Chuck that was Dyna-Gro GROW with pro-tekt, No cal/mag the first 2 weeks because the coco was not new. It was from seed and vegged maybe 40 days (from seed planting)
looks awesome,nice job. I have been using nothing but the Foliage pro with incredible success.Chuck that was Dyna-Gro GROW with pro-tekt, No cal/mag the first 2 weeks because the coco was not new. It was from seed and vegged maybe 40 days (from seed planting) Here is a plant 100% Coco with Sensi Base 12 ml gal, cal-mag first 2 weeks 3ml/gal, 1/4 ml pro-tekt.
Note some cupping. I decreased the Sensi to 10ml/gal to compensate. Plenty of green and good yields too.
I'm not against Dyna at all, I use it for veg all the time. Here is Sensi, here's your green !!
There was just so much wrong with what he said before I had to chime in. Apparently you also don't have any knowledge of large scale commercial farming and the distribution systems that they use. Yes what you are saying about corn production was true back in the 80's and early 90's. In order to meet the the current demands farmers and commercial greenhouses had to revolutionize their harvesting and distribution process. Those sugars that you are talking about that turn into starch over time is where it starts. Prior to harvest there is a ratio that farmers look at before they harvest to determine the time the plant will reach it peak ripeness when it gets to market. From there they can decide when it is best to harvest because they know about how long it will take to get to a supermarket for consumers."A 6 year old" is about right.
Sit, you can do your silly kiddie laugh all you want, but I thought I recommended you shut the fuck UP! Some of us know a bit about gardening and plant processes. You obviously don't but have the audacity to come in here and with a condescending tone, talk shit. There are certain vegetables and fruits which once pulled off the plant/vine/tree DO NOT continue to ripen! Corn is one of them. It holds its brix, sugar, for a while and then over time that sugar turns into starch. Peaches and grapes are another example. Once you get that sugar and chemistry (acids, flavoring compounds) to a certain point on the tree/vine, once harvested, it does NOT change. I grow both and I use a refractometer religiously to determine the peak of flavor, sugar, and ripeness.
Funny, measured one of my cantaloupe yesterday and it came in at a whopping 14*. Could smell the richness across the room from that fruit. I pull it when it's in a stem slip stage. Grapes are sugar sweet with a brix 22-27* at harvest. Average 23-24.
Excuse me?
Again......
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I noticed you had to stake your branches. I've had the same "problem" and read that it may be due to high nitrogen during flower. Any insights?Here's some pics of what Uncle Ben has done for me:
I would have more pictures....but you see.....I'm a relative newbie and had wasted my time my first couple of grows using some of the crap from the hydro store.
These plants are directly attributed to the info I got from Uncle Ben.
My apologies. I said kitehigh and now realize it was you who replied. Thanks
Think its a pretty decent plantThat plant was from a year ago and I pulled 3.5 oz. It was 1 of 5 plants under a 600w. It is a Super Lemon Haze. What is so bad about it? It's green and all. Lacked some foliage but that is inherent with the cross, however nice and green . I used Dyna-gro Grow just like HB advocated which both of you also endorsed. I posted it as an example of UB's 4-cola topping method. (notice it was a compliment). I know all about high-P foods and shit. This was a run to see what all the hoopla was about. If I did so bad, explain what I did wrong ok? I'm very interested. So I guess I fucked up by using the nutes you guys advocate. I had no complaints other than the stretch but it does show the cool UB 4 cola thing quite well. Maybe I should stop complimenting so much.
Here is another shot with sis......... what's wrong with it ?
I've always read that a plant won't flower until its ready? How can you flower too soon?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoperiodism Switching to 12/12 is done to push it to flower sooner.
Mature plants generally produce higher quantity and higher potency bud.
From the books I've read, switching to 12/12 signals the plant to flower if it is mature enough to do so. And ok I guess I see what you could mean by too soon. Mel Frank wrote that peak potency is usually around 8-10 months..... makes me really want to figure this cloning thing out
NM . . .no point . . pied piper
Mature enough to do so, not as in mature enough to produce optimal results.
Cloning is a matter of just doing. Not much to figure out. But yeah, that helps a lot. Not uncommon for clones from mature plants to flower much faster, can easily cut off a week from a cycle depending on the strain. I like the variety of seeds too much though, but do have a clone from a mother that was 5-6 months old already and had preflowers (on 18/6) long before that so took only 6 days to get her to flower.
Yep, totally different ball game. Notice the airy bud and very short stalks? Almost can't see the trichomes with the naked eye either. But that's mostly what sativas do. Another misguided myth that seedbanks use to sell their mutts is to equate the trichome field with potency. I have smoked bud in which there was very little visible trichomes to the naked eye and the quality of high and the potency trampled your typical seller's big cola with lots of shugar.
It's what's inside that counts.
I just haven't had any success. Will try again.
Just that there are pores the plants use for transpiration. I knew nothing about botany half a year ago. I'm a novice and do not pretend otherwise. Trying to learn all I can though. Please continue
Thanks. It actually "looks" better than the other one in Sensi but I saw no yield change between the 2 but taste/customer satisfaction leaned to the AN side so that is what I grow with, economically too.
Said he used Grow and yes, the fact that the nodes are opposed is very weird. Suggests that it wasn't really ready to flower but then again the foliage is sparse too. Got be the genetics unless he didn't get his other factors down pat - temps, water, veg times. Plant has nice dark healthy leaves.
Same family of clones?Chuck that was Dyna-Gro GROW with pro-tekt, No cal/mag the first 2 weeks because the coco was not new. It was from seed and vegged maybe 40 days (from seed planting)
Here is a plant 100% Coco with Sensi Base 12 ml gal, cal-mag first 2 weeks 3ml/gal, 1/4 ml pro-tekt.
Note some cupping. I decreased the Sensi to 10ml/gal to compensate. Plenty of green and good yields too.
I'm not against Dyna at all, I use it for veg all the time. Here is Sensi, here's your green !!
