a/c question for 6ooo watt room

headbandrocker

Well-Known Member
I read for sealed/closed/cea rooms to give 3ooo btu per 1ooo w light.
So my room is 11 x 13,Im running 6 x 1k lights
if i ran a 24,ooo btu window a/c would this eliminate the need for a/c hoods?
Thanks for reading!
 

benvegas

Well-Known Member
With that much in lighting, its obvious your goal is yield. You might consider A/C and water chilling if you can swing the extra $2500 the water chiller setup will cost you. Since the water will remove the heat from the room by way of the liquid leaving after its hot, your A/C unit will have to be on less and save you $$$ in the long run on electricity.
 

JonKollar

Well-Known Member
definately still cooltube all ur lights and vent them out the same window as ur ac unit.... ur ac unit should be sufficient.....
 

LiEBE420

Well-Known Member
i run a 600 watt hps 18/6 in a closet and i dont need a AC. i just use a cooltube but i vent the air out
 

headbandrocker

Well-Known Member
Hi
I am going with the window unit due to the low cost,but am interested in the chiller idea.
Could you tell me a bit more about how that works in detail?
Are you refering to the "ice box " light coolers?
 

K1Ng5p4d3

Junior Creatologist
I was just about to say the same thing dude. Those Ice Boxes are fuckin SaWEEEET lookin. Cant wait to pick up a couple for myself man, but in your case i think they might do a world of good for you, plus eliminate the need for your A/C altogether. All you have to do is keep the water at the right temp that you want your room to be, and your set man--Im pretty sure how the Icebox works, is it doesnt cool off your light, so much as your growroom itself. You keep your Water 10 degrees below the temp that you want your room to stay at, and then connect your Icebox to your rez (you have to buy a rez and chiller seperately), set temps, and it keeps your room at the temp you set it to. All hot air is exhausted through your rez, and then brought back out of the water, at the temp that you set it to be. Definitely wouldnt set you back as much as a big fuckall A/C unit, thats for sure man. I just shelled out $130 for a lil 5,000 btu unit to keep ambient temps under control in my growshow.

Good luck with that though dude. Also, if your runnin 6 1000w lights, do you not already have the cooled hoods for them, or are you using batwing reflectors? If you already have the aircooled hoods, then just buy a 1200cfm fan, and connect them all to the one fan. Exhaust it through your houses heating ducts. Just my piddly 2cents, lol.

:D
K1.
 

headbandrocker

Well-Known Member
Hi K1
I am using a/c hoods with out the glass right now and only running afew at a time to keep cool.

How much are the chillers need for the ice box? The 24k btu window a/c is only 45o @ home de pot,im on abudget for this round.
My room has a gas heater in it and has a conection to outside i think,i wonder if this would work if i removed the heater...
above the a/c could work aswell,I could also exaust through the dryer duct,but its only a 5" duct,would that be to small?
 

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
cooltubes and glass hoods and blah blah blah are not all they are cracked up to be. If you stick that window A/C in and run your 6k of lights open bulb hanging vertical as in this pic, and add a humidifier to offset the drying effect of the a/c then you can pull off larger yield than anyone doing any other method bar none. And humidifiers are cheap cheap cheap, you can find them used any day of the week on CL or whatever even new they are cheap.


Cooltubes... A needless expense in your case which cuts your light output and has been proven time and again. Sometimes you have no choice, cooltubes are often the best option light loss or no but you have better options.

I'm running 14kw open bulb vertical with 24kbtu's at night. (This pic is not my grow, it's the holy grail I am aiming for.)

It takes more than just the above to get the results in the pic though, but this shows you the guys that really know and have the choice absolutely don't use cooltubes or vented hoods. Hell you'd never catch them using horizontal bulbs at all, not with results like this.
 

420caregiver

Active Member
cooltubes and glass hoods and blah blah blah are not all they are cracked up to be. If you stick that window A/C in and run your 6k of lights open bulb hanging vertical as in this pic, and add a humidifier to offset the drying effect of the a/c then you can pull off larger yield than anyone doing any other method bar none. And humidifiers are cheap cheap cheap, you can find them used any day of the week on CL or whatever even new they are cheap.


Cooltubes... A needless expense in your case which cuts your light output and has been proven time and again. Sometimes you have no choice, cooltubes are often the best option light loss or no but you have better options.

I'm running 14kw open bulb vertical with 24kbtu's at night. (This pic is not my grow, it's the holy grail I am aiming for.)

It takes more than just the above to get the results in the pic though, but this shows you the guys that really know and have the choice absolutely don't use cooltubes or vented hoods. Hell you'd never catch them using horizontal bulbs at all, not with results like this.

Wow is this a Grow room that used CO2? or is it all Natural?
 

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
That grow is a krusty bucket grow. Google krusty bucket or freedom bucket or crusty bucket. It's a hard core seriously labor intensive all out balls to the wall setup requiring specific setup and an expensive high volume air pump, expensive chiller to keep the water temp down, and a bucket in a bucket bubble setup plus a drip system on top. Well not a traditional bubble setup, the water has to froth violently with high volumes of air so there really are no bubbles.

And talk about constant work. Lots of flushing and fiddling to stay at 100%, and only certain strains have the potential to even yield like that pic.

