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The problem isn't Chlorine. The amount of Chlorine in drinking water is no where near even a bothersome amount to plants. If you can drink it, so can the plants. Besides, most tap water nowadays uses Chloramine for purification instead of, or along side Chlorine. Chloramine does not evaporate...

The watt assessment I use is what I feel is optimum for my spaces, and that includes taking into consideration heat, coverage and operating cost. I'd skip the CFLs, but that's pretty much it how you said it. Id prefer to have a 4x8' tent (and sacrifice the extra 10sq/f) for optimum lamp...

You'll be perfectly fine.

No. You want to use veg nutrients now though until after it has reveged and has gone back to flower again.

It'll most likely flower for a bit, then re-veg for a while, then start flowering later in the fall. Tip: When preparing plants for outdoors, veg them on a 15/9 light cycle until they go outside. This will for the most part eliminate risk of the plant going into flower then reveg.

It was never really the actual products themselves why I dislike MG. It has always been the owners of the product, and their conduct. It was also part of the reason (although not a driving one) why I switched away from GH products.

Nothing appears wrong. Stop worrying, and be patient. Also, for the love of all things good, don't poke at, pick at, dig around or otherwise touch the plant :)

Why do you switch out of curiosity? I introduce MKP to my nutrient solution (Jack's 5-12-26, Calcium Nitrate and Cal-Mag) starting at week 2.5 of flower, then dial the PPM back of the solution as a whole a bit come the latter couple of weeks of flower.

To be honest, even with you saying the lamp is cool to the touch, I'd be very hesitant to lift it higher. You could easily remove the triangles and tie off to the clasps the triangle grab onto, but I'd be concerned with an HPS too close to the Mylar, which is flammable, and can burn on contact...

...because they don't read the information on the bag, then proceed to pour on four different bottles of "grow", and nine different variants of "bloom booster".

Once male plants have formed structured pollen sacks, it pretty much doesn't really rely on light anymore to dictate what happens. Light irregularities don't matter nearly as much for males when they are nearing the point of dropping pollen. In my early years, I would just snip the branches off...

What is the temperature and humidity of the grow area? What lights are you using, and how close are they to the plants?

Well, that makes things as clear as mud. To me, the amount (tsp) per gal looked different than what I remember, so I went and grabbed a bottle I have left over from when I used to use the stuff. Way different. For example, For late flower phase, I've got listed on my bottle 1 tsp Grow, 2 tsp...

That's why I said 2/3 what they recommend. You can adjust up or down from there, but you can't un-burn over fertilized plants.

No. You need to increase at least the Grow and Micro. If I'm not mistaken, it's closer to 2 tsp per gallon, not per 3 gallon, but don't quote me, read the label, and start using about 2/3 of what's recommended per gallon. Start using Bloom at 2/3 recommended as well. Give this to the plants for...

At least you've asked about it and can rectify that so it's not a problem going forward. I don't recall the precise process to mix up GH Flora, but what I know for certain is you start with your water, then add each bottle in one at a time after the previous one is mixed in. The Bloom is very...

Yeah, don't bother removing it. By the time the plant is done you probably won't even notice the damage at all (which is very slight as-is).

Definitely Nitrogen deficient. What's your PPM? When you said you "premixed before adding water", do you mean the nutrient bottles themselves? Definitely, definitely a big no-no. At concentrated levels, the chemicals precipitate and fall out of suspension in the liquid. That renders the...

Yield will be approximately 453,592,370,000 Nanograms.

If you're looking at spending 100k, I would highly recommend that you hire a quality commercial grow environment advisor to scope the site out directly, and provide documentation along with quotes for various configurations. For that, @Renfro might know someone, or be able to fly out to do the...