2700K Cfl's vs. 6000-6500k cfls

green prince dankington

green prince dankington

Active Member
I am starting growing with fluorescents and I am wondering which color temperature is best for the entire cycle because I have a limited budget. 6000k bulbs are much more expensive so would it be fine if I used 2700k for the entire life of the plants?
 
Woomeister

Woomeister

Well-Known Member
you would have very poor results. Bulbs of all spectrums cost the same where I am, never heard of different price scales for differing kelvins!lol.
 
jcdws602

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
6500k and 2700k mixed,,, 1 for each 1.For flowering 2700k I'm sure everybody is gonna tell hid is the way to go which is true but I guess if your on a budget 2700k for flowering 6500k for vegging.
 
Woomeister

Woomeister

Well-Known Member
The only proof I have is through my own experience. I have grown with 250 watt cfls and tried the warm bulb all the way through as an experiment. Well compared to starting with a cool bulb there was no comparison. Im not denying success is possible in certain cases but on the whole we grow indoors to try and create as perfect an environment as possible, using a 2700k bulb throughout is not ideal.
 
Where in the hell am I?

Where in the hell am I?

Well-Known Member
Woomeister said:
The only proof I have is through my own experience. I have grown with 250 watt cfls and tried the warm bulb all the way through as an experiment. Well compared to starting with a cool bulb there was no comparison. Im not denying success is possible in certain cases but on the whole we grow indoors to try and create as perfect an environment as possible, using a 2700k bulb throughout is not ideal.
Click to expand...
Then we agree to disagree!bongsmilie
 
jcdws602

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
I mix mine up for every 1 warm white(2700k) 1 cool white (6500k) in my veg room.6500k is blueish light mimicking summer days and 2700k redish mimicking days of fall.These are grown with 1 and 1 on each fixture.I have 3 fixtures that I bought at Wal-Mart
 
TeaTreeOil

TeaTreeOil

Well-Known Member
If you find any of the following useful... rep(green '+' spot) would be appreciated.

If you can only get one CFL bulb type, make it 5000k(called: full spectrum). It's balanced for both veg & flower. 2700/3000k(called: warm white) is the 'peak' for red spectrum growth. Around 6500k(called: daylight) is 'peak' for blue spectrum. They're best mixed no matter what you use. You're best off getting lower-powered(~42 watt or less) 6500K bulbs, as they're primary veg, which takes half the amount of light, basically(unless you grow them HUGE). Getting higher powered 2700K or even 5000K bulbs will promote better blooming and even spectrum.

Or get a T5 set-up! Ballasts are around $50(inc. tax/shipping) that can power two 54w(once 54w bulb = ~150W HID equivalent, at 1/3rd power). So for $50 + $20 for two bulbs. $70 for 300W HID equivalent! Under $140 and you could do very near the equivalent of 600W(2.8x) HID, which would also cost you twice much up-front, and power usage? A mere 216W(4*54w)! Neither includes ballast consumption, but that seems minor!

Plant-specific LEDs claim nearly 99% PAR, and as such are ~2.8 times more efficient than HID(and costly). Technically CFLS can get up to 2.3 times as efficient as HID; however, most CFLS are 1.7 times as efficient or 'better than' HID.
UFO lights, 90 one watt LEDS, claims equivalent to 600W HID at 2525 lumens (6.6 times)*. Some are several hundred dollars(avoid). The claims sound somewhat outrageous. 13.8w=118, 48w=1224, 90w=2525 lumens

Then there's this site: http://www.enviro-gro-lites.co.uk/stuff1.asp
100% PAR, CFLs, if the claims are true(it makes the LED 90w=600w HID story smell of bullshit) the 250W CFL bulb(author statesL 3-4 cm away w/reflectors... maybe he meant the 125w bulbs? ambitious!) would to be more plant-friendly(PAR) than a 400W HID(as compared to a 220-350W 'regular' CFL).
NexStar claims their 220W 347V (Canada) is 400W Metal Halide equivalent http://www.nexstarlighting.com

