Nitrogen/magnesium/calcium deficiency and what im planning to do

Hey green machine, thanks for weighing in. The City Pickers are actually 20.5x24.5x7.5". They will carry 2 cf of soil if full. But, yeah, I didn't fill them full, and have two different cultivars in each, grown from seed. I wanted variety so I would have choice when it comes time to have a puff. They are all hybrids, mostly indica leaning. But, I think you are right as far as transplanting from solo cups, go two weeks to flip. It's hard for me to have a bunch of clones and whatnot due to a low plant count. Am in Canada, only allowed four. But, would be nice with two clones in each. For future reference for sure.
If you’re using fem seeds you can flip even faster! Try it out once and see what happens,

I average 5-6 harvest a year, even if the plant stays shorter and smaller you’ll get a whole extra harvest or two each year and less investment in electric cause your cutting your 18 period down
 
Not necessarily, I do GLR, in veg its: 12 hours lights on, 5.5 off, 1-hour on, 5.5 off and this would help OP with heat issue
Hey budman, do you use a mechanical timer? Seems like that would be the easiest to setup for this light cycle.(GLR) I have a digital. Not sure if I can program more than one "on" and or "off" times with it.
 
Hey budman, do you use a mechanical timer? Seems like that would be the easiest to setup for this light cycle.(GLR) I have a digital. Not sure if I can program more than one "on" and or "off" times with it.
Yes , a timer is best and all you do is set 12/12 then set 1 hour of light to come on in the middle of the dark 12 hours
 
Hey budman, do you use a mechanical timer? Seems like that would be the easiest to setup for this light cycle.(GLR) I have a digital. Not sure if I can program more than one "on" and or "off" times with it.
Shits derailing! Now from taking to much advice online your gunna start GLr and fuck everything up way more when the basics of your grow don’t work.

The plant is veg to long, root bound in container, then P K stalling out because the soil can not keep up with the large plants demands!!!! It’s simple, don’t go fixing a lightbulb with a pipe wrench!!!
 
Shits derailing! Now from taking to much advice online your gunna start GLr and fuck everything up way more when the basics of your grow don’t work.

The plant is veg to long, root bound in container, then P K stalling out because the soil can not keep up with the large plants demands!!!! It’s simple, don’t go fixing a lightbulb with a pipe wrench!!!
I think OP came to want to use GLR as I said I was using it and I’m sure they did some research.
I don’t see how this light routine can be a bad thing for his setup and goal to help his sick plants. Can you explain?
 
Shits derailing! Now from taking to much advice online your gunna start GLr and fuck everything up way more when the basics of your grow don’t work.

The plant is veg to long, root bound in container, then P K stalling out because the soil can not keep up with the large plants demands!!!! It’s simple, don’t go fixing a lightbulb with a pipe wrench!!!
Right. Seems like a soil issue. 20% compost sounds low to me imo.
 
Shits derailing! Now from taking to much advice online your gunna start GLr and fuck everything up way more when the basics of your grow don’t work.

The plant is veg to long, root bound in container, then P K stalling out because the soil can not keep up with the large plants demands!!!! It’s simple, don’t go fixing a lightbulb with a pipe wrench!!!
Yeah, I get what you are saying Green machine. I haven't switched to GLR yet, and maybe I shouldn't. Screwing with the light schedule that much at this point may create more problems, not sure.

The plants are showing a bit more green in new growth, and lower leaves still look ok. I'm still tossing around chopping it down and starting over (in the fall), or just trying to feed enough to get them across the finish line.
 
I think OP came to want to use GLR as I said I was using it and I’m sure they did some research.
I don’t see how this light routine can be a bad thing for his setup and goal to help his sick plants. Can you explain?
Yeah, I am a bit concerned with what will happen if I switch to GLR now. Still contemplating it, but not 100% I will switch. Would love to try it from the start of a grow, and likely will next go around for sure.
 
So, an update on where my plants are. The lower light levels, and weekly top dress, at first with more medium (coots mix with 20% compost/40% peat/40% aeration w/perlite;pumice;rice hulls), then continuing weekly with 4-4-4 Gaia general purpose, w/ewc, and one addition (1.5 tsp of langbeinite)then watered in with fish emulsion, each week, has put them in much better shape. I did remove some damaged foliage on one of the plants, but left the rest intact. I also did a couple more epsom foliar applications on one of the plants that seemed to show magnesium deficiency. They all looked much better, so I flipped to flower April 15th. Defoliated a bunch on the bottom for better airflow couple of days before. I did increase light to around 700 ppfd. I laid a scrog net the day I defoliated, and was tucking for 4-5 days, but have just let them stretch now. Will likely place a second net for support near the last week of stretch. The growth from stretch all looks healthy, the stems all looking green on the new growth. Apart from the fact I postponed flowering far longer than I wanted due to my issues, I'm pretty happy with how things look. Outside temperatures are set to increase where I'm at, so I will be battling temperature soon, as the room I have my tent to grow isn't insulated the greatest. I've read some of your posts @Delps8 and watched one of those YouTube videos from Mitch Westmoreland you posted up, so want to lower my canopy temps to 78° in another week or so to help preserve terpenes. Hopefully I can control that, and keep vpd in the proper range. Thanks for everyone who helped me along with their observations and advice, much appreciated. :hump: Heres a pic...20250422_182816.jpg
 
