Recent content by HydroLynx

Yeah 200W is a lot for a 2 x 4 ft tent, temps hit 32C (90F). I have dimmed down maybe even as far as halfway and it put the temps to a perfect 28C (82F) for veg

Is that 1.81 W/m2 the total wattage of the UV light or the wattage of the UV spectrum of the light?

At the end of the day I can only afford to run the light at 60%, which pulls around 288W, and gives 860 umol/m2 at ~1ft down. Economics is the game, but I just was wondering if I'd loose bag appeal from not running brighter.

Well the brighter LED light has more blue light which is still a very energetic light by itself yes. I once read a paper on photomorphogenesis that suggested that blue light is nasty stuff, only a few nm longer than UVA, so it can destroy some biological molecules like UV. Maybe the plant...

So I commited a cardinal sin of horticultural lighting: I incorporated 100W tugsten filament lightbulbs into my led fixture. The lighting efficiency enthusiasts reading this must think this idea is total bonkers. I will argue why this is a good idea for my situation. It's winter here and I...

Thanx for the input guys I looked at Dr Coco for Cannabis and they said 700 umol is perfect, anything above that causes stress. But im still wondering if that stress is the good kind which makes bud frostier

I have always thought that brighter light mean frostier buds, how true is this? Surely the plant will react to the intenser light by producing more and larger trichomes, right? I have my light running at 800 u mols/m2, I'm wondering if dialing her up to 1200 u mols/m2 will improve the...

Here's the best one I had on disk. This study found that there was a Goldilocks zone for DO: too little = problems, and too much DO also = problems such as brown roots. Check it out...

I spent 2 hours looking on Google scholar, can't find. But it is well established that over agitation of water around roots creates issues. I think it's because the roots get access to too many nutes and suck up up DO faster than it can be replace, am not 100% sure tho.

Claw leaf: Too much nitrate, reduce dosage by 50%. Leaf cupping: Watch temps and RH

I've always put that down to maturity, revegging, or some kind of confusion. But it's nothing to be too worried about

-Use a more efficient led: for instance, samsung diodes @4000K+ run ice cold at full power. Plants love heat, im battling to keep temps UP and I live in a Mediterranean climate. -If airtemps are hot, keep leaf temps down by not using IR diodes or HID lamps. Leaf temps need to be in their lower...

DO solubility vs water temps is misleading. Plant roots will simply metablolise and burn oxygen MUCH faster at 25C than at 16C. That's one of the biggest reasons why you need to chill roots in all water-culture imo. After all there is only a 1.7ppm DO dip between 25C and 16C, that's really not...

No it is FR4 fibreglass, like less than 1mm thin. I used "contact glue" to stick em to aluminum tread plate, and some fell off and bent in the middle under their own weight. Ya. Digikey also shipped mine so badly in 2017 that some bent along the way too.

Here's my 2c: CODING has become a solid passion up there with hydroponics and cultivation for me. Same level of trial, error, learn, succeed as the growing itself is. Same reward imo. Dont be scared! Grow rooms and automation lend themselves together well, and code it just a set of instructions...