*all link for references only! This last one is probably bullshit, so don't say I didn't warn ya... http://www.thelashop.com/product.php?productid=391

If you did't know, HPS and MH top out around 35% PAR(brand new), and degrade in PAR value quicker than mere lumen output(HID400w@50k lumens = ~17,500 PUR). Other bulbs also degrade over time, but not nearly as quickly. If what the 100% PAR CFL guy claims is true... 140W CFL would be equivalent to 400W HID. At around just over 1 inch away... vs 1 foot for HPS... I might have to believe him.
 
v12xjs

v12xjs

Well-Known Member
I'm with WhereInTheHellAmI on this one. 2700K on it's own is fine if that's all you can afford.
Do a search on 12/12 from seed if you want to know how to get the best from it.
 
Where in the hell am I?

Where in the hell am I?

Well-Known Member
TeaTreeOil said:
If you find any of the following useful... rep(green '+' spot) would be appreciated.

If you can only get one CFL bulb type, make it 5000k(called: full spectrum). It's balanced for both veg & flower. 2700/3000k(called: warm white) is the 'peak' for red spectrum growth. Around 6500k(called: daylight) is 'peak' for blue spectrum. They're best mixed no matter what you use. You're best off getting lower-powered(~42 watt or less) 6500K bulbs, as they're primary veg, which takes half the amount of light, basically(unless you grow them HUGE). Getting higher powered 2700K or even 5000K bulbs will promote better blooming and even spectrum.

Or get a T5 set-up! Ballasts are around $50(inc. tax/shipping) that can power two 54w(once 54w bulb = ~150W HID equivalent, at 1/3rd power). So for $50 + $20 for two bulbs. $70 for 300W HID equivalent! Under $140 and you could do very near the equivalent of 600W(2.8x) HID, which would also cost you twice much up-front, and power usage? A mere 216W(4*54w)! Neither includes ballast consumption, but that seems minor!

Plant-specific LEDs claim nearly 99% PAR, and as such are ~2.8 times more efficient than HID(and costly). Technically CFLS can get up to 2.3 times as efficient as HID; however, most CFLS are 1.7 times as efficient or 'better than' HID.
UFO lights, 90 one watt LEDS, claims equivalent to 600W HID at 2525 lumens (6.6 times)*. Some are several hundred dollars(avoid). The claims sound somewhat outrageous. 13.8w=118, 48w=1224, 90w=2525 lumens

Then there's this site: http://www.enviro-gro-lites.co.uk/stuff1.asp
100% PAR, CFLs, if the claims are true(it makes the LED 90w=600w HID story smell of bullshit) the 250W CFL bulb(author statesL 3-4 cm away w/reflectors... maybe he meant the 125w bulbs? ambitious!) would to be more plant-friendly(PAR) than a 400W HID(as compared to a 220-350W 'regular' CFL).
NexStar claims their 220W 347V (Canada) is 400W Metal Halide equivalent http://www.nexstarlighting.com

*all link for references only! This last one is probably bullshit, so don't say I didn't warn ya... http://www.thelashop.com/product.php?productid=391

If you did't know, HPS and MH top out around 35% PAR(brand new), and degrade in PAR value quicker than mere lumen output(HID400w@50k lumens = ~17,500 PUR). Other bulbs also degrade over time, but not nearly as quickly. If what the 100% PAR CFL guy claims is true... 140W CFL would be equivalent to 400W HID. At around just over 1 inch away... vs 1 foot for HPS... I might have to believe him.
Click to expand...
A lot of good info. A little of it is debatable, but I would agree fer the most part (knowing that many other's wouldnt!)
+Rep, BTW
 
TeaTreeOil

TeaTreeOil

Well-Known Member
I would really suggest you not veg with 2700k(very little useful light below 500nm, plants use 350-500nm the most during veg). 5500k would be much better. A GE plant/aquarium bulb would be the best single bulb, of the ones I've seen(they're dual/full spectrum, and have both red and blue spikes in ideal locations)! Or a Hortilux MH, but those are pricey!

See here: https://www.rollitup.org/2081469-post16.html
 
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