So I listened to people on RIU about flushing....And this happens..

TrynaGroSumShyt

Well-Known Member
cool, im glad your program works for you, but most people i kno wwho claim to nto flush do( in a certain way) but dont call it that . . .

im glad you reuse yuor soil

im glad you dont drain to waste

doesnt change the fact that many dont run liek you and do produce weed that burns dirty, adn then they try to sell it to people fucking up there lungs
very true, everybody is different. But i would like to re-iterate that i do only feed water and water/w molasses and maybe kelp meal (dry or liquid) in the end to feed the soil. Like you said it's my system and even it could be tweeked.
 

Samwell Seed Well

Well-Known Member
i think that new growers need to take more time and pay attention to there plants

it takes time to learn how a plant in any certain environment will mature .. ive dabbled in organics . . . .i need to try again . .
 

rocpilefsj

Misguided Angel
I haven't "flushed" for years and my buds burn the whitest ash straight after drying. This works for me but will not work for everyone obviously. Do what works best for you, but the most important part is to get a nice slow dry for your buds!
 

TrynaGroSumShyt

Well-Known Member
ok ,what is the argument here ?! i think theres a misunderstanding somewhere in this.

.basicly i thought the issue was op followed advice NOT to give plain water to his plants and endedup with harsh buds full of nutrient residue.Maybe i am too high to understand what the argument is ,but you cannot keep giving your plant nutes up to the end .otherwise ,those nutes will be present in the buds.its got little to do with drying or curing.like you know a bud hasnt been flushed when it snaps crackles and pops ,or burns with a green tint...you can't cure or dry magnesium residue out of your buds..you gotta flush it out

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Ok man. all i know is i've got some smooth ass white ash burning reefer round my way, no flush needed.
 

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
yeah man you need to flush ..i dont know who would have been saying not to..bad advice.Even with organics you need a week to 10 days.Yes the plant does suffer in the last week or 2 without nutrients.But what it does is, it takes its enegery from the leaves ..thats why they go yellow at the end ,if youve done it right..You need to withhold the nurtrients for a week or 2 at the end so that the plant uses them all up and they wont be presnt in your finished buds..
Can you enlighten me as to how the plant will remove nutes from the buds if what you say is accurate, "takes it's energy from the leaves"?
Maybe I'm wrong, all this time I thought the buds were the product of the plant, not the nutrient source.:shock:
 

Samwell Seed Well

Well-Known Member
can you explain to us why it doesn't use stored energy from the leaves as it naturally matures


fact is, all plants go through a maturing phase . . . .and in thsi phaze the roots stop taking up most macro/micro's and start to prpare for self polination to further its genetics line, its science your small brain may not be able to comprehend a plants inherent instict to survive , but it happens, when we trigger this response by a long nutrient drought it fades and becuase smoother smoke and has better terps . . . . .

"product of light " lmfao . . ok capt half story . . .what exactly do you think allows photosynthesis to happen .. .magic?
 

NoBarriers

Well-Known Member
ok ,what is the argument here ?! i think theres a misunderstanding somewhere in this.

.basicly i thought the issue was op followed advice NOT to give plain water to his plants and endedup with harsh buds full of nutrient residue.Maybe i am too high to understand what the argument is ,but you cannot keep giving your plant nutes up to the end .otherwise ,those nutes will be present in the buds.its got little to do with drying or curing.like you know a bud hasnt been flushed when it snaps crackles and pops ,or burns with a green tint...you can't cure or dry magnesium residue out of your buds..you gotta flush it out

Some people who feed lightly may not need to flush ,but i think of you feed heavy or use a very nutrient rich soil from the beggining you need to flush.aka feed plain water for a week

no point arguing ,people have their own way of doing things,their own oppinions and beliefs ,and its unlikely anyone is going to be swayed one way or other.Im basing my views on a lot of reading and watching of videos online.But you go ahead and do what ever your comfortable with :peace:


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I don't flush and my buds are not harsh, ever. I don't care what some marketing campaign by companies in business to make huge profits claim on their feeding charts. Oh ya and I'm basing my views on four grows per year for the last four years and a few others before that.... I've never smoked bud that I watched grow on YouTube only the ones in my room and they smoke just fine :bigjoint:
 

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
I love when dozens of people with no botany education start to throw around their minor home gardening experience as fact, everyone busy calling each other names, trying to debate intricate biological mechanisms and processes they can't even begin to scientifically explain. All it looks like is:

bongsmilie:dunce::cuss::dunce::cuss:bongsmilie:eyesmoke::cuss::dunce::cuss::eyesmoke:bongsmilie:cuss::dunce::cuss::eyesmoke::cuss::dunce::cuss::eyesmoke::cuss::dunce::cuss::eyesmoke::dunce:
 

smokejoint

Active Member
^ How can advising to use no nutes for the last week be a marketing ploy?

