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Just found your comment. Apologies for the tardy reply. Very nice looking setup! I can see you spent some think time on this. Much respect. How did things turn out?

Yield is maximized by getting as much light on the plant as soon as possible. It's conventional wisdom to run "300 in seedling, 300-600 in veg, and 600+ in flower", but that will not allow a cannabis plant to reach its genetic potential. I categorize those light levels as "legacy light levels"...

In a SCROG the plants grow up into the net and are then woven across the net as the branches grow. In the photos you've posted, it looks like the plants are being supported by the trellis. The bottom line, though, is that you've got a great looking grow but your plants didn't get much light and...

Got it. The PPFD meter is converting lux to PPFD for you. 800-1k is textbook "light saturation point" for cannabis. You must be running that light at/close to 100% but the light doesn't have a great PPFD map. It's got a lot of light in the center but the light levels fall of pretty quickly as...

How are you converting from lux to µmol?

Thank you. Those were Original Glue that I bought from Nirvana in 2021. Donna, the taller plant, generated a good yield even though I snapped off two of her branches. That was painful. That grow was my last "two plants in the tent" run. I've tried that approach over the years and always...

I agree. I had no idea this was your first DWC. Everything's looking great and that's no mean feat. You're running CO2 and fighting off high temps. The expression "Juggling chainsaws" comes to mind! Might have to drop the plant count. How many did you end up with in there? Going into...

38? My apologies. That was a typo. It should be 28. I was using a -2°C leaf temperature offset and it came up a bit high. "I don't want to slow them down now!" I just had a peak at your current grow. I don't think that's going to happen. Those plants look great!

Temperature plays a major role in allowing botrytis to infect a plant. If your RH is 70% but temps are 80°, the chances of getting bud rot are low. Once cannabis hits flower, a lot of growers drop their RH into the 30's and 40's to avoid bud rot. That will cut down on the chances of bud rot but...

I don't think that your plants are in the "small" category. They look like they're growing well-good bud structure, lots of foliage, etc. What readings are you getting from your Uni-T?

Glad you brought that up. I don't see any intrinsic benefit in the "sunrise" and "sunset" features that grow light companies offer. I put it in the "naturalistic fallacy" category. Where I do see the sunset feature as possibly having some benefit is that by gradually reducing light levels...

Got a good laugh out of that. It's so true. Weed prices are insane here in Southern California. Prices were $350 an ounce entry level (that was for delivery) with prime ounces being $450 and up so I was pretty careful about not wasting any of it. After a harvest or two, it's like a drunken...

38 and 45 is a VPD of ~1.7 A little higher RH would help with the high transpiration levels, which could be reducing photosynthesis, and your higher temps will reduce the chances of bud rot.

Agreed. You add a lot of valid points. One of the difficulties that a new grower faces is not quite understanding what the options are because there are so man choices.

Yield is a function of how much light you give your plants. A lot of growers like to grow different strains. If that's the case, find what you'd like to try and go with more plants in smaller pots. Smaller plants mature faster so you'll get a crop sooner.

I appreciate that. I can be, shall we say, "not shy about offering advice" but I don't mean to offend. Understood. Light levels ("PPFD" which is akin to how fast rain is falling and is measured in micro moles per square meter per second but I use µmol because I'm a Mac snob. :-) ) drop really...

They're all looking great! "imposter" - got a kick out of that.

Just a few days—on final approach. Excellent! Be on the lookout for bud rot since this is when the flowers their most dense. Prime conditions are high RH and/or temps+RH that allow moisture to form on the leaves. If you're >24/75, that helps. Lots of air flow, too. "No rest for the wicked!"...

My first HD was a 20MB HD that cost $650 (1988). My first "computer" was the Cambridge Programmable that I bought in mid-1975. It's the one with the purple display and it needed a 9 volt battery. I was a college student, studying for a BA, so it wasn't very useful to me but it was amazing that...

"Light stress"- the plant that's having issues the plant that's furthest from the light by a relatively long way. The other plants, which are much closer to the light, aren't showing any signs of excess light so there's no particular reason to think that "right front" is getting too much light...