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top that n get the light closer to it! uncle ben it for 4 heads, if you want all 4 heads to grow in properly either get the light closer or rotate the plants as often as necessary to keep all the heads at an even level, 1 head could fall behind very easily n get stuck as a branch

floralicious plus has bacillus subtillus and 70+ other nutrients

without wind, plants will grow quicker but with weaker support as they feel they dont need the extra muscle in the branches to withstand the wind....your buds will need to be staked later on if you dont have any wind training! edit: wind also keeps internode spacing nice n tight and branches...

If you read that thread 4-5 years ago....what did I read a few months ago when I began that gave me this...each 1 teach 1 only works if the student listens.

my Grandma has 2 spider plants, this made my day LMFAO

I'm not the OP I'm helping him too lol...by what I said I mean it starts at the tips and covers the surface area of the leaves moving INWARD from the tip. usually burns on the inside of the leaves seperate from the tip is another problem. Nutrients pack into the leaves from the stem, which...

maybe I'm just lucky...im so confident with this method i buy pick n mix singles of each strain I want to try, and I get to try them all! (shitty pheno or not lol)

My ultimate recommendation is to: 1. flush 1 more time with some clearex or peroxide. 2. THEN...let them drain out, tons of runoff (let them sit for a minute or 2). 3. THEN water with nutes right over and MARK THAT DAY DOWN. DO NOT...DO NOT add nutes to ur soil again until 1-2 weeks from...

the 1 in the rocks looks completely drained of all nutrients. the ones in the soil look like they were burned...THEN completely drained of all nutrients, hence the yellow Calytdons (round first seedling leaves)

"like a finished plant a few days after the FINAL FLUSH" now that you've said how much you're watering them I understand. YOU'RE FLUSHING THE NUTES OUT!!! lol

are you sure? I've never seen nute burn at the sides of the leaf blades like that, usually it starts at the tip and takes over doesn't it?

some strains are more sensitive to...everything than others lol I used to put my vegged plants in my 1000w flower room for the 12 hours it was on, the difference in the lights insensity might be too sudden for a few of ur strains. keep those ones under the MH for the full duration (of veg) (i...

they look beautiful...like a finished plant a few days after the final flush. they're autumning off as a seedlings lol...nute lockout or overload, 1 of the 2. (which could be caused by a few things, PH being 1 of them)

2 questions arise when I look at these pics. 1. what nutes are you using (some minor tip scorching) 2. how strong is your light and how close is it? the other marks look like wind/light burn

when seedlings have micronutes from the beginning they don't show any yellowing, regardless of age, they have enough NPK in the calytdons do hold them for the first couple nodes, then you add your Grow Big/n-PPP-k starter nutes(kicks the roots off) I use the entire fox farm lineup in my soil...

i've never had a seed....not open.

My 100% germination method. 1. get a zip-lock sandwich bag. 2. cut a piece of paper towel to like 3x6", fold it and put the seed on 1 half. 3. spray the papertowel + seed with warm water out of a mister bottle (the air will cool it just enough before it reaches the papertowel (spraying cold...

those aren't Nitrogen deficient, looks like Sulfur or MG to me. in N deficient seedlings....first little fake leaves(calydons or w/e) will turn yellow and move upward to the first 2 real fan leaves...UPWARD until they reach the top of the plant. S deficient plants show yellow NEW GROWTH...

yes between 6.0-6.9 = bombbbb for soil :D, ur good!

nearly dead, DONT feed clones/seedlings anything except maybe a little root hormone. The leaves are a direct reflection of whats going on in the soil...if your leaves are looking burnt your roots are FUCKED.....or on their way there. start seedlings on a 10-53-10 nute schedule or...