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So, an update on where my plants are. The lower light levels, and weekly top dress, at first with more medium (coots mix with 20% compost/40% peat/40% aeration w/perlite;pumice;rice hulls), then continuing weekly with 4-4-4 Gaia general purpose, w/ewc, and one addition (1.5 tsp of langbeinite)then watered in with fish emulsion, each week, has put them in much better shape. I did remove some damaged foliage on one of the plants, but left the rest intact. I also did a couple more epsom foliar applications on one of the plants that seemed to show magnesium deficiency. They all looked much better, so I flipped to flower April 15th. Defoliated a bunch on the bottom for better airflow couple of days before. I did increase light to around 700 ppfd. I laid a scrog net the day I defoliated, and was tucking for 4-5 days, but have just let them stretch now. Will likely place a second net for support near the last week of stretch. The growth from stretch all looks healthy, the stems all looking green on the new growth. Apart from the fact I postponed flowering far longer than I wanted due to my issues, I'm pretty happy with how things look. Outside temperatures are set to increase where I'm at, so I will be battling temperature soon, as the room I have my tent to grow isn't insulated the greatest. I've read some of your posts @Delps8 and watched one of those YouTube videos from Mitch Westmoreland you posted up, so want to lower my canopy temps to 78° in another week or so to help preserve terpenes. Hopefully I can control that, and keep vpd in the proper range. Thanks for everyone who helped me along with their observations and advice, much appreciated. :hump: Heres a pic...View attachment 5462244
Plants are looking really good but why are you giving them only 700µmol?

I do understand abiding by "conventional wisdom" and, as much as I've always been one to "drink upstream from the herd", it wasn't until my second year of growing that I changed to "high light".
 
So, I guess I'm a bit nervous to drive them harder, but yes, more light is the idea. So, I guess 1000 umol is the level they should be at then?
 
So, I guess I'm a bit nervous to drive them harder, but yes, more light is the idea. So, I guess 1000 umol is the level they should be at then?
"I guess I'm a bit nervous to drive them harder" - you're not "driving them" (but that is common perspective) you're feeding them.

Light is how a plant makes food via photosynthesis and, in general terms, the more the merrier.

As long as light is the limiting factor, a cannabis plant will thrive at "800 to 1000"µmol. I put that in quotes because that's been the conventional wisdom for a few years but, even in the past year or so, more researchers are publishing their findings that cannabis will grow at over 1k. I've been running 1000+ for a couple of years now.

Should your grow be at 1k? You will tend to get a larger crop at 1k than at 700 and, it will be a little under 25% larger than it would be at 700µmol. That's based on the table below that I created from cited the paper (attached)

How can you get there? There is no need to increase light levels in small increments because your plants have already reached maturity in terms of their ability to take in light for photosynthesis. Having said that, I wouldn't just go from 700 to 1k overnight but there's no reason to not jump from 700 to 800 or 850 and then another jump.

A light meter will tell you (roughly) how much light is falling on the plant but only the plant will tell you how much light it can use. Fortunately, it's really easy to tell.

Here's how I would do it. Bump the PPFD by 150µmol at the start of the photoperiod and walk away from the tent. Thirty minutes after you increase PPFD, go back to the tent and check the leaves that are closest to the light.

If the light level is too high, cannabis will react by rolling up the sides of the leaf ("tacoing" or "canoeing") or by rotating the leaf around the petiole, in the same way that a Ventian blind opens and closes. If you see that happening or if there's some other unexpected change in the plants attitude, raise the light 1" or drop the dimmer input % by a bit. I would expect that you won't see that reaction.

That's the 30 minute check. If everything's OK, go away for another 30 minutes and check the plants again. Same rules as before—if something looks off, drop back a bit.

That approach is a good guideline for a maturing plant. Given the age of your plants (45± days?) you should be good to go but, if not, it's simply not an issue.

I checked through my grow journals the other day and it's common for me to give my plants too much light right at the three week mark. Below is copy/paste from my most recent grow journal.

DLI is in the rightmost column, PPFD is next to that. I checked for photos of the affected area and I don't have any—it's just such a non-event.

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The screenshot below is from this video where Shane at Migro is the interviewer.


It was interesting to see what Fluence has found with inter canopy lighting but, in terms of light levels, what Hawley observed is that there was an inflection point at 1500µmol but they found that when plants were grown at very high light levels (>1100) , they ran into morphology issues.

Not all cultivars will respond to light in the same way. Apparently there are cultivars that don't do well at 800µmol. There's also the chance that a grow may not be able to support that amount of light which is why the key phrase "assuming that light is the limiting factor". I've seen a few grows (3) where poor water practices lead to hygrophobic soil and just 600µmol was poorly tolerated.

Overall, it's not a big deal, to the plant, to run at 800-1000. The biggest impediment, by far, is growers who have the same hesitancy that you've expressed but, as far as the plant is concerned, it's almost always "Please sir, may I have more?"


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Thank you Delps8! Well I think I should refer to you as Mr. Delps8, heh. What a great explanation complete with charts and a video. I appreciate your effort to impart your knowledge. I'll boost the ppfd up in a couple of steps, and watch the plants. BTW, I read some posts of yours a while back about the accuracy of par meters or lux meters etc. I have the Photobio Phantom Advanced Quantum Par Meter, and I seem to remember you saying it wasn't as accurate as a much cheaper LUX meter, and using some conversion factor. At the moment, I'm just going to continue to use the meter I have, as it somewhat gets me in the ballpark, and is likely consistent with itself, even if it's not really as accurate as it could be for measuring PAR. I won't be buying the Apogee, but maybe will spring for a cheap LUX meter down the road.

Anyway, thank you again, you're a gentleman and a scholar in my books. :peace:
 
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