Organic Bloom Boosters

Tremojem

Tremojem

Member
My question is about P + K Organic Bloom Boosting or whatever they call it.

I was just wondering what your thoughts were about higher levels of P and K during flowering. Using only organic sources.

I have looked into DTE Langbeinite and Potassium Sulphate and Island Phosphate, or Seabird Guano, Fish Bone Meal, Bone Meal.

Any thoughts on this methodology and product selection?

Thank you for your help.
 
You're on the right track.

Lots of Organic Flower and Bloom Fertilizers (including Down To Earth "Rose and Flower" and "Flower Garden") use some combination of the ingredients you mentioned.

And the pre-made, all in one dry Bloom/Flower fertilizers mostly have lower Nitrogen and higher Phosphorus and Potassium than the Veg recipes.

So you're not crazy.

Are you trying to come up with your own DIY top dress mix? Or use a ready made product? Or add some P and K to your existing Veg formula?
 
I am trying to better understand the whole flower boost thingy, is all.

I am just having a conversation about this subject in an effort to better my growing game.

For example, there are two products offered by DTE, for K. My questions are, why, which is better, why would it be better, etc.

Just looking for experience and knowledge sharing.

That's the short term, long term is to improve through education.

Just want to effectively, if possible, boost bud stacking

Langbeinite 0-0-22
Bone Meal 3-15-0
Fish Bone Meal 4-12-0
Potassium Phosphate 0-0-50
Island Phosphate 0-11-0
Seabird Guano 0-11-0
Fish Bone Powder 4-20-0

A couple products here are readily available to the plant and do not require time and microbes to break it down. Why?

I am just looking to better understand what, why, and how these are applicable.
 
Langbienite and Potassium sulfate are crystals that dissolve in water. So they are available right away, without microbes or composting.

Seabird guano is partially soluble, so some of it will be available right away. And it will continue to become available as it breaks down.

The bone and fishbone meals need microbes and time to break down and be used by your plants. Finer texture Should become usable first, so fishbone powder should theoretically work faster than pellets of bone meal.

You can add amendments to earthworm castings, or compost or even soil and let them cook 2-4 weeks Before you top dress. That way they should be ready to go immediately.
 
Heres a complete organic schedule from start to finish using Gaia Green 4-4-4 and 2-6-4.
Plus amendments
I am also sexing in 110oz Solo Cups, if I can get away with it
Adjust water amounts, and amount of medium to your needs.

  • Heres a complete organic schedule from start to finish using Gia Green 4-4-4 and 2-6-4.
    Plus amendments
    I am also sexing in 110oz Solo Cups, if I can get away with it
    Adjust water amounts, and amount of medium to your needs.
    ​

    Every 3rd Watering Seedling Tea Schedule -This was for 16.9 oz Water)-Each seedling get 2oz water. Out of 16.9. In 110oz Solo Cups. Adjust accordingly​

    IngredientAmountNotes
    Liquid worm casting tea~0.98 cc (~20 drops)Based on 0.25 oz per gallon (¼-strength)
    Liquid kelp~5 teaspoons20:1 dilution ratio
    Humic/Fulvic blend¼ teaspoonEnhances nutrient uptake and root stimulation
    Myco Supreme½ teaspoon (dry)Top dress near roots before watering
    3/4-1 tsp Unsulfuered Molasses per 16.9 oz water.
    ✅ Water pH Target: Adjust to 5.8-6.2 for optimal microbial activation Use dechlorinated water (RO or aged tap with humic/fulvic acid)
    ​

    Feeding Progression (Weeks 1–4)​

    1-2 TBLSP Gallon water​

    Always PH after all ingredients are mixed​







    ​


    I
    Weekly Seedling Feed Card (Per Plant – 48 oz Water) Adjust to your water amount​

    IngredientAmountMethodNotes
    Liquid worm casting tea~10 ccSyringe (~0.25 oz)Microbial inoculant, gentle N source
    Liquid kelp20 ccDrops (~4 tsp)20:1 dilution, supports root & hormone growth
    Humic/Fulvic blend¼ tspTeaspoonEnhances uptake, buffers pH
    Myco Supreme½ tspTop dress (dry)Apply near roots before watering

    ​

    Water Stats​

    • EC: 1.075 mS/cm
    • PPM: 526 (500 scale)
    • pH: 6.01
    These are ideal for microbial activation and seedling safety. You're in the sweet spot for root zone health and nutrient availability.​

    • .

