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That is correct. Each set of DIM leads carries a 0.1mA constant current that flows thru your dimming potentiometer, so six dim leads wired in parallel will have 0.1mA x 6 = 0.6mA. 0.0006 Amps x 16500 Ohms = 9.9 Volts. Put a switch in between the dimming pot and the dimming wires. Open the...

Yes. HLG-480H-C1400 outputs up to 343 Vdc and 12 PLC Photo Boost Strips wired in series need 324 Vdc (12 x 27 volts dc). You have about 19Vdc to play with.... maybe add 5 to 8 sets (2 stars in parallel) of 730nm starboards in series with the strips to use up the last few volts and boost the...

Here's more info on those Atrium Lighting 288 boards: they suggest the 480 watt driver for 4 boards & I guess that is for the builders who don't want to use fans to cool their heat sinks...

Are plastic washers between the screw heads and the 288 boards? If no, then one or more screw heads may have scraped off some paint and is shorting out a panel. you could loosen the screws so they don't touch the board, then see if all panels light up.

Bluefish has six channels. I do not know how many LED drivers can work on one channel of the Bluefish Controller (should do more than 1). I do not own this device. Here is the User's Guide link...Lucky you:clap:, the factory Initial Hardware Setup is 10 volt mode, so you don't need to open the...

Those drivers require the dim signal to be 0 to 10 Volts or 10v PWM. The wifi controlled Bluefish LED Controller dim signal is both 0 to 10volt and 10 PWM so your drivers should be controllable. It also can connect to a web cam for remote look-sees. https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-led-controller/

Digikey listing of EB gen 2 strips say the 560mm has twice the current draw of the 280mm strips, both at the same voltage. So, that means 280mm strips have half the LED chips of the 560mm strips. Looks like 66 chips is right. I didn't count the chips...

HiPot sticker means the wiring insulation has been tested at a "high potential" or high voltage.

Happy Fryday! Parallel the four 288 boards on the 48VDC output. Each board will run at near 100 Watts each. Do you have 220-240 VAC available in your shop to power that beast. That's what you need.

I was worried the clear coat on the LEDs would turn cloudy brown like a 10 year old car head lamp. I'm thinking the phosphors wont fade because I believe it is a mix different sized quantum dots and their diameters shouldn't be changed by the UV. I could be wrong. Do you have room to install a...

I wonder if the LEDs need to be shielded from the tube's UV light. Will the phosphor be degraded by the UV? Could you start a science project for us and make some macro pictures of the LEDs nearest the tubes now and compare them a year later?

Rapid says they give 10% off for 1st time customers.

You can lower the tent temperature by moving the LED driver outside the tent. Mount your LED driver & dimmer pot on an aluminum cookie sheet heat sink and hung it outside. Keep everything kewl.

@DubJ Kilowatt meter reads AC line current, voltage, and watts at the wall electrical socket. 343 Watts AC = 2.8 Amps AC x 122.5 Volts AC. (Watts = Current x Voltage)

The hot spot appears to be at the - terminal. Did the - wire insulation melt too? Resistance must have gone up due to who-knows-what. Maybe corrosion from the environment or getting knocked loose during a move? @Airwalker16 Did only one terminal melt like this one? Link to your 3070...

Hold your horses! Your selected led driver outputs 24 DC volts and will not power up a single QB304. The QB304 needs about 110 DC volts. Look at the QB304 board guide to find the right driver for number of QB304 in use. https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/board-guide

I believe @Greengenes707 is describing the action of a constant current driver. I think a constant voltage driver (not operating in constant current mode) output voltage would not spike when switching between flower room LED loads.

You're going to be a "baking pan-strip build man" sooner or later. Me too.

Your strips will have hot spots due to drill holes. Single row led strips is highly recommended. We don't need another "burned out LED thread" here :rolleyes:.

Nice job. I bet it gets pretty warm in there when the cabinet door is closed. Would it be possible to add a vent hole on the floor of the cabinet and another at the top with exhaust fan?