Any success with no to low reservoir change, just keep topping w/ R/O and nutes

bender420

Well-Known Member
Hey guys the longest I ran without a reservoir change was 4 weeks in ebb n flow with coco (botanicare) and the plants were really good, due to some circumstances i had to take my system apart so currently i am just hand watering.

For 4 weeks I just kept topping the reservoir with r/o water with nutes. I am growing in coco. The nutes I am using are cashcrop by dutchglory. I am assuming that certain nutes will be better for low to no reservoir changes.

I know folks that follow the lucas formula have tried this with success.

Any input on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
 
I

Illegal Smile

Guest
I'm not going to call it a bad idea but the reason I don't do it is I'm unconvinced it is possible to keep a correct mix of nutes. Yes you can set ppms but that doesn't tell you what the ratios are within that. A res change resets everything to correct.
 

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
I'm not going to call it a bad idea but the reason I don't do it is I'm unconvinced it is possible to keep a correct mix of nutes. Yes you can set ppms but that doesn't tell you what the ratios are within that. A res change resets everything to correct.

Exactly. Not saying it can't be done. But it should be flushed and "reset" sorta speak. I am going on 3 weeks right now, but this is a long one for me. I'm only doing it because I'm going to run AN Big Bud for a week longer than usual. This is my second run in this growroom with this strain (from clones) and I know it's going to take 9-10 weeks and so I'm basing my feeding schedule on that. I don't want to flush my reservoir and reset it with Big Bud and then flush it again next week to reset it with Overdrive.

But to attempt to help this out I let the water low get as low as possible. I have a 30 gallon reservoir and I just added 20 gallons to it to "top it up". The balance of nutes shouldn't have any problem getting me throught the extra week.

I've had friends try to go four weeks and starting having problems. They had no idea why they were having problems and I asked "When was the last time you flushed the reservoir?". And they looked at me like "When I started flower". Well...that's why you are having problems sir.
 

chronicdice88

Well-Known Member
its not so much the nute levels that are hard to keep up when u dont change the res. but the OXYGEN levels are another major benefit for changing the res out once a week or whatever ur schedule is. Roots love that air bath they get.. my 2 cents would be if u dont want to change the res ever then just make sure there is plenty of oxygen in that water.

peace n love
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Hey guys the longest I ran without a reservoir change was 4 weeks in ebb n flow with coco (botanicare) and the plants were really good, due to some circumstances i had to take my system apart so currently i am just hand watering.

For 4 weeks I just kept topping the reservoir with r/o water with nutes. I am growing in coco. The nutes I am using are cashcrop by dutchglory. I am assuming that certain nutes will be better for low to no reservoir changes.

I know folks that follow the lucas formula have tried this with success.

Any input on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
My R/O filter is getting here on Monday, and I'm going to be doing just that from here on out - rez changes every two months (they say you can go up to six months, but that seems to be pushing it to me).

Going to top off with nute-adjusted water between changes and keep my PPM @~1300.

I did this no reservoir change thing before, in 45 gallon sterilite tubs in DWC, but that was ten years ago and do to laziness, but my plants showed no ill effects.

Figure with some proper RO water, some Floranova Bloom and the proper pH/TDS testers, I should be okay.

We'll see though.
 

fatman7574

New Member
CF and EC PPM

‘CF’ or ‘EC’ is a commonly used measure to determine the strength of a hydroponic nutrient solution. As salts dissociate into ions in solution, they carry a positive or negative charge (eg KNO3 --> K+ + NO3-,) which can transmit electricity. Pure water will not transmit electricity, but as soon as salts are added, the ability of the solution to conduct electricity increases. This conductance increases with increasing solution strength. CF (Conductivity Factor) and EC (Electrical Conductivity) are a measure of this characteristic of nutrient salt solutions. While CF seems to be a very convenient measure, there are problems associated with relying only on CF to control hydroponic nutrient formula.

1) The CF will be roughly the same regardless of the element content of the solution. A nutrient solution with CF 20 can not be distinguished from a sodium chloride solution with CF 20.
2) Different nutrient salts show different capacities to conduct electricity when in solution, so that depending on the nutrient ratios and the individual salts used, the CF may give a very different indication of the true ionic strength of the solution. A solution of potassium nitrate at CF 20 will be approximately half the strength (in ppm) of a solution of magnesium sulfate at CF 20. This is because potassium nitrate conducts nearly twice as much electricity at the same ionic strength.
3) Even if the nutrient element content of the formula was known accurately at the start, once the solution has been recirculating through a growing crop for a few weeks, the element content changes - the CF may well stay the same.

