COBs are easier for DIY.
No need to reflow solder, and when you're only buying in small numbers COBs are pretty cheap. Single LEDs tend to be relatively expensive unless you're buying very large numbers.
MPCBs can also be a bitch to get.
But recently Horticulturelightinggroup has been selling...
Galaxyhydro's aren't very efficient.
Honestly, you'd better return them and save the money for Timbergrowlights.
Also I hope you're not in a too hot climate with those Galaxyhydro's because those panels don't take heat too well. (burnt out diodes)
What brand led?
Fluence is top tier and a great buy.
Mars hydro/ platinum is less efficient than de hps.
Leds have a smaller beam angle than HPS so wasted light should be leas of an issue.
If the LEDs have reflectors/lenses even less light is wasted.
Reflectors/lenses to direct the light are...
http://www.solidstatelighting.net/noribachi-introduces-full-spectrum-grow-lights-developed-at-its-growlab/
"includes four squares lights attached to each other for a total of 1,448.3 μmol/s PPF"
"consumes just 832 Watts"
That's about 1.75 umol/s.
I don't know how they're claiming it can...
He's comparing it with a SE though.
Two of those "VERO29 Triple COB Array Kit" with the 2.1A drivers should be about 1200 PPF.
That should match an old 1000W SE.
But it seems like there are already new SE HPS bulbs that can put out 2100 umol/s...
Also you don't need to spread the paste, pressure will spread it enough.
Spread, line, dot. Doesn't matter.
x-shape had the best coverage with least air bubbles, but it didn't matter for temps.
The results are pretty much within margin of error...
In a growbox with nice reflective walls, it doesn't matter too much if you hang the light 12 inches or 18 inches away.
Closer is still more intense, but it isn't the end of the world if you hang it a bit higher..
And the marijuana grows taller anyway, so it's going to get closer to the light...
As Stephen has said.
A 1000W SE HPS delivers 1285 PPF, The 550 does 1265
https://chilledgrowlights.com/independent-lab-reports/eye-hortilux-super-hps-enhanced-1000w-se-goniometer-lab-report
550 is 4 QB, so 5QB would be more powerful.
Samsung has one
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/products/led-engine/downlight-engine/acom
They're not very efficient, and don't safe any money.
The Citizen ones are even less efficient.
It's not worth it for growlights anyway, because you're cutting corners in areas where it's not...
If you heat up a piece of iron to 1477 degrees celcius, it would be 1750K with 100CRI.
Anyway, the 1750K vero decor is 80 cri.
See Figure 21
Almost no blue for the 17E (1750K), least green of them all, more red/far red than any other...
900W will always be 900W and heat a room as much as any other 900W light in a closed room.
So 1800 cob watt will put more heat than 1500W HID.
But more yield.
If you dim the double fixture to for example 1000W, you will still have the same yield as 1500W HID but less heat.
low wattage HPS is rather inefficient.
A 150W hps is probably somewhere around 0.95 umol/j (light that hits the canopy, including reflector losses)
The LED should be a little over 2 umol/j, so I guess it should beat a 100W HPS rather easily but come up a little short against a 150W HPS.
Maybe...
Lumen/w values are closer than you think.
A 2700K 1212 at 35/36W is "only" 146 lm/w , then there are still driver losses.
So it's closer to 130 lm/w. But should be around 140 lm/w around 25W. (system efficiency)
For me it's most important knowing how much light is gained by removing the...
Could you test a Philips bulb once? Or is it too much a pain in the ass to set up things for just a cheap bulb?
Those Philips 2700K 100W equiv ones you can get from homedepot are supposed to deliver 103 lm/w.
I think that should be about 36-38% efficient.(PPF should be around 22)
But I'm really...
Light stress causing leaves to yellow, it's a bit similar to a nitrogen deficiency but it's not as easy to pluck the leaves.
The flowers also turn a really nice looking white colour (Which is why we call it bleaching).
It's not something you want.
Because CFLs are omnidirectional in nature and emit their light pretty much equally in every direction.
A LED bulb even with the diffuser plastic is quasi-omnidirectional at most and will still put much more light directly downwards than sidewards.
The LED bulbs are simply much more intense as...
In theory, but light intensity is the biggest factor.
Also if you have a fan blowing on your plants you will get stockier tighter plants, at least with peppers and tomatoes. (No need for a cyclone, just a gentle breeze)