I flush myself ,always have ,makes sense.If you don't get it you never will.Some stoners are dumb.
 

cannabiscultivation

Active Member
well...the pedals made a career for U2's "edge"

they are a spice...not a meal.


if you don't flush the dry must be drawn out longer....JMO...from my personal experience. soil and hydro
 

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
^^Obviously that applies to you too man. Explain to me how removing nutrients from the medium will reduce nutrient presence in the calyx that we smoke. In biological terms, please. If you can't do that, provide a tissue analysis of a control vs variable to prove it. Make sure it stands true for tomatoes and peppers. No MJ-specific forum or book references.
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
No ,i am not talking about flushing in that sense.. putting 5x container size through pot .. yes i know thats a correctional procedure .. i am talking about the process of replacing water+nutrients with just plain water for 1 week to 10 days prior to harvest ,so the plant uses all the nutrient salts built up in the soil and come harvest there is very little nutrient salts in the plant ,which gives a smoother smoke.. not talking about drowning the plant ..and there is really no argument about it ,you ask any manufacturer of nutrients and they will tell you to withhold the nutrients for a week or so before harvest

I think what you are referring to is called leaching.. either that or what i am referring to is called leeching..idk ,but i have heard it called flushing so thats what i call it
The terms themselves often become confused among growers, particularly when hydro becomes involved into the flushing equation. I don't feed anything additional b/c my nutes are pre-mixed into my soil blend, and are released very slowly over a long period. There isn't anything for me to stop doing, other than the molasses I use on occasion.

Also, C99 is one of the few strains I have found that tend to have leaves yellow/drop during flowering regardless of nutrients...I've been told it's inherent.
 

puffdatchronic

Well-Known Member
^^Obviously that applies to you too man. Explain to me how removing nutrients from the medium will reduce nutrient presence in the calyx that we smoke. In biological terms, please. If you can't do that, provide a tissue analysis of a control vs variable to prove it. Make sure it stands true for tomatoes and peppers. No MJ-specific forum or book references.
as you said your self ,i am not a botinist.All i know is that is what the advice is.

you saying ,rosenthal ,cervantes ,high times ,biobizz are all full of shit..?

I know who i belive .Like i said ,you dont wanan flush go ahead and have fun.ill take advice from good sources when i get it.
 

TrynaGroSumShyt

Well-Known Member
Lol, im not killing my soil for them!

Many textbooks talk about soil as a "Medium for Plant Growth". This view is certainly correct, but is this really all there is (or all we need to consider). If our objective is to achieve sustainable farming and organic soil enhancement, then we should be prepared to deal with things like the ecological succession of the food web in your living soil and take more of an agroecology-style approach to farming.
Bacteria are single-celled microorganisms that are vital for cycling nutrients in the soil. There are thousands of species of bacteria. In general, beneficial bacteria are usually aerobic, requiring oxygen to survive, while disease-causing ones thrive in low-oxygen environments. Many species of bacteria serve as decomposers, eating up dead plant matter and concentrating the nutrients in their bodies—one of the first steps in returning those plant building blocks to the soil. Bacteria bind all kinds of compounds into organic forms that will not leach out of the soil. Another group of bacteria collaborates with legumes to capture or "fix" atmospheric nitrogen and add it to the soil.
Fungi are strandlike microorganisms that help hold soil particles together and improve soil structure. They consume the harder-to-digest organic materials, such as dead leaves, pine needles, and fallen tree trunks. One type of fungi establishes mutually beneficial mycorrhizal relationships with plants, which allows the fungi to hold and transfer nutrients directly to plant roots. While many species of fungi are beneficial, others are responsible for plant diseases.
Protozoa include microorganisms like flagellates, amoebae, and ciliates, all of which eat bacteria. As protozoa consume bacteria, they release excess nutrients in soluble forms that can be utilized by plants. Protozoa also work with bacteria and fungi to build air passageways, letting oxygen, water, and roots move easily through the soil.
 

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
I'm saying that there is no evidence for the flushing methods they talk about in their books, so stick to peer-reviewed information. Prove me wrong. Provide the slightest shred of evidence that reducing root zone mineral content will affect the calyx levels before nearly killing the plant. Please. If you can't, you dont have a "good source". You just have "advice". Do as you like, but you dont obviously dont know the facts backing(or contradicting) the method you're defending. Just re-spewing the advice and defending it to the end without knowing why.
 

puffdatchronic

Well-Known Member
there has to be a reason why it is widely advised.There must be scientific evidence.It does seem reasonable that there will be residual plant food in the buds.

a quick google and i came up with this
It can mean the difference between a harsh or smooth smoke, a natural or chemical taste and - in some cases - an extra few grams of yield. Flushing is one of the most important parts of your grow; yet is also one of the most overlooked. Let's take a look at this simple, but often misunderstood, technique.