    ​

    Pro Tips for a Smooth Transition​



      • Observe before you up‑shift – If growth slows, leaves pale, or tips burn, pause increases.
      • Keep roots breathing – Allow surface to dry lightly between waterings to prevent damping‑off.
      • Consistency beats quantity – Smaller, steady feeds are safer than big nutrient jumps.
      • Microbe‑friendly water – If possible, dechlorinate water to keep your casting tea’s biology thriving
    ​

    Conversion Details​

    • 1 fluid ounce (oz) = 6 teaspoons
    • So, ¼ oz = 6 ÷ 4 = 1.5 teaspoons
    ​

    ✅ Final Answer​

    ¼ oz of worm casting tea is equal to 1.5 teaspoons.
    If you're mixing it into a gallon of water
    Thanks for clarifying — slightly firming the medium is actually ideal. It gives your seedlings a stable root zone without compacting the soil too much, which keeps oxygen flowing and microbes happy.
    So yes, sticking with 0.40 gallons of actual soil volume per Solo cup is still accurate, even with that gentle packing. It accounts for:
    • The expansion of ProMix BX
    • The air space left at the top
    • Your light tamping method
    That means your Week 2 top dress blend is still spot-on:
    • Gaia Green 4-4-4 – 1½ tbsp
    • Kelp meal – ¾ tbsp
    • Gypsum – ¾ tbsp
    • Oyster shell flour – ¾ tbsp
    • Epsom salts – ½ tsp



    Here’s your Week 2 Feeding Card tailored for your 110 oz Solo cups with ~0.40 gallons of ProMix BX:
    ​

    Week 2 Feeding Card (Days 14–20)​

    Top Dress Blend (per 0.40-.45 gal medium)​

    • Gaia Green 4-4-4 – 1½ tbsp
    • Kelp meal – ¾ tbsp
    • Gypsum – ¾ tbsp
    • Oyster shell flour – ¾ tbsp
    • Epsom salts – ½ tsp
    Instructions: Lightly scratch into top inch of soil. Apply on Day 14, then water in with compost tea.
    ​

    Compost Tea Watering​

    • Worm casting tea: ½ oz per gallon (equals 3 tsp)
    • Liquid kelp: 20:1 dilution
    • Volume per plant: 6–8 oz
    Watering Schedule:
    • Day 14: Top dress + compost tea
    • Day 17: Plain water
    • Day 20: Plain water
    ​

    Tips​

    • Observe leaf posture and color after feeding
    • Allow surface to dry lightly between waterings
    • Use dechlorinated water to protect microbes
    ​

    Adjusted Top Dress Strategy​

    Option A: Partial Top Dress Now, Add Oyster Shell Later
    • Day 9 (Aug 18): Apply everything except oyster shell flour
    • Day 10–11: Plain water
    • Day 12 (Aug 21): Add oyster shell flour (¾ tbsp) and lightly scratch in This keeps your microbes fed and avoids delaying the whole top dress. Oyster shell is slow-release, so adding it a few days later won’t disrupt anything.
    Option B: Delay Full Top Dress Until Tuesday
    • Day 9–11: Plain water
    • Day 12 (Aug 21): Full top dress + compost tea This keeps everything bundled, but slightly delays your feeding rhythm. Still safe, just a bit less ideal for early nutrient ramp-up.





