. That should get me to harvest... Then, doing a thorough cleaning, treating all veg with pyganic followed by Merit 75. Also, intense cypermethrin bombs, spread by three days, 3 times. All veg is quarantined and being treated with Merit now. After the room is bombed and thoroughly clean will start up the flower rooms again.
All in all, it set me back about $150, and 4 weeks behind schedule. Not a big deal.
This is assuming that they do not return after my treatments and cleaning is complete. Last time they didn't. It's been two years since have had to do this.
trouble27
Active Member
sounds like were in the same boat that we are trying like hell to keep from sinking . im about month and a half behind i dont realy want to think about the money lost on all the treatments prob 500 or more by know im switching to flower tomorrow i noticed that the plants i have in 10 gal pots are much healthier than some in 5 gal pots think the bigger plants recover faster and maybe like mites they like some plants more than others . i found a few fliers this afternoon gonna hitem again tonight opperation aphid anniahilation begins in a few hrs.
