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There is a 4YO thread over at GCO titled Azomite and Aluminum toxicity that covered the whole thing pretty well. A good amount of links to studies that get kinda technical real quick and even comments from BioAg's Dr. Faust in the links IIRC. I bumped it up so it's on the first page & easy to...

I did in my first reply above. Perhaps you should read a bit closer. It was in the very first paragraph. I now use only azomite and greensand for my mineral needs and no longer bother with hard rock dusts like basalt or granite. I add both at the rate of 1cup/cf. Wet

IDK much about 'coots soil' since I have my own recipe that I've played with over the years that works very well for me and my environment. Likely very similar, but since I don't do social media at all I haven't seen his latest. Plus, back when he was posting at GCO he had the bad habit of...

Not really, Al is the 3rd most abundant element after oxygen and silicon and it is in pretty much everything. Next to impossible to avoid it, but it is also nearly inert in soil and rocks but not quite. For it to release in soil to be toxic that soil would have to be extremely acidic (well...

Just the opposite here, I quit using "Hard rock" dust like those mentioned ^^ and now use just Azomite and Greensand for minerals. They have shown to work best for me and my environment. For Booyah!, other RD works better in his environment. Both of us are right in our choices. and neither...

You can DIY EM fairly easy, if a bit time consuming. There are threads in this forums. No EM1 is a PITA, but far from being a problem. Growers have been making their own for much longer than TeraGanix has been around. Start a worm bin, for real. The microbes in fresh VC are really diverse...

You flat need more perlite. Get some and add to the mix you haven't used yet and double what's already in the mix. "When it looks like there's too much, it's just right" Me. For the cups, besides no water, some more holes in the bottom will not only provide more drainage but will also help...

Sorry, karanja is NOT anise, but comes from the karanja tree and is closely related to neem (also from a tree), and usually come from India. The best certainly does. Check out neemresource.com for info. A RLOS like Coot's mix is miles ahead of Subcools *super soil* and very few organic...

Yeah, the 1/2cup is a good standard to start with. No matter the recipe, it's going to act a bit different for you and your environment/grow style and you will surely adjust it over time. It's very much like making chili the first time from a basic recipe. The second time you make it it's...

Not that particular brand, but all I use is hardwood lump charcoal, crunched up, for my biochar needs. Biochar is not only stupid expensive but the claim that it's fundamentally different than the lump charcoal is wildly exagerated.. Like those Central American farmers that started it 2,000...

Might you be thinking of chicken laying mash/crumbles? It's something I picked up from bait worm farmers. Pretty much corn meal with added Calcium and kicks up both size and reproduction. At less than $15 for a 50lb bag, (usually ~$12), it's certainly cheap as ..... Wet

Perlite will float, but it doesn't "migrate", that's just internet BS as is the "it breaks down into dust and sinks to the bottom like concrete". So... It both migrates upward AND sinks to the bottom !? Talented stuff, huh? After using it for 45 years or so, I've never seen either happen. I...

^^^^THAT^^^^^ +1 Wet

Just from the smell and watering comments it sure sounds like you are seriously lacking in aeration/drainage. My starting point for aeration is 40% perlite and gets close to 50% with other aeration amendments. I would take care of that issue first before anything else because nothing is going...

Worm bins and fresh VC do it for me, plus extras that are found in worms gut. Wet

The simplest thing to do is make a 40% peat and 40% aeration mix separate and use your EWC/Oly mtn blend as the other 20%. My EWC also has aeration in it, but it is not considered towards the overall mix. I have 6 bins and the aeration varies in each. It's just more work than necessary to try...

^^^THAT^^^ The whole point of a "LIVING" Organic soil is promoting a healthy, established, micro herd. Building one just to sterilize it is counter intuitive to the max. Pathogens are usually found because of poor aeration/drainage in a too dense mix. Just from years of making my own mix and...

The Bocking cultivars were developed in the UK (Bocking is the name of the farm/facility), so it's more than likely already there. It is also known as "knitbone" since it has been used for healing for centuries. Animals will naturally eat it if they have stomach ailments or such, but usually...

For the 32/33 gallon cans I normally just do the holes in the bottom for drainage since the lids are loose enough for air to get in and I don't drill them. IDK about holes *everywhere* since I've not done it, but some in the sides should provide more air to the mix. You would need to...

Just to be sure, you do have something like a brick between the top and bottom tote, yes? You do need some space for the water to drip into. If they are tightly nested it's like having no drainage holes at all. Once I do the initial mix, making sure everything is thoroughly moistened with no...