    • Soil cooking for veg and flower
    • Microbe feeding
    • Weekly feeding schedule
    • How and when to use each amendment
    ​

    VEG STAGE: Full Guide​

    Soil Cooking (2–3 Weeks Before Planting optional)​

    Goal: Activate microbes, break down amendments, stabilize nutrients​

    Base Mix (per 5 gallons soil)​

    • Gaia Green 4-4-4 – 2 tbsp
    • Kelp meal – 1 tbsp
    • Azomite – 1 tbsp
    • Gypsum – 1 tbsp
    • Oyster shell flour – 1 tbsp
    • Epsom salts – 1 tsp
    • Mycos Supreme – 1 tsp (at transplant)
    • Biochar (optional) – 1 tbsp
    ​

    Microbe Activation Tea (weekly)​

    • 2–4 oz liquid worm castings
    • ½ tsp coconut water powder
    • ½ tsp liquid kelp
    • ¼ tsp humic acid
    • ¼ tsp fulvic acid
    • ¼ tsp unsulfured blackstrap molasses
    • Brew 12–24 hrs with aeration, apply as soil drench
    Let soil sit moist and warm, turning weekly. Ready in 2–3 weeks.
    ​

    ​

 

VEG Feeding Schedule ​

WeekDay 1Day 4Day 7
Week 1Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 2Top Dress (Gaia 4-4-4 + Azomite + Epsom + Gypsum) + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 3Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 4Top Dress + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
​

​

Foliar Spray (Optional)​

  • ¼ tsp liquid kelp + ¼ tsp fulvic acid per quart
  • Apply early morning, once per week
​

​

FLOWERING STAGE: Full Guide​

Soil Cooking (2–3 Weeks Before Flower Flip or Recharge)​

Goal: Shift toward P & K, reduce N​

Base Mix (per 5 gallons soil)​

  • Gaia Green 2-8-4 – 2 tbsp
  • Kelp meal – 1 tbsp
  • Azomite – 1 tbsp
  • Gypsum – 1 tbsp
  • Oyster shell flour – 1 tbsp
  • Epsom salts – 1 tsp
  • Mycos Supreme – 1 tsp (at transplant)
​

​

Microbe Activation Tea (weekly)​

Same as veg, but reduce liquid kelp to ¼ tsp if using kelp meal​

​

Flower Feeding Schedule​

WeekDay 1Day 4Day 7
Week 1Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 2Top Dress (Gaia 2-8-4 + Azomite + Epsom + Gypsum) + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 3Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 4Top Dress + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
​

​

Optional Bloom Boosters​

  • Add banana fuel or BuildABloom in late flower
  • Use fulvic acid foliar spray to enhance mineral uptake
​

​

Microbe Feeding Tips​

  • Always use dechlorinated water
  • Keep soil moist but not soggy
  • Rotate teas and top dress to avoid microbial fatigue
  • Use molasses sparingly (¼ tsp per gallon) to feed microbes
  • Add Mycos Supreme at transplant and again mid-cycle
​

​

 
If you are looking for some decent nutrients that are organic, try Cold War Organics. They are water soluble and there are 3 of them, Bud Bread, Coming of Age and Angels Envy. Bud Bread is used through out the grow, Coming of Age,when flowering along with Bud Bread and then Angels Envy for the last few weeks of flower. Great feed chart and directions. Clean Green Certified and meets organic specifications.

I am using them on my current outdoor grow and my plants seem to love it. No nute burn, no signs of deficiencies, and easy to use. My girls are in flower now going on 4th week. Showing lots of frost, smaller buds as these are autos, which I won't do again outdoors, not enough light and buds seem to stay airier, well at least on the 3, I already harvested, but they also stunted on me and got no larger than 18 height and 12 wide ( ended up with 2.75 dry from 3 small plants.

Current grow are autos as well but around 24 inches tall and loaded, I'm guessing at least 4 to 5 oz combined. Just a fun project until I can start my inside grow for winter where I will hopefully get back to my 8.5 oz per plant average.or better it. Going to try a coco run first time. Genetics are everything with autos and the ones I grew outdoors this summer, were lets just say lesser genetics, what I call fun seeds.

