BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
After being in others' threads, Figured I'd start my own.
Try not to duplicate posts.
General:
Volts X amps = watts ie: 120V x 3.3A = 396 watts
Watts / volts = amps ie: 450W / 120V = 3.75 amps
Typical US color code:
Black = hot (120VAC)
White = Neutral (zero volts)
Green/Bare = ground
Red = Traveler or second Hot
Traveler is used in 3-way switches
As a Second hot, it will be 120VAC 180degrees out of phase to the other Hot.
**Always verify what each wire does!! electrons are colorblind**
Typical outlet is connected to a 15amp breaker. Now, a typical breaker runs multiple outlets. Check what other outlets are being used.
You should only use 75-80% max of that 15amps So to be safe, only draw 11.25 amps from that breaker.
You can NOT just replace a breaker to get more amps to the outlet. You will need to run heavier gauge wire. The job of the breaker is to protect the wiring. Pull too much current and the insulation melts, then the conductors short out and a possible fire insures (and its inside the wall. ugly scene.)
Lights:
Watts is Watts. 400W worth of CFLs uses the same as 400W of MH/HPS (with ballast overhead in consideration) From an electrical savings vs light production, MUCH better off with the HPS/MH then the CFLs.
A typical inductive (magnetic) 400W ballast and bulb will pull 450W from the wall The ballast has over head. (the electrical savings claims of the digital are *only* on this ballast overhead. The bulb always pulls 400W)
You can not use a bulb of a different wattage in a ballast. The ballast and bulb have to match. There is a small exception. There are 430w bulbs that will work in a 400W ballast. These small changes are ok, but a 250 in a 400 is NOT ok.
Its been said (though I have never tried it) that you can use a MH bulb in a HPS ballast. But not the other way around. The difference between the 2 ballasts is the HPS has an igniter, while the MH does not. Its also been said (once again not verified by me) that you can add a switch to enable/disable the igniter to make the ballast a switchable ballast.
Wiring up a DIY ballast:
Read it. Can't help much here. Also, after all is said and done, its probably cheaper to just get a premade unit.
PC fan wiring:
I've seen this SO many times here. (I don't think they move enough air)
Biggest myth: Use a cellphone charger to run it.
I have *NEVER* seen a cellphone charger that put put 12VDC! (well maybe those old brick cellphones)
But just use a 12VDC (not 12VAC) wall-wart. Read the label. Most will have the positive on the center, but thats not written in stone! READ the wall wart.
Fan
RED = 12VDC
Black = Ground
Fan speed control.
AC motors do not like speed control, unless designed for it. The motors will hum if you use a speed control on a fan. It will also shorten its life. But you can try a ceiling fan speed control from Lowes or Home Cheapo . Also suggested is a router speed control from Harbor Freight.
Now, your standard 3 speed fan does not control the speed buy a voltage drop, but by 3 different angles on the field coils.
And why control the speed of a fan? Just spec it out right, and no need to slow it down.
(I like the S&P's. They have a 2 speed connection, are quiet and move good amount of air. I used the TD-150 at low speed cooling a 400W hood, never had a prob.)
Tools:
A Meter. Digital is standard (True RMS is NOT needed) $30 will get one good enough
This is $70, but is also an amp clamp
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Circuit Tracer - Every home owner should have one. Plug into an outlet then use the wand along the breaker panel to find the breaker that runs that outlet.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=6170-12704-61-532&lpage=none
Voltage indicator pen
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=218710-1781-ET6204&lpage=none
Watt meter: Good for a home energy audit
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=239794-48019-THP103
GFI/Outlet tester. Tests GFI and if outlet is wired correctly
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292761-12704-61-501&lpage=none
Hand tools:
Pliers
Screwdrivers
Wire Strippers
etc
Try not to duplicate posts.
BBB's Electrical FAQ
General:
Volts X amps = watts ie: 120V x 3.3A = 396 watts
Watts / volts = amps ie: 450W / 120V = 3.75 amps
Typical US color code:
Black = hot (120VAC)
White = Neutral (zero volts)
Green/Bare = ground
Red = Traveler or second Hot
Traveler is used in 3-way switches
As a Second hot, it will be 120VAC 180degrees out of phase to the other Hot.
**Always verify what each wire does!! electrons are colorblind**
Typical outlet is connected to a 15amp breaker. Now, a typical breaker runs multiple outlets. Check what other outlets are being used.
You should only use 75-80% max of that 15amps So to be safe, only draw 11.25 amps from that breaker.
You can NOT just replace a breaker to get more amps to the outlet. You will need to run heavier gauge wire. The job of the breaker is to protect the wiring. Pull too much current and the insulation melts, then the conductors short out and a possible fire insures (and its inside the wall. ugly scene.)
Lights:
Watts is Watts. 400W worth of CFLs uses the same as 400W of MH/HPS (with ballast overhead in consideration) From an electrical savings vs light production, MUCH better off with the HPS/MH then the CFLs.
A typical inductive (magnetic) 400W ballast and bulb will pull 450W from the wall The ballast has over head. (the electrical savings claims of the digital are *only* on this ballast overhead. The bulb always pulls 400W)
You can not use a bulb of a different wattage in a ballast. The ballast and bulb have to match. There is a small exception. There are 430w bulbs that will work in a 400W ballast. These small changes are ok, but a 250 in a 400 is NOT ok.
Its been said (though I have never tried it) that you can use a MH bulb in a HPS ballast. But not the other way around. The difference between the 2 ballasts is the HPS has an igniter, while the MH does not. Its also been said (once again not verified by me) that you can add a switch to enable/disable the igniter to make the ballast a switchable ballast.
Wiring up a DIY ballast:
Read it. Can't help much here. Also, after all is said and done, its probably cheaper to just get a premade unit.
PC fan wiring:
I've seen this SO many times here. (I don't think they move enough air)
Biggest myth: Use a cellphone charger to run it.
I have *NEVER* seen a cellphone charger that put put 12VDC! (well maybe those old brick cellphones)
But just use a 12VDC (not 12VAC) wall-wart. Read the label. Most will have the positive on the center, but thats not written in stone! READ the wall wart.
Fan
RED = 12VDC
Black = Ground
Fan speed control.
AC motors do not like speed control, unless designed for it. The motors will hum if you use a speed control on a fan. It will also shorten its life. But you can try a ceiling fan speed control from Lowes or Home Cheapo . Also suggested is a router speed control from Harbor Freight.
Now, your standard 3 speed fan does not control the speed buy a voltage drop, but by 3 different angles on the field coils.
And why control the speed of a fan? Just spec it out right, and no need to slow it down.
(I like the S&P's. They have a 2 speed connection, are quiet and move good amount of air. I used the TD-150 at low speed cooling a 400W hood, never had a prob.)
Tools:
A Meter. Digital is standard (True RMS is NOT needed) $30 will get one good enough
This is $70, but is also an amp clamp
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Circuit Tracer - Every home owner should have one. Plug into an outlet then use the wand along the breaker panel to find the breaker that runs that outlet.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=6170-12704-61-532&lpage=none
Voltage indicator pen
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=218710-1781-ET6204&lpage=none
Watt meter: Good for a home energy audit
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=239794-48019-THP103
GFI/Outlet tester. Tests GFI and if outlet is wired correctly
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292761-12704-61-501&lpage=none
Hand tools:
Pliers
Screwdrivers
Wire Strippers
etc