CONDUCTIVITY OF SOME COMMON HYDROPONIC NUTRIENTS AT 2000 PPM

SALT mg/l, CF, EC,
Calcium Nitrate 2000, 20, 2,
Potassium Nitrate 2000, 25, 2.5
Magnesium Sulfate 2000, 12, 1.2
The CF of a nutrient formulation is a combination of the CF contributed by all the dissociated nutrient salts from the A
and B stock solutions as well as impurities from the water supply, and is not really any indication of the quality of the formula, just an estimate of its strength. In hydroponics the only way to determine the nutrient makeup of a formula is either to have a complete mineral analysis done, use a range of specific ion meters or to calculate the nutrients in advance and use these in drain to waste systems. Any solution in recirculating hydroponics will change over time and can often develop toxic levels of some ions in fairly short periods of times (a few weeks if your reservoir is small).

PPM
The other common indicator for hydroponic nutrient strength is PPM, or parts per million. 1 part per million is
1 equivalent to 1 mg per litre, or 1 g per m3. In theory, this is a measure of the actual strength of the nutrient elements in solution, and would seem to be an ideal measurement for hydroponics. However, measuring this in practice can be very difficult for a grower in hydroponics.

TDS METERS
An alternative to solve the problems with CF as a measurement may seem to be to use ‘TDS’ or total dissolved solids as a measure of nutrient solution strength, and if ‘TDS Meters’ in fact did this, it would solve the problems. However a ‘TDS’ meter is simply a ‘CF’ meter with different calibration and display — it still only measures electrical conductivity, and in fact is less accurate because of the assumptions made regarding the salt makeup of the solution - many assume potassium chloride and have a fixed conversion factor (eg 70ppm per CF unit) which can not be adjusted for different solution formulations. TDS meters which can be calibrated for different formulations are a better alternative, but still are only measuring CF in reality.

CF EFFECTS ON PLANT GROWTH
If we assume that in hydroponics, the CF is a measure of the strength of a nutrient solution, this has a significant affect on the growth of plants, regardless of the mineral content of the solution. Ions can enter root systems by various means. Simplest is the form of `passive’ transport using the symplastic pathway, where ions simply diffuse through spaces between root cells, into the xylem in response to a concentration gradient from the solution to the plant. The other two mechanisms involve transport across the semi-permeable membranes inside root cells, and occur either by osmosis or active transport using special protein ‘carriers’.

Osmosis describes the behaviour of ions in solution when separated by a semi-permeable membrane, as for example at the interface of root cells and nutrient solution. The concentration of ions on either sideof the membrane determines the net flow of ions through the membrane, as if ions are more concentrated in solution than in root cells and the membrane permits the transmission of ions, then ions will tend to flow into the roots. This process is known as `passive’ transport or diffusion, and is assisted by the flow of water in the transpiration stream of the plant. In fact, root cells tend to maintain quite high ‘osmotic potentiaIs’ but into the roots. Some ions, Ca2+ and K+, NO3-, for example, are able to be transported into root cells, even against a concentration gradient by the energy requiring process of active transport. Once water and ions are inside the roots they diffuse through into the xylem vessels and flow with the transpiration stream up into the stem. A natural reaction of some plants to increasing solution strength, is to accumulate assimilates in the leaves and fruit to equalise the osmotic potential with the root zone.

This explanation is the basis for the effects noticed by increasing or decreasing CF in hydroponics. CF influences the ‘osmotic potential' of the solution in the root zone, which influences the p|ant’s rate of water and nutrient uptake, and the adjustments made to osmotic potential inside the plant. Increasing CF will reduce water uptake by the crop, and it cause plants to concentrate organic compounds in foliage.

