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I totally agree, but to be fair we are not talking about home grown salad or tomatoes, weed is an expensive flower to buy and some may be feel justified to buy snake oils and try to gain few grams more

By the way, Calcium nitrate and Magnesium (Epsom salt) are literally the easy to find and cheapest powder fertilizers on the market. Always wonder why do people like to buy expensive snake oils...

I did a similar thing with 2 COBs in the 30/36 volt range connected to a single large heatsink. You can use a cheap power supply like this one: http://www.maxwellen.com/en/product_detail-216332-1039087-92295.html He can power just one COB at the time or both in series for around 50W... and is...

A lot of different options in the Maxwellen waterproof range, like this 320ma top that can be dimmed down... http://www.maxwellen.com/En/Product_Detail.aspx?UserInfo_ID=216332&CorpProductClass1_ID=92295&id=1039067 Or this one that can reach 650mh, dimmable to what you need of course...

Supra he's using 4 CXB 3070

Parallel COB wiring is usually not suggested by the manufacturers.

well Atomizer, we didn't agree on the mechanical one? :mrgreen:

hahaha triple protection Dandy @salmonetin sure AC have neutral (blu) wire but this side of the relay doesn't really "work", is just a normal switch and usually is connected in series to the phase wire (brown). The side of the relay that really "work" is the one connected to low DC voltage...

Dandyrandy I think this is more ore less your fail safe setup. behold the masterpiece :mrgreen:

Well, actually Dandy, having the disk thermostat wired on the 12v line with the relay is safer and smarter :mrgreen: Now i understand what Salmonetin was asking

The disk thermostat is even simpler, you just connect it somwere in your LED driver main fase input. Probably it's a good option for people that put the drivers nearby the lamp/dissipator. If you are running all the powers supply/drivers outside the grow room is easier to stick with the relay...

You do not need any actuator for the relay, he will be powered directly by the 12v power supply wired in parallel with the fans. When powered the contact is close and the Led Driver is powered. When/if the 12v power supply fail, the relay will be released and the contact open so the Led Driver...

Or you use the relay or the disk thermostat or the thermal fuse. Only one of these solutions.

available with manual reset, so the light will not keep going ON/OFF as the heatsink temperature drop.

Yes, disc thermostat, sorry my mistake :mrgreen:

No, a thermal switch is a switch like the one used for turning on/off any house light, he just operate when a rated temperature is reached. A relay is an electro magnetic switch that can be activated by the presence of a lover volage, like the fans power supply in this case. If the power supply...

So in this case a SSR is even better, worst case scenario the plants don't get light for few hours to a day.

Actually he should work. Or you can use a thermal switch connected to the heatsik so if the temperature rise over the rated value he will break your driver power line.

The Light enclosure himself seems well made to me but the quality of the LED/Driver doesn't suit the average user of this forum. Maybe a DIY kit with just the empty case that can be filled with components that we trust an like...

Also the Vero series is easy to screw directly on the heatsink and is available a pre-wired connector that allow to skip the soldering part.