Theres these heat blankets you can try to put under or maybe around the pots.Man, feel like theres no reliable way to raise temps without some kind of fire hazard. Basement too large to warm up as needed without the home heat. I found drop clothing can isolate and create decent lung rooms.
But it would be a concrete wall with wooden/drywall structure right infront of the concrete wall. Like Just under 3”. Space heaters need 3’ clearance all around and shouldnt be unattended. I think oil radiators are the same.
What if I put some ceramic infares bulbs in the tents facing the canopy and the pots for the rootzone? Suggestions? I could benefit from the 80f like enviorment. I put clones in flower room to veg a couple wks longer. It didnt want more light but it did grow faster.
They shouldnt need 8+ wks veg Im at 10-12wks. Lately been noticing at harvest the main stock just folds and snaps in half instead of needing freakin hedge clippers. I dont want to effect them genetically shoot should find out about that. Its like 60-70F.
Yes thats the easiest thing to test first.Awesome thanks, I tried that with a cfl and didnt realize the difference. I think Il try that with the extract thru bottom vent tech. Then the grow tent heater if needed but the ceramic IR I read it can scortch tent fabric and plants and to use probes everywhere on controllers. Just seems like a last resort.
As for spectrum, I was just pointing the cfl away from the plants with those clip on lamps or clamp lamp. So it was just shining in a corner for heat but didnt do much. I wonder if one or two is enough maybe three. Its a 5x3 thats 6 foot tall.
I'm sure there is hard science behind it but i've noticed outside in the heat with high uv days my flower finishes tricome wise way faster, i've tested some with moving to 25% white shade vs 50% black shade to see if i can slow down the tricomes and add bulk to the flower, some plants respond as less stress and go back to bulking and less so finishing. I believe when you stress a plant but keep it healthy enough you can get bigger results but you would have to test different things on the same genetics to prove it.So I wonder if those who get good results outdoor and not indoor led.. Maybe those phenos have higher light saturation points that the plants need to produce more hash. That if they did invest in lights youre average hobby grower dont use.. Or create them selves..
To provide that rediculous light satuation levels without any ambient added co2.. Idk lol, another connection? Ive been reading on how some phenos will just dump if you do. Hell they can even trigger a epigenetic change or mutation that actually makes them produce more hash.
Idk just food for thought. Maybe its not so much spectrum as it is light saturation points and strains benifiting from that outside. Idk maybe its just too hard to replicate, its a light source 90 million miles away and the way it enters our atmosphere etc..
i mean you could jump into a raspberry pi system or similar, for instance a pi runs off 5vdc you can have them control relays for higher voltage/amps. its not as hard as everyone thinks you just have to learn some things. more or less you would plumb all the sensors into the pi or allow it to get readings, you will have to write the python which chatgpt is good at once you understand what you want to do. there is a bit of a learning curve but you will make the system what you need, not what shops sell thats generic to their form of growing imoI been playing with vpd chart site again and seeing I need to manually control everything or computerized. How tho lol Im bad with tech I curse at technology everyday. How can it control 6 separate tents? Do you need like compatable brands like aci fans and vivosun control panel?
I have a feeling I just cant. I need something to control ac, but it requires dimming lights and turning some up that are too cool in the tent.
I been playing with that vpd thing and seeing indeed Ive always been good. When it was off tho it explains the harsh look in leafs. Im using it to avoid gutation especially in buds and see that I have to always manually play with ac and lights. I would want rh as low as possible but not too dry.
Dehueys can be controlled but they arent on the dot. I set hygrometers on it and see how off it is while sometimes its accurate. When its not thats when it can be too humid or dry or hot or cold in tents. Just need to keep playing with that tool to check thru out each day and see what to dial in.
The advice ai gave me helped and when I play with the vpd tool its matches. Meaning its suggesting I stay just above the low end of the recommended range before its under transpiring. So when its cool at night the stomata closed, temps drop to 70F to slow down motabolism. To reduce accumilatimg root pressure.
So when lights on its not so tough on the plant. Just work to 78F slowly and 50 rh is fine. Shouldnt gutate and it hasnt since a few days ago doing this.