Increasing CF tends to slow vegetative growth, and ‘harden’ plants. Conversely, lowering CF will increase water uptake, and produce lush soft growth. Consequently, the CF of solutions is normally increased during winter and for budding, while vegeative growing is often run at a lower CF to maintain optimum plant vitality. This means in general it is better to run lower strength solutions (lower EC) and add additional small amounts of nutrients more often than to run high EC and add larger amounts of nutrients less often. Plants never need high EC nutrient solutions. They grow much betterwith medium range EC that is adjusted back to those levels constantly or often. It is often noted by experienced growers that peoples spalnts in sytems where they run high EC are putting on their best growth just before the growers adds more nutrients. when they add nutrient and raise the EC level back up the rateof plant growth slows until the EC lowers and then the rate starts incraesing, but then the grower raises it again. Go figure.

CF can be maintained at higher levels in solution culture than in media or drain to waste systems. In solution culture there is a constant supply of water and the CF does not fluctuate in the root zone, whereas in media systems evaporation from the surface of the media and plant water uptake can result in the CF becoming much higher in the root zone than in the ‘feed’ solution. The ratio of CF in the feed to rootzone and leachate solutions needs to be well regulated in drain-to waste systems, and CF ‘in’ (feed) and CF ‘out’ (drainage) should be standard daily measurements.

In short. IMHO Change the reservoir solutions as often as you can afford and clean the reservoir with chlorine or hydrogen peroxide (rinse well) before each refill. Personally I change reservoir solutions once per week on my aeroponic system grow rooms (every 2 weeks for remotelly located systems). I use auto top off for RO water that is always powered. I use both pH and conductivity analyzer/controllers with peristaltic pumps to maintain EC. The newer room are all going with air atomizers so they will be all drain to waste. That means within a few months I will have a lot of extra pH analyzer/controllers and conductivity analyzer/controllers and pumps, plus less electrical consumption.

This forum needs a thread for selling equipment.
 

doogleef

Well-Known Member
YES! I have done this successfully. It takes a very specific nute mix to do and get away with and you MUST you H2O2 to keep pathogens under control. The Lucas Formula is meant to be used it 1 of 2 ways:

1. Fill and mix your rez to the prescribed PPM (about 950 @ .5) and then add back regular water every few days. Once you have replaced the volume of water that was originally in the rez, dump and start over. So, if you have a 20 gallon rez, add back water every few days till you have put in a full 20 gallon (takes about 2 weeks) then dump and start over.

2. You can add back nutes with your fill water and not dump for the full cycle. This method uses a lot less nutes and CAN be done as long as you are very careful to never add back more nutes than you should. It is VERY easy to spike your PPM using this method and when you have a PPM that is too high and a full rez, you have issues. This works because the amount of each nutrient that the plant takes up is in the proper level in the nutes. If any 1 element is to high in the starting mix you will have trouble.

I'm assuming you are familiar with the Lucas Formula. 8/16 micro/bloom with the GH or AN 3-part (no grow) or you can you GH FloraNovaBloom at 8ml/gallon for the same mix.

If you are interested in the science behind the formula it can be found here: http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

This is one of my favorite topics so please feel free to ask any questions you have about it. :)
 

plantz

Well-Known Member
how much h202 do u use with water.. do u have a ratio? i know its only a small amount
 

fatman7574

New Member
H2O2 is one of the most powerful oxidizers known—stronger than chlorine, chlorine dioxide, and potassium permanganate. Hydrogen peroxides decomposition releases oxygen that enhances a plant's root development and helps to treat root rot (cellular root death due to lack of oxygen) and a variety of other pests. It's spontaneous decomposition releases oxygen that enhances a plant's root development and helps to treat root rot (cellular root death due to lack of oxygen) and a variety of other pests. Now that this weak excuse to use H2O2 is out of the way, the best reason to use H2O2 is not as a bandaid for supplying inadequate dissolved O2 but as an oxidizer and therefore sterilizer.

Hydrogen peroxide always decomposes (disproportionates) exothermically (releases energy as heat) into water and oxygen gas spontaneously: 2 H2O2 → 2 H2O + O2

Very, little of this produced O2 is dissolved in the water also produced but is merely a gas added to the surrounding air. While the hydrogen peroxide does produce proportionally a large amount of o@ when it decomposes such small amounts are used that its effects at supply oxygen are nearly negligible. Aeration of the reservoir or an aquarium airstone insertedinto a aerotube would be much more effective.

