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On it, I just ordered a 10L sprayer and some BT concentrate. I usually only spray the kale for cabbage worms, but I'm gonna play it safe and spray these big girls down.

I will give some props for the very uniform deliver :clap:

I see the rust on some of the bolts. I would check continuity on any switches and fuses first before ruling out the driver. They could be full of corrosion.

Pull out the Pink and Purple wires, insulate them and try the unit.

Good point, if you open that box and take the dimmer wires off that could be one of the issues. A short would cause the light to stay off, leave the wires open would run the light at 100%.

This should be a very easy fix. Looks like you have a common driver you can buy from Mouser or DigiKey. The earth, neutral and hot will need to be desoldered from that custom connector after the shrink is cut off. Also you will need to open the connection box to see how the DC and dimmer...

Each case would be different, there won't be an ABC guide to it. The old driver would need to be inspected as would the connections. Most likely it would involve matching wire to wire connections, pcb headers and maybe a little desolder/soldering. There are quite a few guys on here that have...

I plan on purchasing a controlled monotub and a few syringes. I'll probably DIY a larger setup later if things don't get FUBARed. So after some research it looked like the cleanest and easiest things to manage are... Light Karo Syrup Coco Coir Vermiculite Brown Rice - Rice Flour Gypsum...

I did add a 140mm fan to the top of mine later on.....figured why not. Cooler temps=extended life. I have seen quite a few people build the double boards on a triple slate for the extra cooling and light dispersion.

I don't see any issues switching nutrient mid grow. You are growing in a solution of salt ions, doesn't matter who puts them in a bag or bottle.

I run 3 of the those boards in a 2X4 at 480W. I got 3 boards, the triple slate and a HLG 480h c2800b for around $300. Those boards do get fairly hot so I would advise to also using thermal compound to install them. I had to go back and add the compound when I hit the boards with IR thermometer.

Check agricultural suppliers in your area, they won't have the weed tax on peat blends. I was lucky to find one in my area that I didn't need to register a tax ID. I toss them cash and they drop the pallet on my truck.

I mixed my own for a couple years until a found a place that sells BM6 for $25 a bale. I did a bit research and found a paper by UCBerkeley that recommends 5% pulverized dolomite by weight be added to peat for container gardening. That was about 3 pounds per 4ft bale of peat. With the coco in...

Under the soil could be rot or infection.

When you get one stalk that keels over it's usually a borer grub. Look for a hole somewhere with sawdust and black droppings.

Neptunes Harvest isn't as bad as FiSh Sh!t for a stupid picture, but it's definitely more trendy than cost effective. When I did organics, I bought the 36 and 27 LB. espoma bags. Now I do Jack's start to finish and don't even bother with the epsom anymore.

No lime to buffer?

Ya, sure the driver has a MW sticker on it......but I bet the pcb looks like it was soldered by a seven year old sporting a pair of Bubbles glasses.

You will get both sides. I personally wouldn't bother. The main things that control soil pH are the microbes and lime in it. I have never noticed a pH drift in containers worth worrying about until after 6 months of use.