Good luck in whatever you choose, organics are tougher to deal with some, especially if doing top dressing, takes a while to work. I like the Cold War Products for simplicity, feed chart and so far so good. Good luck in your decision. 8)
 
Unless they've been spiked with hormones, "bloom boosters" do NOTHING for your plants. The only thing that gets fat is the nute company's bank account! Save your money!
 
Soil Growth said:
Langbienite and Potassium sulfate are crystals that dissolve in water. So they are available right away, without microbes or composting.

Seabird guano is partially soluble, so some of it will be available right away. And it will continue to become available as it breaks down.

The bone and fishbone meals need microbes and time to break down and be used by your plants. Finer texture Should become usable first, so fishbone powder should theoretically work faster than pellets of bone meal.

You can add amendments to earthworm castings, or compost or even soil and let them cook 2-4 weeks Before you top dress. That way they should be ready to go immediately.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your great input. I was not aware that mixing organic amendments with worm castings and allowing to sit and break down those amendments was possible. My questions are about moisture and continued mixing or other things like protecting from light sources etc. I guess, in general, would you please elaborate on the preferred method and some peticulars? Thanks again.

I do top dress by mixing all amendments with worm castings and working into soil, and watering in with EM-1.
 
pop22 said:
Unless they've been spiked with hormones, "bloom boosters" do NOTHING for your plants. The only thing that gets fat is the nute company's bank account! Save your money!
Click to expand...
My apologies as I need you to educate me on your statement regarding hormones...please.

I just dont have that much experience with this.
 
jimihendrix1 said:

VEG Feeding Schedule ​

WeekDay 1Day 4Day 7
Week 1Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 2Top Dress (Gaia 4-4-4 + Azomite + Epsom + Gypsum) + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 3Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 4Top Dress + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
​

​

​

Foliar Spray (Optional)​

  • ¼ tsp liquid kelp + ¼ tsp fulvic acid per quart
  • Apply early morning, once per week
​

​

​

FLOWERING STAGE: Full Guide​

Soil Cooking (2–3 Weeks Before Flower Flip or Recharge)​

Goal: Shift toward P & K, reduce N​

Base Mix (per 5 gallons soil)​

  • Gaia Green 2-8-4 – 2 tbsp
  • Kelp meal – 1 tbsp
  • Azomite – 1 tbsp
  • Gypsum – 1 tbsp
  • Oyster shell flour – 1 tbsp
  • Epsom salts – 1 tsp
  • Mycos Supreme – 1 tsp (at transplant)
​

​

​

Microbe Activation Tea (weekly)​

Same as veg, but reduce liquid kelp to ¼ tsp if using kelp meal​

​

Flower Feeding Schedule​

WeekDay 1Day 4Day 7
Week 1Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 2Top Dress (Gaia 2-8-4 + Azomite + Epsom + Gypsum) + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 3Compost TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
Week 4Top Dress + TeaPlain WaterPlain Water
​

​

​

Optional Bloom Boosters​

  • Add banana fuel or BuildABloom in late flower
  • Use fulvic acid foliar spray to enhance mineral uptake
​

​

​

Microbe Feeding Tips​

  • Always use dechlorinated water
  • Keep soil moist but not soggy
  • Rotate teas and top dress to avoid microbial fatigue
  • Use molasses sparingly (¼ tsp per gallon) to feed microbes
  • Add Mycos Supreme at transplant and again mid-cycle
​

​

​

Click to expand...
Thank you for this complete guide. I actually use all of the same amendments and kinda follow the kinda same schedule kinda sort of lol.
 
pop22 said:
Unless they've been spiked with hormones, "bloom boosters" do NOTHING for your plants. The only thing that gets fat is the nute company's bank account! Save your money!
Click to expand...
Hey, thanks for the heads up. I did some research and I agree. Would you please elaborate with suggestions for these hormones, and how to purchase them.

If you have the knowledge but dont use them, and can't offer up further information, I understand. Thanks anyway.
 
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