IMHO one should not consider use of H2O2 for anything except for its use as and oxidizer for root rot and as a disinfectant to clean equipment. Using it to increase dissolved oxygen is kinda useless as it breaks down immediatelly into water and gaseous O2 so at most it only adds to the level of dissolved O2 for a few minutes after each small addition. One can not artifficially maintain high levels of dissolved O2 for any length of time in an open resrvoir. To expect a level above about 12 mg/L is pretty rediculous so the CannaStats article is sorta absurd. It is not uncommon for a typical stream that is quite aerated to have DO levels no higher than 5 mg/L.

I would definitely not use H2O2 for the gross excess of uses as listed by the CannaStats article. Just put a little hydrogen peroxide on your own skin and you can see it oxidizes live tissue, dead tissue, it reacts with metals especially iron. While I think it a great disinfectant, it is not a good supplier of O2. It is not really a safe product unless used in very small concentrations. For preventative treatment of Root Rot or Pythh it is much safer to use dilute chlorine. Remember the general rule about those marketers that ride adds and make claims on the products sold almost exclusively to pot growers. The way to tell when they are lying is that their lips move.
 

bender420

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much guys for the great info. I am gonna try the no rez change with the lucas formula and also try it with my current nutes, cashcrop by dutch glory. we'll see how it goes. As for this topic there seems to be a lot of different opinions. I am leaning towards the side of not changing the reservoir.
 

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
Why are you doing this again? Is this because you are too lazy to change your reservoir?

Why grow pot if you aren't serious? Why not grow in soil if you don't want to deal with flushing reservoirs? Or Hempy Buckets? Something that has at least a wing and a prayer at success. Trying to do an entire grow without changing your water is disgusting and more than likely you won't pull it off with 100% success. Don't come back crying when you can't figure out what's wrong with your plants. The only answer you're going to get is "Stop being a fucktard and flush your reservoir", but to each thier own.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Why are you doing this again? Is this because you are too lazy to change your reservoir?

Why grow pot if you aren't serious? Why not grow in soil if you don't want to deal with flushing reservoirs? Or Hempy Buckets? Something that has at least a wing and a prayer at success. Trying to do an entire grow without changing your water is disgusting and more than likely you won't pull it off with 100% success. Don't come back crying when you can't figure out what's wrong with your plants. The only answer you're going to get is "Stop being a fucktard and flush your reservoir", but to each thier own.

Ditto! I agree whole heartedly.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Why are you doing this again? Is this because you are too lazy to change your reservoir?

Why grow pot if you aren't serious? Why not grow in soil if you don't want to deal with flushing reservoirs? Or Hempy Buckets? Something that has at least a wing and a prayer at success. Trying to do an entire grow without changing your water is disgusting and more than likely you won't pull it off with 100% success. Don't come back crying when you can't figure out what's wrong with your plants. The only answer you're going to get is "Stop being a fucktard and flush your reservoir", but to each thier own.
I assume that this post is directed to the OP, but I guess it's applicable to me as well - to answer your question(s), yes, certainly convenience and/or laziness comes into play, as well as (not a big factor, but a factor) the cost of changing out my 50 gallon rez and putting in fresh nutes every two weeks.

However, I'd dare anyone to take a look at my journal and setup and conclude that I'm "not serious" - truthfully, lots and lots of people have had success with this method, so although it's not your cup of tea, I'm not sure that it's "disgusting" and also that I won't have success with it.

Anyways, filter came about twenty minutes ago, so I'm gonna hook that up and see what happens - trust me, if I see any problems happening, I certainly won't hesitate to change my rez out, but I'm gonna leave it be until I see the start of any issues.

I'm keeping a journal, so we can see together if it "works" or not.
 

fatman7574

New Member
If your really serious about growing pot sucessfuly and cheaply both then mix your own nutrients. Quit wasting money on supporting the early retirement and decadent life styles of the nutrient manfactures as your the one taking all the chances not them, and quit worrying about the cost of nutes. Nutes are only expensive when you play the nute manfacturers game. They try to convince every one it is near rocket science to formulate and mix nutrient formulations. It is far from it. A typical nutrient x100 concentrate only costs approximattely $6 to $7.50 to mix up and much cheaper than that if you buy full bags of bulk fertilizers from farm supply out fits rather than a reatiler like Crop King. The $6 to $7.50 estimate is the cost to produce Lucas formula in a two part mix, when buying the ingrediants from Crop King.