But regardless of how you grow the light arrangement has been proven to be the most productive. Doesn't matter if you do soil or what, vertical bulbs using 360 degrees of the most intense light off the bulb is just the most efficient way to use them, horizontal bulbs cost you a lot of loss. This same concept is being proved more and more with all the vertical grows using many plants. Vertical open bulbs just can't be beat.

And you bet that setup is using CO2, it's using every ideal known to man plus the right strain and a very experienced hand.

One of these days I'll get there myself, but in no way am I there yet. I haven't even started flowering yet, not until my plants reach 6 or 7' tall in veg because I'm going to bend them over with two or three main colas each and have the equivalent of 14' tall plants or more in my tall garage grow. My tallest plant right now is maybe 5' at most.

I didn't have the money to do krusty buckets, buying all the lights and a/c broke me, more than broke me. This grow I'm doing now is just soil, FFOF. I have to dig myself out of serious debt now before I can even think of doing krusty buckets. But you bet your ass I'll be doing it when I can. I'm pretty sure the ak/atf crosses I'm running can yield like that given all that's needed and if I work at it like a full time job.

I really need a 5 ton a/c but I couldn't afford it so I can't run all my lights during the day, I'm lucky to do half that but at the size they are now I don't need all of the lights. I can run them all at night when it's cool out and I'm ok, for now...

This huge plant growing style is for medical grows where your plant count is limited. If you're not legal and you can break the law all you want then don't do this method, do vertical with many plants so you don't have all the expensive gear and trouble and so you don't have to veg for months before bringing them into the flowering area.


:hump:
 

headbandrocker

Well-Known Member
Thnks Om,
Dang 7ft!? wow mine are about 4.5 or 5ft in waterfarms and ebb & grow buckets.39 plants total.
I ran a stadium grow last round and had 3 x 1k bulbs hung vertically and got monster buds,but not a huge yield.I thought I was loosing some light,but maybe just didnt have enough light,or have it close enough cause all i got ws .5gpw ={
I was even thinking of hanging 6 x vertically no hood,and 6 x w hoods and use the flipflop to cycle 6 hrs on each set.Best of both worlds,but fuck ducting.

But for easyness and lack of sockets/bulbs i will consider just the vert bare bulbs.
I absolutely hate all the ducting running all over the room and dont want to cut holes in the wall for exaust/intake etc..should i just go bare bulbs and call it a day?
 

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
You will find that you want the vertical bulbs somewhere around the level of the tops of the plants. Not above at all, sunk into the canopy where the highest part of the bulb is equal or a few inches lower than the tops. Hold a piece of cardboard up to your light and see where it's most intense... Put your plants in that intense light cone. Also you will find that you can have 1000w vertical open bulb insanely close to the plants and in some cases nearly touching if you have good airflow. That's because there is no hood to trap and reflect the heat so most (or at least much of) it just goes straight up.

Forget everything you have ever heard about how far away to keep your bulb, it doesn't apply here. Push how close you can run it until you burn a leaf, then back off a little. I always intentionally burn a leaf on a new setup and then back off to where it doesn't burn. Then I'll try some an inch further and others another inch further and so on and then if they are clones you are running and all else is equal, whatever plant grows the fastest is the one telling you exactly the ideal distance for all your lights in your setup. Then you have to move the lights and plants to accomodate that distance. It makes things a lot easier if you put chicken wire or something similar on your ceiling and have the lights on hooks with adjustable hangers so you can just move them around easily as can be any time.


The layout of plants and lights is also very important, it's not just light plant light plant both directions, there's tricks and an art to getting absolutely 100% out of everything you do and use. Each light should have two plants on each of four sides of it, if that makes sense, and provided they're just not too big for that to work out. Sometimes a triangle layout is the best. Just put as much vegitation in the light cone and as close as possible to each light.


Follow what I suggested and easily double your yield if you weren't set up close to ideal before.
 

headbandrocker

Well-Known Member
Lol i just typed a long ass reply and accidentally erased it...hah

Om Thnks for your help bro you saaved the day!!
I am unclear on the layout of plants and lights.

I have 14 x 3 & 4ft bushes in waterfarms
and 24 smaller 1 and 2ft bushes in e&f buckets

If i have too many plants for this hoodles laayout let me know,I read less = more with the tree farming {less plants/more light} Any suggestions on # i should run in there?
I want to flip on the first of june, so cant veg much more,luckily i haave a few trees started!

I have my electrician commin tomorow,
Any suggestions on the ideal way to setup my electrical?
My panel=1oo amps
need to run 6 x 1k @ 5 amps ech=3o amp
and 24,ooo btu ac = 2o amps so 6o?
I want a sub panel right?
My dood knows his shit,but hasnt wired a growroom before so anything i could tell him to help get the best reults would be greatly appreciated,thanks and praise
 

headbandrocker

Well-Known Member
I have much bigger buds on the smaller plants which had the hoods on them...
than the ones around 2 bare 1ks and i am going to retire this idea and just use the hoods as it looks like better results.The bare bulb thing would only work if i had the whole room like that maybe..I feel like im wasting my largest plants by not useing the hoods...
will post some pics later,cheers
 
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