Basement Grow

Decanthas

Active Member
Expanding into a basement. Concrete floors and walls. Area is 10'6" x 28'4"

What breakdown in room sizes would you recommend? I was hoping to do an 8'x10' mother / clone room and ether (2) 10'x10' flowering rooms with (4) 1000's each or if it's not too much wattage: (2) 5'x20' rooms with (5) 1000's each. Is that too much wattage for the space?
 

shahomy

Well-Known Member
Expanding into a basement. Concrete floors and walls. Area is 10'6" x 28'4"

What breakdown in room sizes would you recommend? I was hoping to do an 8'x10' mother / clone room and ether (2) 10'x10' flowering rooms with (4) 1000's each or if it's not too much wattage: (2) 5'x20' rooms with (5) 1000's each. Is that too much wattage for the space?
10x10 sounds great if you can afford the room...I`m doing (4) 1000`s in a 7.5 x 8, in a basement...wish I had the couple extra feet...

I assume your ready for the associated electrc bill...just got mine, $692 :-(
It`s def tight in here...

 

NorthernHize

Well-Known Member
all your dimensions and wattage sound good. However in concrete basements it is best to line the walls with vapor barrier. most times the ceilings are exposed as well, not a good idea. seal everything up real good. have had to fix many a situation just like yours.
 

jkwrestling13

Well-Known Member
10x10 sounds great if you can afford the room...I`m doing (4) 1000`s in a 7.5 x 8, in a basement...wish I had the couple extra feet...

I assume your ready for the associated electrc bill...just got mine, $692 :-(
It`s def tight in here...

The electric costs are minimal compared to the final product bongsmilie:cool:
 

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
Expanding into a basement. Concrete floors and walls. Area is 10'6" x 28'4"

What breakdown in room sizes would you recommend? I was hoping to do an 8'x10' mother / clone room and ether (2) 10'x10' flowering rooms with (4) 1000's each or if it's not too much wattage: (2) 5'x20' rooms with (5) 1000's each. Is that too much wattage for the space?
What ever you choose remember to think about how youll maintain the space. If you are wall to wall with plant. It's going to be real hard to get to the back side. You'll want to rotate pots. Check for bugs ect. You don't want to be crawling under them to look back there. Of course a door on the back side solves that. Plan it out properly. Or you'll be tinkering with it forever.
 

Decanthas

Active Member
I have decided to go for 5x20 rectangular rooms rather than two 10x10 primarily to create an aisle down the side of each room. Thank you GOLDBERG71.

What ever you choose remember to think about how youll maintain the space. If you are wall to wall with plant. It's going to be real hard to get to the back side. You'll want to rotate pots. Check for bugs ect. You don't want to be crawling under them to look back there. Of course a door on the back side solves that. Plan it out properly. Or you'll be tinkering with it forever.
NorthernHize said:
all your dimensions and wattage sound good. However in concrete basements it is best to line the walls with vapor barrier. most times the ceilings are exposed as well, not a good idea. seal everything up real good. have had to fix many a situation just like yours.
Regarding vapor barrier, I had anticipated a concrete epoxy for the floors, panda film for the ceiling, and mylar for the walls. I already have several hundred feet of 4' Mylar from my previous operation, otherwise I would use panda everywhere. Is panda film sufficient to prevent moisture contamination of the exposed joists and sub flooring above?

I am performing a test run for DYI epoxy coating by doing my garage first and will be having my basement floor tested for transpiration rates to confirm an epoxy floor is possible.
 

francy420

Well-Known Member
As a contractor I would think panda plastic to be sufficient vapor barrier. I usually line the ceilings of my basement rooms with the 1/2" foam insulation that has reflective film on one side. And good call on the moisture test before laying down the epoxy floor. It will peal if there is too much moisture present. I pull 1lb. out of each of my 7'-6" x 7'-6" rooms but that is all the space I have. Harvest every 30 days from the 2 and have my veg room in between.
 

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
I have decided to go for 5x20 rectangular rooms rather than two 10x10 primarily to create an aisle down the side of each room. Thank you GOLDBERG71.





Regarding vapor barrier, I had anticipated a concrete epoxy for the floors, panda film for the ceiling, and mylar for the walls. I already have several hundred feet of 4' Mylar from my previous operation, otherwise I would use panda everywhere. Is panda film sufficient to prevent moisture contamination of the exposed joists and sub flooring above?

I am performing a test run for DYI epoxy coating by doing my garage first and will be having my basement floor tested for transpiration rates to confirm an epoxy floor is possible.
If you are building for the long haul. I'd suggest (money isn't the most important thing) ORCA GROW FILM. It's very thick it's all I've ever used in my basement. I can only compare it to grow tents and with said it's worth the money. It's easy to clean and should last years. Read up on it. I'm no professor so I can't say their claims are accurate but it makes sense to me. I have panda film on my floor and under it thick black plastic. Panda film is WEAK.
 

francy420

Well-Known Member
Yeah I use the Orca plastic too. I just use the term panda plastic as a blanket statement. But Orca I can get for like $10 for a 10' x 10' piece.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I'd approach this space completely differently! I'd also be pulling 6-8 lbs every month, so IDK if that's more than you want or what?
 
Top