Why Flush?

When cultivating plants using mineral nutrients, the NPK levels within a plant can become unbalanced and excess elements are stored within the tissue of the plant. This is particularly true in the case of cannabis cultivation where additives are given to the plant to trigger a specific reaction or process. For example, after the first two weeks of the flowering period it is common to administer a PK additive to trigger bud development and increase the weight and density of the buds.
Think of the amount of flowering stimulators, catalysts, ignitors and boosters that are available on the market; each proclaiming to be more powerful and concentrated than the last. The high percentage of mineral elements contained in those products, undoubtedly force an increased yield (some incredibly so!), but if they are not flushed out, they will be stored in the plant and affect taste.
End product from plants that have not been flushed can suffer from a ‘chemical' taste, smokers often complain that weed has a different taste from soil grown, whereas in reality it is likely to have not been flushed properly.
Flushing also affects the ‘burn' of the end product. Next time you're smoking on some dealer-bought weed, take a look at the ash on the end of the joint; if it's been properly flushed, the ash should be light grey, with a fine, powdery texture. Ash created from burning weed that hasn't been flushed will be black, with a much more solid consistency and - in particularly bad cases - can pop and spark as the impurities still contained are ignited. I can recall a particularly nasty batch of commercial dope that crackled and popped so much, it was like toking on a fireworks display!!

For the best end product... flush!
What And When To Flush?

Any plant that has been raised on a mineral feed and additives should be flushed, regardless of the growing method or growing medium used. - plants have constant access to mineral nutrients and, provided the solution in the reservoir is balanced, will constantly take all the elements they need via active uptake. These elements will be stored, in the root zone and plant sap, all the way until harvest.
Plants grown in soil or coco will also store excess elements. The medium around the roots provide a buffer that protects against over fertilisation. So, unlike in hydro where too much nutrient has an immediate effect on the plant, a soil grown plant may show no effects of over feeding, despite having a build-up of minerals around the roots. Therefore, flushing is still necessary.
The exception to the rule is growing on organics. With a mineral nutrient the plants are fed directly, using elements that can be immediately taken up by the plant. With an organic feed, you are feeding the microbes within the soil. These microbes then produce elements that the plant takes up. The plant is not fed directly. As a result, there is no excess of minerals stored in the plant and you can feed until the day you chop.
One other thing to bear in mind is that a flushing product can be used to clear out any mineral build ups that have occurred through over-feeding, at any stage of development - a sort of colonic irrigation for plants! If your girls are starting to show signs of nutrient overdose - crisping at the edge of the leaves for example - use a flushing agent with water in your hydro system or pots. This will minimise the stress caused by the over-feed and aid your plants' recovery.

Black ash means excess minerals are still stored in the bud
How Does A Flush Work?

The simplest method of flushing is to just feed water in the last week or two before harvesting. The lack of elements being fed to the plant forces it to use up the excess elements stored within its tissue. This method is effective, but there is still likely to be some excess minerals left within the plant, particularly if concentrated mineral additives have been used.
There are various flush products on the market, each based on different techniques of removing, or forcing the use of, excess nutrients stored within the plant. These techniques include;
Stress - when the flush is administered it creates a root stress that forces energy in the plant to be expended, therefore using up the excess nutrients stored and ripening the plant at the same time. Some of the flushes that employ this technique are so powerful that they actually destroy the roots of the plant, triggering a survival instinct, forcing all of the energy into reproduction (i.e. the buds).
Mineral Salts - a good technique for pure hydroponic systems where the roots are exposed. Large mineral particles are added to the flushing solution, these particles are too large to be taken up by the plant, but when washed through the roots will attract any excess mineral deposits that have built up and wash them away.
Hormones - flushes containing natural plant hormones will trigger a natural reaction in the plant that forces it to mature and finish. This uses up excess minerals stored and also ripens the fruit, improving quality and yield.
Some of the better flushes on the market use a combination of techniques to get the best result.
Temptation is a dangerous thing for the home grower, from the excited first timer to the seasoned expert; when those buds get ripe, they're hard to resist! Just remember, for a smoother, tastier smoke, it's so worth hanging on that extra week. Trim and smoke a few air buds if you have to, just make sure you flush before you chop the main harvest.
And, don't forget to cure it properly!
Happy flushing!
 

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
There is literally not a single relevant fact in that entire piece. Again, peer-reviewd information please, not MJ forum advice.
 
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