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fascinating that veg cycle lighting made a difference on flowering finsh

I'm back to report that the above setup works exactly as I thought it might. I'm quite pleased with the dusk/dawn sensor so far, even build quality is better than I expected for $3. Unfortunately, I was an idiot and fried my little 10W 730nm cob. Somehow I got it stuck in my head that it was...

I had my issue while using sonoffs , BUT, i was using the loop timer because I was running sub-24hr day cycle so it's easier for things to get screwed up vs. a straight scheduled timer.

I know a lot of people are a bit apprehensive running 730nm on a separate timer - I myself have been burned by the 730nm timer getting off and coming on at the wrong time due to power outages, etc... So, after seeing the HLG solution I got to thinking. I"m pretty sure you could use a dusk/dawn...

found the answer: https://www.coursehero.com/file/22489133/Datasheet-ABL-IBG-module-128LEDs-5630C-REV-1-1/

bought some strips for cheap on ebay, 128 leds per strip, no good data on the internet (made for acuity by samsung)... Here's the odd thing, there's 1 diode (US1J), 1 cap, and 2 resistors on the strip.... so I'm wondering if this an ac/dc rectifier circuit? model # is one of the following...

is the 4.7 umol/s per joule figure specific to a light or is that the theoretical limit of any LED?

board is 235mm, fixture is 390mm I think but I may just get the board.

I'm seriously considering ordering the lm301B UFO with Cree supplements from R2T... I think it would be perfect for my 2x2 that has 6 X EB strips 2nd gen for side lighting.

@Moflow, you've tried a lot of the chinese boards - what are you current favorites?

call me a dork, but the simplicity of the UFO is kind of cool - i dig the spectrum with the added 660s

hehe, ya, red, white, and blue builds :) I have a red puck of osram SSLs (660nm)... I'm thinking of having one made that mixes 630/660/and maybe a few 730.... pair that with a 6500K white or 5700K white cob... might be interesting

not sure if this was directed at me, but if so, in my main tent, i have 6 X 4ft 2nd gen EB strips for sidelighting. My questions and postings today here are just about an experiment I'm setting up.

i guess we are way off topic, but I'd love to know how efficient the all-blue citi 1212 is compared to some of the whites.... curious to know how much power is lost to conversion.

I'll give it a go.... you can't compare LEDs based on wattage. you have to take into account efficiency. You are right - there's nothing wrong with "blurple", however, most of the fixtures including the one you bought use pretty inefficient LEDs so more of your wattage is going to heat...

:) -- I'm prototyping, don't want anything set in stone

so just losses to phosphor? I'm trying to figure out where the radiant energy went.

thanks, I was looking for this type of info.... can you expand on why the need for 24"? would it matter if I was using strip lighting vs cobs? I'm wanting to push the boundaries in a tote/tub grow with an abundance of airflow (110CFM in 5 square ft of tote space). I'm using a panasonic...

in this chart, 3000K betters 2700K in most regards in terms of PPF in the given spectrum.... I'm guessing 2700K missing PPF comes in > 700nm ? (in comparison to the others)....

I've got a friend who's working on a commercial lighting product - he insists that you can produce a light that has more usable PAR for MJ if you make sure you don't have too much green (500-600nm) in your spectrum.... so, he's targeting a usable 1000 PPFD but also < 5000 FC (or 50K lux). I'm...