Search results

Keep your pH between 5.7-6.3. 6.5 is on the very high end for coco, and could lock out certain nutrients. What is the EC/PPM of the nutrient mix? What water are you using? Tap? What's the pH of that (just your plain water). Does your Canna A+B contain Calcium and Magnesium?

It's too unreliable to guess by the shape of things or how things look. I've heard over the years that if the plant does X, it's a male, but if it looks like Z, it's female. Through my many years of growing, there is no reliable and completely consistent way to tell until it literally shows.

It's too soon to conclusively tell. Note that some strains (only a few that I've ever run into) won't show sex until put into a flowering light cycle (ie. 12/12). I'm not saying that this is the case here, but it is possible.

Perhaps the delay was to teach the new grower some patience, which we all know is a very valuable trait to have when growing ;)

It can be cut at any time. I'd let it go one more week though.

Actually, Nitrogen is antagonistic to Ca and P, not Mg. Potassium (K) is the macro nutrient that is antagonistic to Mg when provided to the plant in excess.

I run both seeds and clones perpetually. I never found it mattered. I prefer trimming very large plants over many small ones no matter if they came from clone or seed.

My first perpetual was a three week cycle from rooted clones and seed. Three batches of plants each three weeks apart. Then I did five weeks, and finally landed on eight week veg, four plants in flower at a time, harvest two every five weeks at which time two new ones go in.

That stuff is coco and peat. You need to maintain a pH range of 5.7-6.2. Due to the fact that it's coco and peat mixed, I'd highly advise that you periodically swing the pH. Start at 6.0. After a couple of waterings, 5.7. Couple more, 6.2. Couple more, back to 6.0. Do not pH all the way up to...

I did a bit of a writeup on that topic not too long ago: https://rollitup.org/t/anatomy-of-a-perpetual-grow-cycle.1007130/

Interesting you say that. My experience is the opposite over my years of growing. I've scaled back from a couple dozen plants flowering at a time to just four per 4x4' flower tent. My wife and I can trim four plants that vegged for eight weeks in a fraction of the time we used to trim a dozen...

You need to know which medium OP is growing in before giving pH advice. If he's in peat or coco or some other inert medium, maintaining a 6.5 pH will become very problematic.

Medium? Nutrients? pH of water/nutrient mix?

The Trump administration has finally introduced a method to 'flatten the curve'... a game called hide-the-data. https://www.theverge.com/2020/7/14/21324688/white-house-covid-19-coronavirus-data-collection-cdc-bypass-trump-hhs

You do not need to veg for 8 weeks before cutting clones. When I'm sexing plants, I take clones from plants between 2-3 weeks old from seed. I also run perpetual grows, where I take clones from plants that are only a few weeks old so that the next batch will have rooted in time to keep the cycle...

I've already explained, very clearly why I have interest in the US, and have as much right as you do to talk about the embarrassing bullshit going on down there. Leave me out of this crap.

Well, you'll likely not see Calcium with any Sulfate, as Ca and Sulfates will precipitate, and the nutrients will fall out of suspension. Same with Ca and Phosphates. This is especially prevalent when the fertilizer is in concentrate form. That's one of the primary reasons most nutrient...

Mine is Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus liquid. Both the Ca and Mg are in Nitrate form if I'm not mistaken.

Well, considering that most of my plants go P def in mid flower if I don't add a bit of extra Phosphorus, I'd say that it's not a fallacy for me. Besides, I don't call it a "bloom booster". That's a marketing term. I call it what it is. Potasssium and Phosphorus.

Without question, it's a male.