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Well, if the power did go out, the lights would go out too so they would stop transpiring. That would give you an hour or more to do something. I would probably grab a spray bottle and start misting the roots.

Here is a parts list: 11 - 3/4 inch strait nipples 1 - 3/4 inch T nipple 11 - 3/4 inch grommets THIS KIND! --> 15 - 20 feet 3/4 inch black poly hose 1 - 3/4 inch barbed ball valve --> 4 - net pots 4 - 5 gallon buckets with lids 20 feet of 1/4 inch air line tubing. 1 - 27 gallon...

Why would anyone defoliate and love it? Do you love small yields? I have seen it done once, the buds stopped filling out, and it was a disaster. This is a drooling idiot,'Beavis and Butthead' level grow 'technique.'

Forbid 4f. Spray once. Mites dead, babies dead, eggs dead. Spray once per crop during vegetative, problem solved for $25. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-1-4-oz-sample-of-Forbid-4F-with-purchase-of-pipette-lightning-shipping-/251218086107?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7dc3c8db Why people...

The white tubing I have is John Guest. Fear of algae is the reason I ultimately went with the black tubing. I will get some insulation tape today and wrap my tubing with it. The 24 hours with two lights and hot room did a number on my roots. Most of the original roots turned yellowish...

I insulated the bottom of the pods. Will put more insulation on the sides and top tomorrow. Have solution chilled at 42 degrees. Lights are now in cool tubes. Room temperature is at 73 degrees now. The pods are at 64 degrees now. Yay. Wish my solenoids would hurry up and get here.

Doing some changes tonight, then pics. 1. Add chiller 2. Change from black tubing to white 3. Insulating the crap out of the pods 4. Put the HID lamps in cool tubes 5. Shorten the distance (tubing) from the pump to the sprayers That's about all I can think of right now. My main goal...

Municipal water at 1 ppm chlorine will kill all pythium. Pathogens cannot mutate to tolerate chlorine. My tap water is essentially RO water. Of course low PPM tap water is not always good. My friend lives in a little town that has a municipal well. His tap water comes out at 40 or 50 ppm...

No doubt the T5 is better suited for horticultural use. But for something cheap that works, high output T8s are a good alternative. My friend mixes the T8s with CFLs and has a pretty impressive veg setup going.

Very nice. How are your root zone temperatures? One more thing I will do today is get some insulation tape. Also, I am using black tubing. I have white, that would cool my solution somewhat also. The pump I am using has adjustable pressure settings. Perhaps I will turn the pressure up...

I noticed a root with a dried spot, like damping off. That tote had a fan blowing directly on the plant. I think the air blew in through the hydroton and dried it out a bit. Either that or it got too warm. I covered the netpots. I have a thermometer hanging in one of the totes so I can keep...

Thats pretty good. THe manufacturers say to change them every few months of continuous use. Mine seem to last 8 months to a year.

Whats your budget and growing situation?

Yes, but T8s will work in a pinch. Not everyone has money.

Indeed T5 are superior, but there are downsides too. They burn out very quickly - under a year life span. The T8s last four years and keep most of their brightness over the whole life span. T8s are very cheap initial cost too compared to T5. $10 - $14 per four foot T5 vs $3 -$5 for T8...

What if you put in some drip stakes and just did a slow timed drip until the roots dropped? Wouldn't that essentially be the same thing? I love automation.

I am using tap water. It is coming out at 25 ppm right now so it is essentially RO water. In the summer it comes out at 30-35 PPM.

In order to stay legal I have to stay under a number of plants. Right now I can grow 45 plants total. That includes rooted cuttings.

Mixing different brands of ferts can cause nutrient lockout. Fertilizers are formulated specifically in a way that all the nutrients get along. Certain fertilizer salts cannot exist with other fertilizer salts. When they are together in the same solution, they change form and become insoluble...

I normally use H2O2, but will be using bleach for my aero. Hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxydizer and a little too much can burn roots. My drip and ebb and flow setups were in strait up hydroton so they could handle quite a bit of H202. DWC has the water for a buffer. Aero has no buffer...