Can't say much about how to deal with laziness. I will say your plants will pay for the combination of laziness and cheapskate approach that results in infrequent resrvoir changes. Thats OK though as the more people there are with the same approach the easier it will be for me to sell off all my excess Conductivity controllers and their pumps. By a conductivity and pH controller and pumps plus an auto water top off system. Now that is the height of automated lazziness. I have lots of extras. However, even when using them I still cahnge the reservoir nutrients frequently. Oh, thats right my nutes are cheap. Actually, my RODI water used to mix the nutrients cost more to produce than the cost of the fertilizer.
 

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
My comment was directed at bender who says he's going to do with "no rez changeout". Doing it monthly even instead of every 2 weeks is one thing, and like I said I've gone and am currently going on week 3. But to try to do an entire grow without changing the reservoir? That's disgusting, not from a "you're a digusing human" standpoint, I mean it's gross. Just sitting water anywhere for 2-3 months is disgusting (unless you add chlorine, which we know won't be happening here, that would be bad).
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
If your really serious about growing pot sucessfuly and cheaply both then mix your own nutrients. Quit wasting money on supporting the early retirement and decadent life styles of the nutrient manfactures as your the one taking all the chances not them, and quit worrying about the cost of nutes. Nutes are only expensive when you play the nute manfacturers game. They try to convince every one it is near rocket scence to formulate and mix nutrient formulations. It is far from it. A typical nutrient x100 concentrate only costs approximattely $6 to $7.50 to mix up.

Can't say much about how to deal with laziness. I will say your plants will pay for the laziness and cheapskate approach though. Thats OK though as the more people there are with the same approach the esaier it will be for me to sell off all my excess Conductivity controllers and their pumps. By a conductivity and pH controller and pumps plus an auto water top off system. Now that is the height of automated lazziness. I have lots of extras.
A few things:

1) One would be hard-pressed to call me a "cheapskate" - I'm over $6K into my grow and haven't even started flowering yet, so I'm probably at the other end of the spectrum from "cheapskate".

2) I've seen numerous threads where you've been called out personally for not only being a malcontent, but also for never posting pics of these "massive" grows that you have going on - kinda makes me skeptical of any info that you provide.

3) I don't use what the nute manufacturers say to use, I use the Lucas formula.

4) Trust me, with the amount of money I've put into this grow, a $25 bottle of nutes ain't shit to me - that being said, if I don't need to use nutes every two weeks, I'm not gonna.

5) I have the time but not the inclination to mix my own nutes - as stated above, have no problem paying for them.

Anyhow, I'm pretty set on what I'm gonna do (until my plants tell me otherwise), so good luck to you, and I'm sure you wish me the same.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
BTW, as far as the automated pH and EC controller, that's my next purchase (for real).

Been unemployed for a couple of months, but when I do find work, it's a very fast-paced and time-consuming field, so trying to get everything as automated as possible in the interim.

Again, good luck to you in your grows.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
My comment was directed at bender who says he's going to do with "no rez changeout". Doing it monthly even instead of every 2 weeks is one thing, and like I said I've gone and am currently going on week 3. But to try to do an entire grow without changing the reservoir? That's disgusting, not from a "you're a digusing human" standpoint, I mean it's gross. Just sitting water anywhere for 2-3 months is disgusting (unless you add chlorine, which we know won't be happening here, that would be bad).
Gotcha :blsmoke:

Anyhow, I'm gonna go for as long as I can (no more then 2 months) and see how that goes - I'll certainly report back to this thread on any issues I might've had.

Hoping that 50 gallons lets me get away with a little less changing then normal; that being said, I could deal with a once a month change.

Installing my Stealth filter now, this thing is a biatch.
 

fatman7574

New Member
I quit posting photos after the last time I went to prison on a felony manafacturing conviction. Hard to stand on your fifth amendment rights after posing photos on a public forum. Hard to find a lawyer that will represnt you after posting photos om a public forum. It is just akin to signing a cofession.

Define malcontent. If you mean I am not sheep or a follower. That is quite true. Am I judgmental, crititical, pessimistic, anti capitalistic, tactless and without many refined social skills. Yep that's me. But am I well educated, very experienced in many areas including having over 35 years experience growing pot, and do I know what I am writing about. Yes. I do not claim to be nice or sweet.
 
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