Search results

those lines are like fishing line, and they are beefy for that. im sure they can hold 100 plus. which means the plastic device would more than likely be the weak point.

"Where in a residential setting would you hook up to 480V? Nice find, but for the mass of us it is pretty irrelevant. " the 1500w MH that he showed was a multi tap on the spec sheet... i have yet to see a core and coil ballast without multi tap inputs.

i agree with tim. and because i am changing to a sealed room setup, lights and all. so im gonna need a nice big pump for my manifold...

i have 3 of the 1" thick 4x8 styrofoam wallboards, they are great. I also have tried using reflectix anywhere i could. works best as a wall reflector and an IR blocker. dont let leo look in on your hott light setup.

again she has a nice ass. makes me want to post a pic of my girl's... sorry. umm hangars of somesort.... i have used em and they work well, just dont try and tighten them with a wrench. they will break. and yes they are finickey.

hmmmmm check THIS out!!! edit: and i dont really care about the price if this ballast does what it says it does and can run 400-600-1000W HPS on 120or240 it is the titts and need +rep COMPLETE versatility! its the HDMI of ballasts... will that 1500watter be the same? if so its on my xmas list!

just picked up this behemoth of a pump on ebay. have yet to hook it up, but its an ecoplus 240!!! for $$$100!!!!!!! he has it listed WRONG on ebay. the pic is similar but THIS is the actual pump i was sent. plus the filter and computer shutoff thang. or this bamf pump for 60!!! these run at...

yep not fuck the world.... for the win! and yes, im sure you dont want to mess with it, but why not. it makes the best use of your existing system... for less than you can purchase another light/ballast/hood setup.... it is my best investment so far. please dont be a typical "stoner" and shy...

light mover! ftw~!

Outside air>window box>8inch ducting(i have the ducting bungeed up at the same height about 8 inches past where the light mover stops....)>light no 1> light no. 2> light no.3 (which are all on the light mover) then up into the attic. never enters my room. just mess with the ducting for a while...

well. i am in a warmer climate. but right now its winter, so i have a 8"input from a window box ducted to 1kw 400w 1kw lights then out to the attic with a roughly 700-1000cfm fan PULLing air into the attic. those fans are loud... my lights all have 6" openings, but the 8" fan does a nice job...

just expanded my room to be about 12x7' with 8 foot ceilings.

wow is all i can say to the difference i have seen so far with my light mover.

just saw the dimmable versions they are putting out.... why use that feature? same wattage dimmed is just less lumens/heat... so unless heat is an issue i say dont mess with dimming.

so as to not clutter SOGs thread. il post my own... when lights come on.

i agree and thats basically what i use, but i get mine from ikea for 10 bux, the mesh isnt as nice and the unit is smaller but it does the job. SOG what are ya using for a res? i just swapped my 96gallon like yours out for a deep freezer... i can now keep the water at a cool 50 degrees when i...

i am using 3 iceboxes with a half hp chiller to cool my iceboxes/room down. i may also vent in a single line straight out into my attic and pull from outside so the lights will have different air than is being circulated in the room.

going to have 3 lights on the mover. then one stationary in the closet area. so somthin like this 1k 400 1k [400] <------------->

keep em pretty tight a few feet or so i have read. i have a light rail 5 on order because you can do 3 lights inline right out of the box.

light mover? to maximize your spread? 3k on a light mover is pretty badass. and since you arent having issues with heat why not go for the 1k.